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Old June 12th, 2013, 03:32 PM   #21
montecarlo33
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I'm not 100% that I have the 242. It may have a 249 in it. Not sure how to tell. I was told it has the 242 but I don't know if they guy new what he was talking about or not. I know it has one or the other.
easiest way to tell is the 249 is the full time awd transfer case. Only options are 4 wheel all time, netural, and 4 low. The 242 does the same but also has "part time 4x4" and 2wd options.

While I hope im not going to have to go to the lengths you are, but I am going to start with cleaning the TB and replacing the TPS, following it up by changing to an electric fan, replacing my first o2 sensor(already replaced back one) and maybe replacing the catalytic converter. my jeep has 176,300 on it and I think it just may be getting weak that's all but Im trying to squeeze what I can out of it. But the hesitation is annoying.
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Old June 12th, 2013, 04:16 PM   #22
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It sounds like you have a little work to do and a good plan.
I have a $500 banks header that cracked just like the cheaper ones. I cant say its the headers fault because I wheel my tj hard and the exaust gets in the way sometimes.
I hate buying chinese but I would buy a rugged ridge stainless next time and save a few hundred.

Relocating the iat sensor make the ecm think it is colder out then it really is. It adds fuel to the mixture which can help because the 4.0 runs really lean from the factory.
I am not sure how effective it is on obd2 in the long run because I think the ecm will learn around the change using the o2 sensor. It will just keep leaning out to get the long term fuel trim where chrysler wants it for emissions and milage.

Im not 100% positive about this. I moved mine and it made it run richer on my wideband but I havnt run it enough to tell if it will lean out after 30 starts.

I have heard that it doesnt work well in cold weather. I left my stocker in the intake and just extended the wires. I put a new one from napa in my cold air intake tube just after my filter. If it doesnt run well in the winter I can just plug in the stock one.
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Old June 12th, 2013, 04:36 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by montecarlo33 View Post
easiest way to tell is the 249 is the full time awd transfer case. Only options are 4 wheel all time, netural, and 4 low. The 242 does the same but also has "part time 4x4" and 2wd options.

While I hope im not going to have to go to the lengths you are, but I am going to start with cleaning the TB and replacing the TPS, following it up by changing to an electric fan, replacing my first o2 sensor(already replaced back one) and maybe replacing the catalytic converter. my jeep has 176,300 on it and I think it just may be getting weak that's all but Im trying to squeeze what I can out of it. But the hesitation is annoying.
Okay I have the 242 then. I don't have an option for AWD.
I have:
2WD.
Part time 4x4.
Full time 4x4 High.
Neutral.
4WD Low.

On the street in winter what do I use?
What is the difference in part time 4WD and full time 4WD?

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It sounds like you have a little work to do and a good plan.
I have a $500 banks header that cracked just like the cheaper ones. I cant say its the headers fault because I wheel my tj hard and the exaust gets in the way sometimes.
I hate buying chinese but I would buy a rugged ridge stainless next time and save a few hundred.

Relocating the iat sensor make the ecm think it is colder out then it really is. It adds fuel to the mixture which can help because the 4.0 runs really lean from the factory.
I am not sure how effective it is on obd2 in the long run because I think the ecm will learn around the change using the o2 sensor. It will just keep leaning out to get the long term fuel trim where chrysler wants it for emissions and milage.

Im not 100% positive about this. I moved mine and it made it run richer on my wideband but I havnt run it enough to tell if it will lean out after 30 starts.

I have heard that it doesnt work well in cold weather. I left my stocker in the intake and just extended the wires. I put a new one from napa in my cold air intake tube just after my filter. If it doesnt run well in the winter I can just plug in the stock one.
I have been looking at the cheaper headers my self. And I think I will add a flex section in just after the header as well.
Sounds like relocating the AIR sensor is not a good idea for me.

I am also looking at a 63mm throttle body, and the 99+ intake manifold swap as options to get some more power out of it.

