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Old August 26th, 2013, 03:36 PM   #1
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Default Replacing water heater pressure relief valve

I need to replace mine - a quick Google search makes it look like not too difficult of a project. Thinking I can do it myself.

Yay or nay? I've got a good affordable plumber on the line but not sure if I need him or not.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 03:54 PM   #2
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yeah, though i know around here technically you're supposed to pull a permit and have inspections
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Old August 26th, 2013, 04:30 PM   #3
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turn off water heater (switch) and (fuel)
shut valve off to water heater
drain off by bottom spigot
replace
fill
restart burner/power
watch on/off for a few hours
run hot water to upper most outlet
test valve.

something of that order....permits may be required... IDK that part :P
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Old August 26th, 2013, 04:42 PM   #4
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Thanks guys
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Old August 26th, 2013, 06:53 PM   #5
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If it blows up, delete this post...
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Old August 26th, 2013, 06:59 PM   #6
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Are the valves available at Home Depot?
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Scrambler View Post
If it blows up, delete this post...
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk View Post
Are the valves available at Home Depot?
Yeah, I believe so. I was going to try my hardware store first though, even if they had to order one.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:36 PM   #9
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Just make sure you get one for a water heater and not a boiler, they are usually right next to each other and the temp/psi relief are WAY different.

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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:44 PM   #10
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Easy to do as explained earlier. Don't drain all the water from the heater. Just enough so it doesn't leak when you remove the t&p valve. You'll probably need a good sized pipe wrench to get it loose, and keeping water in the tank will hold it still if you have to put the man hands on it. Hold the valve open, if no water comes out, it's drained enough. Also make sure the replacement valve is rated for your water heater. Usually less than 50k btu. And you do not need a permit for this work.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:59 PM   #11
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Like said above, easy to replace, had to replace one on a brand new water heater.
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Old August 26th, 2013, 07:59 PM   #12
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Thanks guys! Yeah, I will bring a picture of the current one into the store to be sure I get the right one.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 03:28 PM   #13
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OK, two follow up questions:

1. I do want the T&P valve for the heater, right? Just making sure in light of the boiler v. heater comment above.

2. The replacement T&P relief valve I bought is identical on all things on the blue tab on the front, except that the one currently on the heater says "LL100XL-4" while the replacement is an "LF 100XL-2". Any big deal there? Everything else is the same with PSI, max heater output, and BTU/hr (which Rob, is 105,000, does that ring any alarm bells?)

Thanks again for the help.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 03:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbikinbryno View Post
OK, two follow up questions:

1. I do want the T&P valve for the heater, right? Just making sure in light of the boiler v. heater comment above.

2. The replacement T&P relief valve I bought is identical on all things on the blue tab on the front, except that the one currently on the heater says "LL100XL-4" while the replacement is an "LF 100XL-2". Any big deal there? Everything else is the same with PSI, max heater output, and BTU/hr (which Rob, is 105,000, does that ring any alarm bells?)

Thanks again for the help.
D'oh, just figured out that the difference must be the length of the fitting going into the heater. Back to the hardware store.
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Old August 27th, 2013, 04:39 PM   #15
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Use thread sealant
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Old August 27th, 2013, 04:42 PM   #16
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Yep, got it.
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