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Old July 21st, 2013, 07:56 PM   #1
bbaXJ
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Default Staining question for the wood workers/finishers

Last year I bought a nice log house built in 2005/2006 and some of the exterior walls are in need of re-staining. Some of the existing stuff is flaking off and beginning to get mildew. Here's an example of the worst of it:

Most of it isn't that bad, but you get the idea.

I've read that cleaning it is as simple as a stiff brush with a 50/50 bleach/water mix. Powerwashing is not recommended because you can force water where you don't want it. So I think cleaning, removal of flaking stain, and killing of the mildew is covered already.

My concern is the new stain.....I have little experience with wood finishing. The house was originally stained with Sikkens Cetol like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikkens-T...7#.UeyBZCrD_mI
I bought some and did a small test area and am not happy with the finish. The old stuff appears to be much thicker and sitting on top of the wood surface almost like a paint. Where I apply new stain it soaks slightly into the wood surface and has a different finish and gloss to it. The new stain on top of the old stain stays more glossy and has a slight tackiness to it, even after a week.



Any thoughts or advice? Am I doing something wrong? Is there something I should be mixing in with the stain? I don't expect a perfectly uniform finish, which is fine, but it should be better than this, and I want the best and longest protection for the logs.
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Old July 21st, 2013, 08:13 PM   #2
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Scooter aka Scott live two miles from me and redid his log home two years ago ! He had a thread on here about it
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Old July 21st, 2013, 08:31 PM   #3
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I did mine last fall...my first suggestion is start early (now) because its more work to do it correctly than you'll realize until you start.

All the previous stain needs to be stripped. That means your going to have to either sand or use a chemical stripper and power washer. I did both...ended up sanding after stripping/washing. You can power wash, just give the wood atleast a month to dry out prior to staining (and use common sense - don't intentionally force water into joints). Really its no different than redoing a deck.

For stain, I literally had samples of everything. Sikkens imo was horrible and reviews claim it isnt durable in the new low VOC formula. I ended up going with the high VOC TWP...two coats wet on wet. Oil based seems to get better reviews for durability so thats what i went with.. I didn't clear/laquer like yours looks like it had....its only been a year but it looks ok now. If you plan to stay I'd huy extra stain so the next app is an overcoat rather than strip for a new product since you can't find your old stain
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Old July 21st, 2013, 08:37 PM   #4
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Ive used this same stuff on my sailboat. If I remember right (left the sailing world 14yrs ago), your supposed to scrape off the loose stuff and re-coat the whole thing. If it were me, I would scrape off the loose, clean with the 50/50, coat just the bare spots once or twice, it will soak in, then coat all of it to even out the sheen. BTW its not really a stain, its a tinted sealant. Really good stuff.
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Old July 21st, 2013, 08:45 PM   #5
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completely strip the old stain, you will get a uniform and even finished look.
A place in Rochester called OPW has a product to strip the old stain. Get the brightener to get a natural color back after stripping.
And yes use common sense when using the powerwasher, let the stripper do the work and just give the logs a good wash.
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Old July 21st, 2013, 09:04 PM   #6
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Old July 21st, 2013, 09:14 PM   #7
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i don't remember the name of the stuff i used to use been a few years call (The Paint Spot) in Grand Rapids that is where i used to get all my stuff from they had a stripper and a finish both were applied by a cheap pump style sprayer power wash after stripper is applied let air for two days then finish i back brushed to ensure proper adhesion
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