I may also replace the entire exhaust system. including the cat. It has been cut open and welded shut at the front. I suspect it may have been gutted.
But if it had I should have a CEL on. And I don't.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 11:17 AM   #24
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I ran an Edelbrock Ceramic Stainless header on my XJ. Then I had the local exhaust shop fab up an exhaust from the header back using a Dynomax muffler I bought on here used.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 02:49 PM   #25
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why is spinning the tires a performance mark?

other than being a good way to get a ticket i'm not sure why that would matter if it drives fine the rest of the time.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 03:06 PM   #26
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My buddy just had this problem with his zj it was the crank position sensor had went bad he replaced it and has ran fine ever seance.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 08:08 PM   #27
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why is spinning the tires a performance mark?

other than being a good way to get a ticket i'm not sure why that would matter if it drives fine the rest of the time.
Bullshit

Its the only mark.

If it spins the tires = sweet

No spin =
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Old June 13th, 2013, 08:09 PM   #28
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I would just weld the header and run it.
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Old June 15th, 2013, 09:38 PM   #29
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So I talked to a friend of mine that's good with cars and he thinks that cat is plugging up.
And seeing as its been cut open and then welded back together I think he may be on to something. So I'm going to replace the entire exhaust from the block to the bumper.

I also have a new Accel cap an rotor coming tomorrow. I don't like the ones I put on it and the parts store is willing to take them back. I am going to do a compression test and test fuel pressure and timing tomorrow as well.
And check to see what the new plugs look like after 100 miles.

Ill post back what I find.
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Old June 16th, 2013, 01:20 AM   #30
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Looking at the plugs is useless, they will look new with a touch of white on them because the jeep ecm runs so lean.
You dont need a cat, it wont throw a code.
A 2000 intake may give you a little but imo a bored throttle body is a waste of money unless you have a bigger cam, head work, or stroked it.
The stock throttle body flows better then the stock head,cam,exaust combo so it really is not a weak point untill you address the other things.
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Old June 16th, 2013, 12:06 PM   #31
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Looking at the plugs is useless, they will look new with a touch of white on them because the jeep ecm runs so lean.
You dont need a cat, it wont throw a code.
A 2000 intake may give you a little but imo a bored throttle body is a waste of money unless you have a bigger cam, head work, or stroked it.
The stock throttle body flows better then the stock head,cam,exaust combo so it really is not a weak point untill you address the other things.
Still have to pull them for the compression test.
I have been told I can remove the car by a few people now. I may try this to see how it runs without one.

I'm going to do the whole exhaust system now. And will probably do the head later this year, or next spring. May do mild cam at the same time. And its not expensive, so why not.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok so last night we drove the Jeep 8 miles to the movies.
For no reason (I have not changed any thing yet.) its back to running great! Its got good power, and I was even able to pass a slower car with no problems.

It still tries to stall, stumbles, and backfires a minute or so after a cold start. And the problem seems to be getting worse. It now dose this even if the motor is still worm. And the stumble/ hesitation/ stall/ backfire is lasting longer before it sorts its self out.

Also last night after the movie on the way home I floored it from a stop to see how long it would take to get to 60. It did much better then the 17 or seconds from the last time. Took it about 12-13 seconds. (Still a little slower then it should be.) But the trans did something I was not expecting. At full throttle its shifting out of first gear at 4,000rpm. I thought it should hold to close to 5,000rpm?
Is this normal?
I checked the trans cable. It is adjusted correctly. The trans is due for a service. The fluid is a bit darker then it should be and smells a little burnt. I am going to have the service done on it the next time I get home around the 4th of July. Until then it will not be driven much.

I don't know much about autos. This is really the first one I have owned as an adult. (Had a few beaters when I was a kid that never lasted long.)
I have been driving manual trans cars for the last 15+ years. (Could not find a manual Cherokee that was not rusted out, so we settled for the ZJ.)

