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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:07 PM   #1
FyrFyr
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Default water pump or radiator

I've got my YJ running with a 350 chevy. It runs at 210-220 on a 90 degree day. The motor is fresh .030" over and I've spent a few evenings on the tune. Running an Edelbrock 650 AVS carb. Initial timing is 14 degrees with 34 by 3000 rpm. I have tweaked the carb and it is not running lean. At cruise (2000 rpm at 60mph) it runs warm... at idle it will evntually cool down to 190. I have a two core generic alumium radiator that came with the jeep. I am running a 2500 cfm electric fan with a shroud. Also running a Summit Racing house brand water pump with stock pulleys. Any way, I am down to the radiator or water pump, which one should I replace? Other ideas?

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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:16 PM   #2
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I've got my YJ running with a 350 chevy. It runs at 210-220 on a 90 degree day. The motor is fresh .030" over and I've spent a few evenings on the tune. Running an Edelbrock 650 AVS carb. Initial timing is 14 degrees with 34 by 3000 rpm. I have tweaked the carb and it is not running lean. At cruise (2000 rpm at 60mph) it runs warm... at idle it will evntually cool down to 190. I have a two core generic alumium radiator that came with the jeep. I am running a 2500 cfm electric fan with a shroud. Also running a Summit Racing house brand water pump with stock pulleys. Any way, I am down to the radiator or water pump, which one should I replace? Other ideas?
1. what temp thermostat are you running?
2. is the water pump new? that is a cheap part to replace if it's, and would reccomend doing so for peace of mind.
3. I doubt a stock YJ radiator is sufficient for a v8, what are the dimensions of the finned area?
4. is the shroud not "leaking", that is, air is not allowed to bypass the fan from around the radiator?
5. stupid question, are you sure you got all the air out of the system? is any part of the cooling system higher than the radiator cap?

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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:28 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply

1) 180 degree high flow
2) yes, thinking of going to a Stewart high flow
3) The PO installed a aluminum 2 core with about 18x19 core (may be too small)
4) shroud is tight, I installed baffles to keep air from going around the radiator at speed
5) I parked the Jeep with the rad facing uphill to make sure it was the highest point and ran it through heat cycles
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:35 PM   #4
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If it's OK at idle but hot while moving I would say radiator.
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:38 PM   #5
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that radiator is way small in my opinion that is about the stock size how wide are the cores
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:41 PM   #6
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If it's OK at idle but hot while moving I would say radiator.
could you elaborate on your theory behind that? only makes sense to me if he has his fan mounted as a pusher, not a puller.

Last thought, is your radiator cap new, what pressure is it, and are you getting pressure in the system?
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:43 PM   #7
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Fan is a puller, rad has (2) 1" cores
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:53 PM   #8
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Fan is a puller, rad has (2) 1" cores
read second half of post.

Radiator cap new, what pressure, and is it getting pressure?
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:55 PM   #9
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16 lb cap, and it is building pressure
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #10
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my guess should be radiator too then. Thought about it a bit.

you could probably prove this by bumping up idle to say 2-2200 and see if it will still stay below 200
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Old July 12th, 2013, 09:59 PM   #11
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Thanks all
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Old July 12th, 2013, 10:05 PM   #12
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What year 350? Are you sure you have the correct pump rotation? Engines with a factory v-belt setup are clockwise rotation and factory Serpentine setups are counter-clockwise. The wrong pump may work well enough to cool at lower engine speeds but at higher rpm there will cavitation and not much flow.

Your radiator is sufficient for your setup, I was running a very similar cooling setup on a Ford 5.0and could beat the hell out of the engine and never be above 220*.

Another thing worth checking that is almost always overlooked is a blown head gasket. Buy or borrow (vatozone has them) a combustion leak tester and run the test, its about $40 to buy the kit and could save you a bunch of cash.
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Old July 12th, 2013, 10:12 PM   #13
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It's a '78 motor and pulley system. I am wondering if Summit sent the wrong pump and I didn't catch it.
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Old July 13th, 2013, 09:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
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It's a '78 motor and pulley system. I am wondering if Summit sent the wrong pump and I didn't catch it.
doubt you have wrong pump, it would overheat quickly cuz your pump would not be moving much water. start with timing, take a couple degrees out first and see if it helps, quick and cheap. if not, look at bigger radiator.
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Old July 13th, 2013, 09:45 AM   #15
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My 2 cents. Running just about same thing. Everything new Rad back. Still had over heat problem. No fan on motor!!!!! Cut hood lovers etc, sill running hot. PUT 5 BLADE
C/Track fan on motor & took care of everything, works great now. Just my 2 cents. A lot of time & $ spent for nothing. Just needed fan on motor to move air.
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Old July 13th, 2013, 10:50 PM   #16
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i'd check to see if the waterpump is the right rotation, go but an autozone water pump (lifetime warrenty) if you still have the same issue, bring it back and get your money back.
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