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Old September 26th, 2013, 01:16 PM   #261
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If the track bar is straight then I would use rod ends. If you have to bend it around the pig, then you will be stuck with a bushing on one end.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 01:41 PM   #262
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Use the TRE tapered studs instead of a straight hole so you can tighten the "slop" out of it.
http://www.bcbroncos.com/steeringlinkage.html
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Old September 26th, 2013, 06:44 PM   #263
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If the track bar is straight then I would use rod ends. If you have to bend it around the pig, then you will be stuck with a bushing on one end.
Yeah I was thinking about that and kinda figured the bushing would be good to help keep it from twisting. I'll definitely have the track bar bent around the pig.

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Use the TRE tapered studs instead of a straight hole so you can tighten the "slop" out of it.
http://www.bcbroncos.com/steeringlinkage.html
Ummm I don't get it? I'm gonna be using TREs.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 08:16 PM   #264
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Yeah I was thinking about that and kinda figured the bushing would be good to help keep it from twisting. I'll definitely have the track bar bent around the pig.


Ummm I don't get it? I'm gonna be using TREs.
Yeah, oops.
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Old November 20th, 2013, 11:05 PM   #265
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I had to take a brief hiatus from this to return some favors for a buddy(simplemanlance on here) and do some fabrication on is rig.

I built a full cage off the factory section:

I wanted to angle the front spreaders outward, but the stock seats sit so high there's no way to do it without bashing your head.





Frame tie-ins(and MebAlls):






And tube fenders with flares:

(they're pretty damn overbuilt, but were my first set so I learned a few things)






And now I'm back to work on my own rig. Got the steering box position finalized, steering linkages in place, and got the track bar and mounts built:





Clearance for the frame end was a bitch. It was tough to get proper geometry and as much uptravel as I wanted. I originally wanted 7" of uptravel running 4.5" lift, 1 tons, 40s, and 14" coilovers, but at this height I don't think I'll manage more than 5". There are limitation between the track bar and axle, track bar and fan, brackets and axle, brackets and steering, axle and motor, etc. It just ain't gonna happen, I've got it dialed in as good as it's gonna get. I'm not too upset, that's still pretty damn low and still with good travel. If I want more I can always lift it another inch or two for stuff like dune running, but I doubt I'll need to.
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Old November 21st, 2013, 06:46 AM   #266
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Looking good Sean..... Even seen it with my own eye balls. I may have to steal a few ideas off of Lance's Cage when I do mine :) Especially the tie-ins to the frame.

Damn.... If you didn't have to do Lances..... This thing would MAYBE be done! lol. (I know you owed him, just sayin)
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Old November 21st, 2013, 07:26 AM   #267
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Nice work!
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Old November 21st, 2013, 07:32 AM   #268
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Looking good Sean..... Even seen it with my own eye balls. I may have to steal a few ideas off of Lance's Cage when I do mine :) Especially the tie-ins to the frame.

Damn.... If you didn't have to do Lances..... This thing would MAYBE be done! lol. (I know you owed him, just sayin)
Haha it wouldn't be done, but definitely further along. When you get ready for the cage lemme know, I threw some tricks in there that I didn't bother posting here.
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Old November 21st, 2013, 09:06 AM   #269
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Hey! You owe me a favor?! Ah, worth a shot I guess.

Really like what you did with the cage - especially over the back seat - very neat!
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Old November 21st, 2013, 09:09 AM   #270
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[/URL]
I wanted to angle the front spreaders outward, but the stock seats sit so high there's no way to do it without bashing your head.
If you kick a compound angle you can get up around without head bashing but it really changes the look. Softtop fits fine.
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Old November 21st, 2013, 09:12 AM   #271
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If you kick a compound angle you can get up around without head bashing but it really changes the look.
I looked into ideas like that but felt like it'd still be uncomfortably close under hard braking or getting pitched forward off a big bump. This was the style he originally wanted anyway, I had just hoped to spice it up a bit like I did in back.
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Old November 21st, 2013, 09:14 AM   #272
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I looked into ideas like that but felt like it'd still be uncomfortably close under hard braking or getting pitched forward off a big bump. This was the style he originally wanted anyway, I had just hoped to spice it up a bit like I did in back.
I can vouch for it not being an issue for someone 6' tall............because I've put it through all of those conditions
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Old December 18th, 2013, 12:46 PM   #273
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Boring updates, but progress is progress. I'm trying really hard to get this done this spring so I need to keep moving forward....preferably faster.

