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Old November 25th, 2013, 02:37 PM   #1
wave_crusher
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Default DTC P1345- What causes this?

I recently had a newer engine (bought it from a member on here) put into my 96 chevy 1500. It was a guy I know that replaced an engine in a ford ranger for me that did the swap. I didn't have the ranger long after he did the swap but he seemed to do a good job. Long story, here goes:

I picked up my truck after the new motor was installed and I noticed that it was ticking, more than I thought it should be. It goes away after 5 or so minutes of running, but it does come back intermittently. It is not a knock, but more of a tick. The check engine light has been on, the guy said that it was on for him when he test drove it, then it went off once and came back one. It did that for me as well. It turned off after I started it then came back on about a minute later,and has not gone off since; both the same code, P1345. Google doesn't help much in determining what causes it, just says that it's a crank to cam correlation failure. I get the general idea of what that means.

The guy said that he was messing with the timing for a couple hours, because once the truck warms up the starter binds up, and he thought that the timing was off. It is the starter itself, and it has done that with both motors; once it cools down it starts fine. I did not know it at the time, but you can't adjust the actual timing on a 5.7L vortec, just the retard setting (?) or however it's called. It runs and drives just fine, but still knocks/ticks a lot when I first start it up. A lot more than just a cold engine that needs some oil pressure to build up. Every once in a while it seems like it's running rough but it will smooth out, never had it stall or actually knock. The computer in it is an aftermarket flashed one from Black Bear Customs, I decided to put the stock computer back in because I wanted to get that one re-flashed in case something was wrong in it. When I put the stock computer back it the engine ran extremely rough, like it was missing on 3-4 cylinders. I shut it off and put the aftermarket computer back in and it ran just fine.

According the google results, sometimes a P1345 code can be triggered by a loose distributor hold down bolt, bad plug wires or bad cap/rotor. The bolt is tight and it has new wires on it, and new cap/rotor.

What would be a likely cause of the P1345 code? The dist is off of the old motor, I believe it is the stock one, don't think it's ever been changed. It has a new oil pump. Could the dist be physically turned to far one way since the guy was messing with the timing (I don't know if he was using a scanner or not, which is how it's supposed to be done), which is causing the correlation fault but the aftermarket computer is able to compensate for it when a stock computer isn't able to? Or am I going way to far into thinking?
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Old November 25th, 2013, 03:48 PM   #2
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I would check the distributor with a scanner, sound like it was not set up correctly. I have been told that it would run like you described if the distributor was not properly dropped in using a scanner - my understanding is there is a narrow range for it to work in and if not lined up in that range, it does some funky stuff! I have not had to do this, but understand it is not difficule if you have a scanner.
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Old November 25th, 2013, 04:16 PM   #3
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not all scanners have the option, the old solus by snap on, u actually go through code diagnostics, its 0+-2 degrees. good luck..
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Old November 25th, 2013, 04:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkassie View Post
not all scanners have the option, the old solus by snap on, u actually go through code diagnostics, its 0+-2 degrees. good luck..
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I would check the distributor with a scanner, sound like it was not set up correctly. I have been told that it would run like you described if the distributor was not properly dropped in using a scanner - my understanding is there is a narrow range for it to work in and if not lined up in that range, it does some funky stuff! I have not had to do this, but understand it is not difficule if you have a scanner.
So basically, I should take it to a dealer to make sure it's correct and within the 0 +/- 2 degrees?
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Old November 25th, 2013, 05:10 PM   #5
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No don't take it to the dealer.
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Old November 25th, 2013, 05:13 PM   #6
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No don't take it to the dealer.
By dealer I mean auto repair shop. I never go to the dealership
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Old November 25th, 2013, 05:27 PM   #7
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Yeah, take it somewhere and have them set the dist. with the scanner. The ticking noise sounds like a lifter with some dirt in it, might work it's way out or you may end up needing a set of lifters or at least the noisy one.
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Old November 26th, 2013, 10:57 AM   #8
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Yesterday I drove it to work, unusual since i've been driving it as little as possible so I don't make a problem worse; I started it up and it did the same thing, It acted like it was only running on 4 or 5 cylinders, spitted sputtered then even out after about 10 seconds and idled perfect. After it doing that i'm almost sure that it is the timing, seems like it's the only thing it can be.

For the ticking/knocking/noise, would a worn dist gear cause it, then go away once it's warmed up?

Also, what do I tell the shop I want them to do? I don't want them to "diagnose" the DTC since i'm pretty sure I know what is causing it, so do I just tell them I want them to set the timing and retard?
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Old November 26th, 2013, 12:15 PM   #9
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I would ask them to check the distributor timing, if they ask you can tell them someone thought they could change the timing like it was a regular distributor - they thought they were doing you a favor!

As for the tick, if it goes away once warmed up that would be an indication of lifters, they tick when there is "play". All it takes is a tiny dirt particle to get stuck in the hole on the side and the lifter will loose function (colapse). Replacement lifters are not expensive and since they are roller, do not require break-in like a flat lifter.
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Old November 26th, 2013, 02:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
I would ask them to check the distributor timing, if they ask you can tell them someone thought they could change the timing like it was a regular distributor - they thought they were doing you a favor!

As for the tick, if it goes away once warmed up that would be an indication of lifters, they tick when there is "play". All it takes is a tiny dirt particle to get stuck in the hole on the side and the lifter will loose function (colapse). Replacement lifters are not expensive and since they are roller, do not require break-in like a flat lifter.
Thanks for the info
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Old January 10th, 2014, 08:14 AM   #11
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Update: It was the distributor timing, I don't know what it was at exactly yet. The mechanic said it was way off. And I had an exhaust leak on the new headers I installed; learned to never use header gaskets; use manifold gaskets instead

I will be replacing the lifters as well
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