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Old September 27th, 2013, 10:45 PM   #1
howell_jeep
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Default Pole Barns; help me do some homework on them

I'm thinking of putting up a pole barn building to store all my shit.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of building it 12' or 14' high instead of 10'?

Metal or shingle roof? I don't understand why metal roof on barns are cheaper than shingles, but the opposite is true for a house roof. Do they use thinner/cheaper metal on barns? Is it true that insurance companies give discounts for metal roofs?

What size? I know, the bigger the better, but what configuration works best? Narrow or wide? 24'x50' or 30x40 for example?

T1-11 or vinyl siding? Is it just difference in looks?

Can a pole barn be put over existing concrete pad (with footing outside the pad)?

Anything else I should be asking about?

Finally, anyone use Chelsea Lumber for their pole barns?

thanks
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Old September 27th, 2013, 11:58 PM   #2
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I'm thinking of putting up a pole barn building to store all my shit.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of building it 12' or 14' high instead of 10'? It would be taller inside, more room for taller doors and a hoist.

Metal or shingle roof? I don't understand why metal roof on barns are cheaper than shingles, but the opposite is true for a house roof. Do they use thinner/cheaper metal on barns? Is it true that insurance companies give discounts for metal roofs?In many cases a steel roof on a pole barn gets you trusses on 4' centers and a shingle roof gets you 2' center.

What size? I know, the bigger the better, but what configuration works best? Narrow or wide? 24'x50' or 30x40 for example?

T1-11 or vinyl siding? Is it just difference in looks?

Can a pole barn be put over existing concrete pad (with footing outside the pad)?

Anything else I should be asking about?

Finally, anyone use Chelsea Lumber for their pole barns?

thanks
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Old September 28th, 2013, 07:57 AM   #3
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14 ft walls and door allow the cement truck to drive inside if you can't get the floor done before the siding goes on. also allows for loft giving you more storage. then you will have nice high walls to add on a lean to when you decide its to small.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 08:09 AM   #4
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My original plan was for a 30x40x14H. For pretty much the same price I was able to go to 30x60x12H. Glad I did. Shingled roof T1-11 siding
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Old September 28th, 2013, 08:52 AM   #5
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Metal roofs can have ice an snow slide off and can damage things / hurt you.
Shingles and metal siding are what I went with but I went 10 high would go 12-14 if I got a do over.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 08:59 AM   #6
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I used Chelsea Lumber the experience was great. I also used I&I one of their contractors. mine is 30x48x10, my biggest mistake was not to go at least 12' tall, no chance for a hoist inside to fully lift a car. The best thing about using Chelsea Lumbers builder with their package is when there is some bad pieces of lumber or metal he was on the phone with them and they had new pieces out there the same day. I have a shingle roof looks great but I'm on my second one. My next barn will probably be a metal roof, and taller, and way bigger. I had two gravel trains of sand put down before the concrete was poured and have yet to have a crack in my floor. It ( the sand ) is at least 24" in the front and 36" in back. it also raised my barn so there is no leakage of water into it. Hope this helps you.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:00 AM   #7
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A metal roof done cheaply is 4 Ft OC trusses and some 2x4s. A shingle roof needs 2 Ft centers and a plywood deck. FWIW I did metal roof over a plywood deck with 2 Ft on center trusses.

I wanted 30 * 40 but ended up with 30 * 48. My thought is build the biggest building you can, then worry about interior finishing.

12 Ft ceilings work well for me. The taller it is the more industrial/agricultural it looks. May or may not be an issue with you. I built a loft at 8 Ft over my office and tool area which gives a ton of space.

In theory I think you could build around an existing pad, but I wouldn't want to unless its just a storage barn.

If its just storage, then I would not insulate, just basic wiring and as many roll up doors as possible on the long wall.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:08 AM   #8
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Here is mine. The office and tool area is on the left, then some free space, the two vehicle bays and the part storage on the right side. Works well, I keep my Jimmy, CJ7, and Kubota out there and have lots of room to work.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 10:19 AM   #9
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Here is mine. The office and tool area is on the left, then some free space, the two vehicle bays and the part storage on the right side. Works well, I keep my Jimmy, CJ7, and Kubota out there and have lots of room to work.
That turned out awesome
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Old September 28th, 2013, 10:58 AM   #10
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Just remember there are only 2 sizes of barn

1- too fawking small
2- not fawking big enough.