Had to cut the bottom of the frame for the LCAs to clear:

I'll have to do the same in the rear too. Both will be getting boxed back in obviously.

Lots of dirt in the frame....no wonder they rust from the inside out. And this frame is in nice shape, I can't imagine how nasty a "bad" one is.


Added bracing to the top to reinforce after removing material from the bottom:


Then I removed the mock-up motor and trans and brought the original powertrain home(had it stored in my parents' garage). I did some basic cleanup to remove some of the 231k miles of crud:

Went ahead and rebuilt the t-case with new chain and SYE. Was gonna replace the shift pads, but they looked brand new. Looks like someone else may have rebuilt it before I got it.

Built new frame side motor mounts(still need to finish weld and box them in). Had to make new ones to begin with because the frame was originally for a 4 cylinder, and built them to center the engine rather than offsetting it like it's supposed to be. While correcting the offset I also raised them 1.25" so I could get a flat belly and gain clearance between the front truss and harmonic balancer. Had to do some massaging of the trans tunnel/firewall flange, but it fits. When I built the new beefy body mounts I raised them 1" in preparation for the engine lift too.


Motor mounts and trans mounts are all poly bushings. Hopefully between those and the hardmounted cage the NVH will be tolerable.
Trans mount:

There are gussets from the bushing sleeve to bracket, kinda looks like booger welds in the pic though.

Tube crossmember:

It's just 1.75" x .120" wall right now, I might sleeve it with 1.5" for more strength. Mounting bolts are 1/2" run through tube sleeves I welded into the frame

Flat belly accomplished!

The skid will be 3/16" plate with lots of angle iron bracing. I've got an idea for making it completely smooth with no exposed bolt heads whatsoever. I think I've got a pretty good setup to add strength to it....I got the trans crossmember, t-case, and parts of the trans low enough that they'll be very close to the skid. I plan to run rubber pads between them and the skid as isolaters, will still allowing those parts to brace and add more rigidity to the skid to reduce bending and deflection.
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Old December 18th, 2013, 12:54 PM   #274
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Looks good Sean - Keep up the good work!
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Old December 18th, 2013, 01:57 PM   #275
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Lots of dirt in the frame....no wonder they rust from the inside out. And this frame is in nice shape, I can't imagine how nasty a "bad" one is.
You can just look at my 97 TJ to find that out.... Oh wait... theres nothing left

Good updates, hope to wheel with you soon!
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Old December 18th, 2013, 02:19 PM   #276
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You can just look at my 97 TJ to find that out.... Oh wait... theres nothing left

Good updates, hope to wheel with you soon!
You should name your project "Jenny Craig". It's definitely on the active weight loss plan.
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Old December 18th, 2013, 02:28 PM   #277
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in the process of a flatbelly on my yj right now and just wondering why you used the bushing in the center as opposed to at the frame rails? looks like more work the way you did it and im sure you have a good reason, especially before i finish mine.
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Old December 18th, 2013, 02:29 PM   #278
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You should name your project "Jenny Craig". It's definitely on the active weight loss plan.
I would, but im really going the other route.... Adding weight with a new frame for more strength .
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Old December 18th, 2013, 02:50 PM   #279
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Damn nice work as always.

Appreciate the pics of the stock cape modifications. I wanna do some similar stuff to mine....someday.
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Old December 18th, 2013, 02:51 PM   #280
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in the process of a flatbelly on my yj right now and just wondering why you used the bushing in the center as opposed to at the frame rails? looks like more work the way you did it and im sure you have a good reason, especially before i finish mine.
Because the bushings at the frame put a lot more stress on the transmission case. It's easier and works for plenty of people, but others have broken the trans by doing so. Probably not a big deal just running a 4.0L, but might as well do it right.

I look at it this way: a single point forms a point. 2 points form a line. 3 points form a plane. 4 points is overconstrained. The motor mount bushings handle the side to side twisting load, the trans mount basically allows the side to side twist but stabilizes the combo front to rear. Adding a fixed point at the trans and moving the bushings outward is helping prevent the twist even more, and at a different axis. This will put more stress on the trans mount and case because they're fighting the torsional load now too. Like I said, probably a non-issue with a mild engine. Hell, it may even have been more helpful to reduce stress on the motor mounts because I've heard of those breaking on 4.0s before. I'm gonna look into adding some bracing to the factory mounts to spread the load on the block a little.
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