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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:53 AM   #21
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Some crappy pictures I kicked out while on break. My scanner does not work without ink so they were taken with a pos phone.









Basically I am going to take a pipe, weld a flange on the inside with holes to match my bolt circle, then weld another flange on the other end on the outside of the pipe with bolt holes for studs. I will have a ring cut which will serve as the rotor wear area that will bolt to the outside flange. This will let me simply cut out new wear rings instead of replacing the entire rotor when needed.

The caliper mounts to the upper portion of the steering knuckle. It will be around 25" off the ground.


It is progressing just slow due to funds.

I need to get the new stud mount 22.5x8.25(r11) rims first. Once I have the rims I can mock up mount my steering box(on the axle) and linkage to see how much room I have to work with inside the rim. Then I can determine the size of pipe and which caliper will provide the most surface area. Once I know how much wear area I am working with I can start looking at different calipers to see which one will give the largest footprint.

I plan on mounting the "street" 22.5 rims/tires inside the hub. For off road (mostly snow/mud) I will be using 54" xl 's on r20's mounting them outside the hub. Doing this lets me have the larger tire and same turning angles without changing my wheelbase. The downside is that the rotor will be hanging 5" below the axle tube. On the rear I am simply going to install a "rock guard" connected to lower truss. I am still unsure how I am going to protect the front rotors at this point.

The entire point is to mount the caliper as high as possible to whip off derbies giving better breaking/life while making the wear parts easy and cheap to replace. Placing the rotor in open air will also keep the caliper and rotor cooler.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 11:27 AM   #22
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Does it hurt, being so smart ?
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Old August 27th, 2013, 08:40 PM   #23
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As long as the rotors stay dry it doesn't matter how hot you get them they don't warp....I'm willing to bet I've put a car threw its paces more than anyone on here and after three days of testing, one set of tires and one set of pads, the rotors were not warped...
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Old August 27th, 2013, 09:11 PM   #24
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I am willing to bet that you will die of old age before your buggy is done.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:55 PM   #25
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Careful, don't over think it
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Old August 28th, 2013, 06:16 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Center Hancho View Post
As long as the rotors stay dry it doesn't matter how hot you get them they don't warp.....
Rong again. This may be kinda true with Cop rotors, a low quality or even home made rotor can warp with aggressive braking and getting it too hot.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 06:19 AM   #27
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On the rear I am simply. easy and cheap.
My favorite words when I read Cerial's posts.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 06:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Green again View Post
Rong again. This may be kinda true with Cop rotors, a low quality or even home made rotor can warp with aggressive braking and getting it too hot.
GM OEM rotors will not warp no matter how hot you get them
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Old August 28th, 2013, 07:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
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GM OEM rotors will not warp no matter how hot you get them
Thats funnay. Not to get too technical with your rong ass, but if you get them too hot, they will melt. What about Cerial OEM?
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Old August 28th, 2013, 07:55 AM   #30
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Lol
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Old August 28th, 2013, 05:59 PM   #31
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Thats funnay. Not to get too technical with your rong ass, but if you get them too hot, they will melt. What about Cerial OEM?
It is impossible to get them too hot by using them, I'm sure if you used a torch you could melt them, but not by using the brakes on a track for three days straight at a race pace
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Old August 28th, 2013, 06:32 PM   #32
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Most rotors fail due to bad mounting practices. Ie derbies at the hub flange during mounting or over/under torquing in general.

This thread was about the Batfly junk on those type of rotors and it is concluded they simply are not worth the trouble. Thanks for all the help.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 07:12 PM   #33
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I have them on my dirtbike, the extra bite is worth in if you ask me
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Old August 28th, 2013, 07:45 PM   #34
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I would like to convert my hydraulic brakes to electric. Any help is welcome.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 10:52 PM   #35
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I would like to convert my hydraulic brakes to electric. Any help is welcome.
Swap the brakes off a Maybach.
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Old August 28th, 2013, 10:57 PM   #36
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I would like to convert my hydraulic brakes to electric. Any help is welcome.
I hear cable operated is the way to go
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Old August 29th, 2013, 06:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Center Hancho View Post
It is impossible to get them too hot by using them, I'm sure if you used a torch you could melt them, but not by using the brakes on a track for three days straight at a race pace
Oh, the 72 hours of Brandon race? How did you finish? Sounds amazing!!
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