I put mine up a couple years ago and went with shingled roof and vinel siding. At te time it was the cheapest way to go. I'm 40x60 with 17.6' walls (supposed to be 16' but the builder maxed out my poles) if you go with a 16 foot tall wall you can put a loft in it and have 7' top and bottom of the loft. That way you don't have to duck wile in the loft or under it.

Also with a taller wall like said above the concrete truck can drive in when pouring the floor and you can store anything that is legal to go down the road (camper, motorhome, boat........)
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Old September 28th, 2013, 11:28 AM   #11
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If you plan on finishing it (drywall) then consider conventional build with rat walls and 3-5 courses of concrete block. Concrete block doesn't catch on fire from stray sparks. Running wire, insulating, and drywalling a pole building sucks.

Consider scissor trusses. It helps prevent you from storing crap up there before you go to insulate and put up drywall.

2' overhangs and framing for high-mounted windows (at least 6' from the ground) is a must. You'd be surprised how much light crappy $80 Menards windows let in.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 12:41 PM   #12
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If you ever plan on buying an RV (even after retirement) I would go with 12' or 14'. Nothing is worse than buying a brand new RV and it doesnt fit in your barn because the AC on the roof is too tall for the door (many of my dads customers have had this problem lol)
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Old September 28th, 2013, 01:44 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the great info, and keep it coming!

Mostly I need it for storage. I was thinking of maybe close off a portion of the barn for a work area where I could fit a car/truck to work on, and only insulate this place and have it heated and air conditioned.

Are you using windows mainly for the look or also for lighting? How many windows? Haggar, do you have only that one window in the front?

And thanks for the info on Chelsea Lumber, anyone else had experience with them?

How long does it take to put it up? Would someone be able to build it before this winter?
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Old September 28th, 2013, 05:33 PM   #14
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Check out GarageJournal.com. Insane info there if you are looking for an additional source of knowledge.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 06:00 PM   #15
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X 100 on the taller walls/door.
The loft space is very valuable storage.........and too short for "whatever" in the future makes a short barn useless.
I went with 14' walls and scissors trusses giving me 18' clear height in the center 10 feet.
The time I erected a crane to pull the boat motors, I was using every inch of that 18' in order to lift the motors over the boats transom.

Think about in floor hot water heat!!! I wish that I had.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 06:59 PM   #16
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Mine came with my house, best decision ever!
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howell_jeep View Post
Thanks for all the great info, and keep it coming!

Mostly I need it for storage. I was thinking of maybe close off a portion of the barn for a work area where I could fit a car/truck to work on, and only insulate this place and have it heated and air conditioned.

Are you using windows mainly for the look or also for lighting? How many windows? Haggar, do you have only that one window in the front?

And thanks for the info on Chelsea Lumber, anyone else had experience with them?

How long does it take to put it up? Would someone be able to build it before this winter?
Yes, I just have the one window, since I have stuff along many of the walls, and I didn't want windows in the back inviting people to break in. But some high mounted ones might have been nice.

I paid to have mine built, which is rare for me but worth it. I preprepped the site got it close to level and removed all the topsoil. Had to backhoe out a couple giant stumps. The one day for sand and leveling. One day start to finish to build the entire building. Day two was concrete. Then day three did the siding and day four to do the doors. I did my own electrical later on, but I did run the conduit and run pipe stubs for gas, electric, water, sewer, and footings for a hoist.
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:23 PM   #18
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I have one 30x40 stick built with 12 foot walls and a 30x40 pole barn with 12 foot walls and need more room!
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonka toy View Post
Also with a taller wall like said above the concrete truck can drive in when pouring the floor
^^ I like your thinking! I hate renting buggies!

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If you plan on finishing it (drywall) then consider conventional build with rat walls and 3-5 courses of concrete block. Concrete block doesn't catch on fire from stray sparks. Running wire, insulating, and drywalling a pole building sucks.
^^ This is good too!

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Think about in floor hot water heat!!! I wish that I had.
In floor heat is AWESOME when working on shit in the winter.. Unless you have a lift....
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Old September 28th, 2013, 09:51 PM   #20
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Hoist ftw
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