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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:03 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by ntaylor44 View Post
I have this sidearm http://www.ebay.com/itm/38-Double-Wa...item257fd34cd9

All of the central boiler diagrams show a third port on top of the water heater. Mine didn't have that so I went into the relief valve port on the side. I flushed the water heater good when I had everything apart. I also have a drain between the sidearm and where it goes back into the tank so I can purge any air that may be in there.

The central boiler doesn't have a coil in it. I am pumping the boiler water into the house through my sidearm then to a coil in the furnace and back out to the stove. The sidearm is hot enough to where you will get burned if you leave your hand on it. It just isn't transferring the heat to the domestic water.

I see how it works now. I am not much help with that style set up as I dint mess with central boilers.
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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #162
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Can you post a pic of the drain you have for bleeding air?
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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:48 PM   #163
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I will when I get a chance. It is just a T in the line with a boiler drain on it
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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:52 PM   #164
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I am not familiar with the stainless steel one that you have, I am using the copper one and have no problem with hot water. My water is so hot that we have to be careful not to get scalded, even with the cold water mixing valve in the system. Here are a couple of pics of my hook up. Mine is hooked up from the bottom drain to the top vent valve outlet.
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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:58 PM   #165
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Mine is basically the same as the pics above. Except my top T is sideways and the sidearm has a 90lot going into it.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 06:49 AM   #166
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I am trying to make a final decision on brand of boiler. Does anyone have a stainless steel boiler like a Heatmor or Hawken? How has the reliability been?

I am trying to decide between the following units, all of which would be the largest residential units they make (advertised around 10K sq feet)
Hawken http://hawkenenergy.com/products/furnaces/HE-2100.php
Central http://www.centralboiler.com/models.php
Synergy http://synergy-boiler.com/products/model100
Heatmor http://www.heatmor.com/residential-models.php
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Last edited by Bones; November 5th, 2013 at 06:54 AM.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:17 AM   #167
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[QUOTE=Bones;3541940]I am trying to make a final decision on brand of boiler. Does anyone have a stainless steel boiler like a Heatmor or Hawken? How has the reliability been?/QUOTE]


The website with everything you need to know before making a decision for an outdoor wood burning "boiler" is:

http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/

You will see reviews on all major brands and a few others.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:36 AM   #168
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The website with everything you need to know before making a decision for an outdoor wood burning "boiler" is:

http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/

You will see reviews on all major brands and a few others.
yup, I have been all over that board lately too. Not much info on synergy there, and everyone either loves or hates their stove for pretty much every brand. shocker.

I am leaning toward going mild steel just so I can repair it if ever required.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:36 AM   #169
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I went with Central Boiler because of the name, people I talked to that had them, and because the dealer is 3 miles from my work.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:42 AM   #170
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I am leaning toward going mild steel just so I can repair it if ever required.
This was going to be my suggestion.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:47 AM   #171
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I would just go with any name brand, I really like the forced air draft not sure if central boiler does that.

I am finishing up 3 more that I just built. they hold 165 gallons of water and have forced air draft doors.

Here is a pic prior to building there house's( angle iron frame with pole barn siding and roof.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:48 AM   #172
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I have a Hawkins he2100 been working great so far. No complaints what so ever, it was bar far the easiest most complete install kit ive ever seen or gotten from a boiler dealer. (Helped install a few centrals)
I had 1or 2 runs to the hardware store to get supplies and that was it.
So far it has been great on wood consumption, im heating 1200 ft of house and in floor heat in a 1300 square foot barn, hot water in the barn and house. ..
Love it compared to my indoor wood furnace, but not much to compare it to...never had any other boilers heating my home personally.

That info isn't worth much, but figured it may help with something.
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sended frum dis stoopid fone
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Old November 5th, 2013, 07:51 AM   #173
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Central has a optional forced air draft. I have no problem without it.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 06:36 PM   #174
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^^^ I have a friend with one of the forced air units and he has had nothing but trouble with it. Hard to clean the creosote in the spring, cracking tubes and other stuff. His is an older unit though and they supposedly have made improvements to them so the newer ones might be OK. I to love my 5036 non forced air unit.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 06:41 PM   #175
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Forced draft is a waste, there is no need for it, you do not save wood using forced draft, a d when it has problems, your boiler has problems...
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Old November 5th, 2013, 09:23 PM   #176
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Forced draft is a waste, there is no need for it, you do not save wood using forced draft, a d when it has problems, your boiler has problems...
You do understand that if you're forced draft fan died the boiler would work exactly the same as one without. how does that create problems ?
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Old November 5th, 2013, 09:53 PM   #177
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Forced draft is a waste, there is no need for it, you do not save wood using forced draft, a d when it has problems, your boiler has problems...
Problem is that I believe the Gov. is going to make them mandatory.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 10:00 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
I am trying to make a final decision on brand of boiler. Does anyone have a stainless steel boiler like a Heatmor or Hawken? How has the reliability been?

I am trying to decide between the following units, all of which would be the largest residential units they make (advertised around 10K sq feet)
Hawken http://hawkenenergy.com/products/furnaces/HE-2100.php
Central http://www.centralboiler.com/models.php
Synergy http://synergy-boiler.com/products/model100
Heatmor http://www.heatmor.com/residential-models.php
We have a lot of hardy stoves in our area as we have a dealer close. The stainless steel seems to junk out long before any others. Central is another one I (when working a side job for a boiler company as in real boilers) replaced many fire boxes in. My GFs dad bought a shaver last year and when I go with a boiler it will be theirs. It's a very simple design and all parts can be bought local as they don't use anything special. He went with the 1/2" firebox upgrade which I would tell anyone to get. The fit and finish on the metal skin was ok at best but with some tweaking it looks fine. He just finished build a damper on the stack which IMO they all need to slow the burn down. Being that they build the thickest fire box available and don't use computer boards and such that are special order it seems like a clear winner to me.

http://www.shaver-woodfurnace.com/
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Old November 6th, 2013, 07:17 AM   #179
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The boiler I have is the one hosejockey built last year. I like some of the tweaks he made to this years models. The forced draft in mine works pretty well, if the fan breaks I can easily get a new one. If the solenoid for the draft dor breaks I can easily get a new one, and the parts are pretty well clear of any creosote issues.

I would purchase the simplist version I could find (Which I pretty much did). There is no reason I could not extremely easily repair my wood burner with the simple fabrication tools most jeep dudes already own (torch, grinder, welder, etc).

So far she is working well. I'll report back when its -10*
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Old November 6th, 2013, 07:34 AM   #180
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interesting list of woodt types and BTUs.

http://www.nextlevelsolutionz.com/wood_species_BTUs.htm
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