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Old July 3rd, 2013, 11:24 PM   #1
wave_crusher
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1500 Silverado [Insert cool sounding name here]

I've never posted a build about my truck, wasn't much of a build to start out with. Just some bolt-ons look cool parts and exhaust. I got it as a 96 Silverado K1500, it was a trade in at a local GMC dealer. 5.7L Vortec, 4L60E. 3.73s.

Here's the day I brought it home back in 2008 146k

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Really rust free when I got it, very clean underneath. The first things I added were a nice heavy-ish grille guard, and I swapped the 285s from my 91 over along with the chrome wheels.

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Both my 1st truck 1991 K1500 and the new 1996 K1500

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The bed had some kind of paint run/acid drip or something that caused little circles in the side of the bed. I found a color matching bed in Twin Lake for $100 so I decided to take the time to blast the frame and coat it in POR-15 plus a cover coat of black rattle can

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The truck pretty much stayed like that for a few years; then I decided that I was going to lift it for a trip to silver lake. I've never liked body lifts but I got a deal on a complete one so I said WTH. Got a set of 35x12.5x15 loaners from chevy_4x4_trucks to run

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Not a whole load cosmetic wise changed over the course of the last year or so. The axle still have 3.73s in them unfortunately, but the transmission was rebuilt with a shift kit in 2009, the torsion bars were replaced with 3/4 ton bars out of a 1999 2500 since I decided it was cool to crank them up. All the stock bilstiens were replaced with Mono-tube nitro (Monroe or something up front) and Monroe coil-overs in the back, the frame was all completely blasted and painted in 2011. Though it really started to rot out after winter 2011/2012 on the rocker panels. The wheel wells are still solid surprisingly. The springs have a add a leaf for towing, that along with the coil overs gave it the extra lift in the rear so as to not look funny with the cranked torsion bars. Plus it helps it tow our tractor a lot smoother.

This is how it sits now. the only real difference is the rocker panels were half-ass fixed with sheet metal and body glue plus a lot of body filler. Definitly was not my best idea, but I guess it looks better than a rust hole and it now sits on 315/70-R17 BFG A/T on 17x9 American Racning alloys. I had the bfgs for about 4 years just sitting waiting for a deal on some 17s; I love how it looks vs. the 35x12.5x15s. I also had a custom tuned PCM made for it that worked awesome at the dunes. Kicked the hell out of the handheld superchips I was using.

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That last pic was the 1st (and probably last for this year) trip to silver lake in late april. And when I say how it sits now, I mean literally. I blew the motor about a week after silver lake; oil pump went out while I was driving down the freeway, kinda my own fault for driving it with a knock but oh well.

Currently it is being torn down to rebuilt a few things. The body lift and 1/2 suspension lift is staying but I am redoing the rear bumper, trailer hitch, and I am planning on making a custom off-road bumper for the front. I want to take the top part of the grille guard and add it to some nice thick c-channel (or whatever, I really haven't planned it out, but decided I want a real bumper) with an integrated winch mount and good durable tow points.

I am in the process of getting a new motor for it that will have some goodies added such as the energy cam out of the current one, long tubes, edelbrock performer intake, electric water pump, custom (redneck-a-fied) air intake, along with all new gaskets and chain. I just have to actually pay off the rest of the motor first. Working with what I do, living bills come first (or at least the g/f says)
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Old July 3rd, 2013, 11:32 PM   #2
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Good engine and off-road bumpers aside. I really don't see this doing any hard off-roading. Pretty much just hitting the sand dunes and the occasional buddies house for mud; I don't like cleaning mud and I tend to break stuff when I do that.

I've just always wanted a truck that I built so I figured i'd build it to look nice in a parking spot
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Old July 24th, 2013, 03:06 PM   #3
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I almost gave up on the truck and put it up for sale.

...until the GF found me a nice motor for a great price

It is currently being rebuilt with some go fast parts and i'm stuck on what to do for the new gears.

It currently has 3.73s in them, which I'm fine with and with my tuned pcm at 60 i only run at about 1550 rpm, and I get pretty good gas mileage for running 315s. Though I would like to go to a bit higher of a gear just to get a little more ummph out of it. I do not tow very much occasionally a 7k tractor or the odd vehicle here and there; mostly it is two snowmobiles or two ATVs. I am thinking that I want to go 4.10s; I really would like to pick up a 14bolt SF with GT5s and a G80; I'd love a locking diff. Although the cost of a 14 bolt with 4.10s is a lot more than a 14 bolt with 3.73s. I don't really want to go with 4.56s because i don't tow much, the motor is not going to be stock and I don't want extremely shitty mpgs.

Would I be gaining anything by going to 4.10s or just stick with the 3.73s? Also, how hard is it to re-gear the front pig? Somewhat difficult but it can be done in a garage or is it worth it to have an actual shop do it? I will not leave that a completely different gear than the rear....the only problem is that no-one sells 4.10s for a gm 8.25; they're all 4.11. I doubt it, but would the difference be anything to worry about??
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Old July 24th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #4
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4.10s will offer a noticeable difference with 315s and a small block.
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Old July 24th, 2013, 08:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by back woods View Post
4.10s will offer a noticeable difference with 315s and a small block.
That's what I was thinking; especially with a pcm tune to match everything
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Old September 9th, 2013, 03:54 PM   #6
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Finally got all my engine parts ordered; should be an early Christmas when I go home this weekend
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Old September 9th, 2013, 09:31 PM   #7
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