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Old September 27th, 2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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Default DIY Control arms

I am long over due for control arms, at least lowers. I plan on making them myself, or at least have them made. I can get DOM tubing for pretty much at cost so I am really just in need of rod ends. That is where I am having a problem. I don't know if I want to do Johnny joints, bushings, or whatever else I could do. I have been reading up on other forums and I guess I haven't really found my answer.

So my question is, what size DOM tubing would be good for LCA's, what kind of rod ends will be my best option, and can I used factory CA mounts (frame/axle) or would I need new ones?

This Jeep will be my daily driver for about another year, at least just to get me through the winter so I can park my truck. I won't be doing any hard wheeling until I build one tons and such. So for the most part, it will see street use and mild trails.

I read that for a DD, it is good to run a JJ and a bushing on each CA. I also read that JJ's can wear out (or maybe it was heims) if used on CA's on a DD. I guess the road wear really wears them out. I like that you can rebuild JJ's, but I don't know who to get them from if that's what I end up going with. I want to do this right, and be able to use my rod ends again when I finally stretch the Jeep so all I would have to get is tubing.

My Jeep still has the stock CA's and the stock frame/axle mounts. The arms are bent up to hell, and I think the bushings are pretty much done for. Can I use the stock mounts on both frame and axle for JJ's/heims/bushings? I know the factory pressed mounts are junk, but like I said this will only be a DD through this winter so I'm not worried about them. No more hard wheeling until I get big boy axles.

That is all I can think of for now. I just want to be pointed in the right direction so I do this right the first time. Thanks for any and all help. It's greatly appreciated!
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Old September 27th, 2013, 12:58 PM   #2
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Let me know I will help you
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Old September 27th, 2013, 01:13 PM   #3
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Im running 2x.250 DOM 2X.375 is availible. For what you need 1.75x.120 would be more than enough.. I Have a few diffrent end joints on my jeep, but I like the johhny joints the best. you can get them to fit where a stock jeep bushing was at.

For what you are doing somthing like this would be good.. Weld on johhny joints on one end, threaded ones on the other. OR you could just make them weld on both ends.

http://www.4wd.com/Fabrication-Tools...n=CURCE-9110P#
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Old September 27th, 2013, 01:24 PM   #4
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1.75 -.313 wall ftw
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Old September 27th, 2013, 01:44 PM   #5
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IMO I would weld a bushing on at least one end to allow some absorption into the bushing itself... dampening effect.
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Old September 27th, 2013, 01:52 PM   #6
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I was thinking about going with 2"x.25" wall DOM. Seems pretty common for CA's. I would rather have a little more strength just to be safe. I would think though that 1.75"x.120" would work. Is there a noticeable strength difference in the two of those sizes?

I am thinking JJ's on at least one end. Would I benefit to have an adjustable one rather than a weld on one? How about if I had a JJ on one end, and an adjustable bushing on the other?

Would I want the bushing on the frame or axle? I would think axle because it's closer to the source of wear and tear, but maybe I'm wrong...
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:00 PM   #7
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IMO I would never use .120 wall for a lower if you ever plan on off roading it
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:03 PM   #8
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Get the correct id for the size thread you will use. No welding, just tap it.
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:03 PM   #9
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I plan on doing mild stuff, nothing like your rock course or any of the huge trails at R&V, but it may happen. So I'm better off using .25" wall?
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GearDrive View Post
Get the correct id for the size thread you will use. No welding, just tap it.
I was thinking about doing that, or weld in bungs.
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:22 PM   #11
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Min .250 wall
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:27 PM   #12
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solid bar minimum
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8PTBUCK View Post
I was thinking about going with 2"x.25" wall DOM. Seems pretty common for CA's. I would rather have a little more strength just to be safe. I would think though that 1.75"x.120" would work. Is there a noticeable strength difference in the two of those sizes?

I am thinking JJ's on at least one end. Would I benefit to have an adjustable one rather than a weld on one? How about if I had a JJ on one end, and an adjustable bushing on the other?

Would I want the bushing on the frame or axle? I would think axle because it's closer to the source of wear and tear, but maybe I'm wrong...
I would say frame because it will make the ride nicer/less noisy if the johnny joint ever got some slop in it.
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lousypirate View Post
solid bar minimum
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Old September 27th, 2013, 02:53 PM   #15
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1.75 x .281 wall = 1.188 ID.
Tap size for 1.25-12 = 1.172.
.008/side big won't effect strength enough to matter.
Hiems and JJ's usually have 3" of thread or more.
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Old September 30th, 2013, 07:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GearDrive View Post
1.75 x .281 wall = 1.188 ID.
Tap size for 1.25-12 = 1.172.
.008/side big won't effect strength enough to matter.
Hiems and JJ's usually have 3" of thread or more.
Can you explain this to me a little better? What's the .008 come from?
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Old September 30th, 2013, 08:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8PTBUCK View Post
Can you explain this to me a little better? What's the .008 come from?
the oversize of the hole for the thread engagement.
http://www.balax.com/catalog/technic...ge-calculation

he is referring to the standard drill size for that particular tap, versus the bore size of the DOM. The bolt will have less thread engagement because the hole is already blown out larger than the smallest diameter for the most thread engagement. the .008" per side is considered negligible for that large of a thread.
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Old October 4th, 2013, 06:53 AM   #18
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I built mine using 2"x.250" wall DOM with JJ at each end. I am redoing my rear 3 link this winter to a DT4, and will be using hex bungs this time to make tightening easier. I also do one RH and one LH thread on each arm to make them adjustable on the vehicle.
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Old October 7th, 2013, 09:27 AM   #19
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I just grabbed some 2x2x.250 square tube off the rack at work. Then I machined my weldable bungs from two pieces of 2x2x3 CRS ground to size. Still haven't got around to welding stuff up, but my buddy runs the sqaure tube long arms he made on d60's and 40's. it holds up awsome.
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Old February 17th, 2014, 12:54 PM   #20
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Okay bump because I am planning on doing this here within the next month or two (or three) and am still retarded.

I am going to go with 2"x.25" wall - 1.5" tube ID.

I'm probably going to do JJ at the axle end, and then some kind of bushing at the frame end.

Being a DD, is it worth doing JJ at the frame end? I don't mind a somewhat bad ride as far as feeling road vibes/bumps. I just want it to be able to have somewhat decent flex.

Do I need to do uppers with 4" of lift? Seems like it's mainly my lowers that are bad and should be replaced.

I am going to do weld in bungs. I feel that would be easiest. I don't know anybody that can tap the end of a solid tube for me, but I know people that can weld.

I will have the lowers bent some to match most aftermarket arms. The bend in the arm helps the arm to NOT get bound up at the axle mount, and they help decrease the angles a bit and help smooth out the ride?

Can somebody recommend a good bushing to use at the frame end, unless running JJ's at both ends will be okay?

If I order all the parts, is there anybody on here that can help me do this? I really want to learn this, but need somebody to teach me. I would like to do it right the first time and know a lot of you know this stuff a lot more than me. I just need more hands on experience... and the tools!

Thanks a lot guys. Appreciate all the replies and advice to this.
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