Thanks guys for the help!
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Old June 16th, 2013, 10:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
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My plan at this point is this:
Replace cracked header with new one. (Not sure what to buy yet, little help here?)
Replace injectors with 703 Neon injectors. (Knew about this and was planing it already.)
Replace up stream O2 sensor. (Current one looks to be stock. Jeep has 152k on it)
Replace failing fan clutch and fan with electric fan from 99 GC, and a fan controller.
Replace drive belt.
Replace TPS.
Do a compression test.
Test fuel pressure.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Change oil and filter.
Service transmission.
Change oil in both diffs and replace leaking cover seals.
Change oil in T-case.
Replace leaking rear wheel seals and install new wheel bearings while I'm in there.
Replace leaking real main seal.
Replace leaking valve cover gasket.
Replace leaking oil pan gasket.
Replace leaking oil filter adapter seal.
Attempt to force the ECU to throw a CEL by unhooking engine temp sensor to be sure that the CEL circuit in the ECU is working. (Have been told Jeeps have a problem with this, and not throwing a CEL or code even when there is a problem.)

maybe time to take it to a mechanic and stop throwing parts at it.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 11:27 AM   #33
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I bought one of the cheap stainless headers from Ebay for a project of mine. It seems really close to the same build quality as the much more expensive Edelbrock I put on my sisters ZJ. As said above, even the high budget ones crack, so I figured that when I have to weld it eventually anyway, I'll feel less ripped off than if I payed for the baller one.

Skife, the only thing he's "throwing at it" is the TPS and 02 sensor, which are also known to be troublesome. Isn't the Jeep recommended 02 replacement (service) interval less than 100,000 miles anyway? TPS's cost less than an hour of shop labor.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 02:04 PM   #34
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Yeah, but you can check the tps for free with a meter.
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Old June 17th, 2013, 02:46 PM   #35
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Yeah, but you can check the tps for free with a meter.
True, if he has a meter. I was going to tell him how to check it but for the $20 it's worth having a spare in the glove box.
I also see lots of wireing harnesses poked full of holes because most people dont know the proper way to probe connections.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 10:55 PM   #36
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I have a hook up on parts. (Brother in law is the manager of a parts store.) So I get most things at or just over cost.

TPS sensor is going to cost me all of $12.00! Why no just replace it? Even if its good it has 152+ thousand miles on it, and at this point its probably not long for this world.

As for the O2 sensors, they look to be OEM. And again even if there not they likely have close to 100k on them.
The upstream one is like $56.

Remember guys this rig will also be my wife's DD. (At least for now.)

I would much rather spend an few extra bucks then worry about her getting stranded.

I knew it had problems when I bout it. I don't mind fixing them. And it dos not need to pull DD duty until the end of the year. So I have almost 6 months to get everything sorted on it before she will need it to get to and from work.

Thank you for the help.

Ordered parts:

OBX header. (Rip off of the Flowmaster)
2.5" x 8" flex section. (Will go after first bend off header to reduce stress on header.)
Head light housings.
Front O2.
TPS.
Steering box. (99 Durango box)


Still need:

Muffler.
Tail pipe.
Some pipe bends.
O2 bung.
Cat.
Some pipe.
Lots of other things.
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Old June 18th, 2013, 11:20 PM   #37
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Yeah, but you can check the tps for free with a meter.
That's just silly
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Old June 19th, 2013, 02:23 PM   #38
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Yeah, but you can check the tps for free with a meter.
I was taught that unless you had a graphing meter you couldn't check the TPS accuratly because you wouldn't be able to see a drop if it was only bad in one spot. I know I always used the tech2s data graph when I checked them.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 05:42 PM   #39
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I would just weld the header and run it.
X2

Mine looks like the highschool welding shop got ahold of it for practice. It cracks 1-2 times per year. Burn em up and move on with life.
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Old June 28th, 2013, 12:27 AM   #40
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With where my crack is I would have to remove it to weld it.
I'm not going to go threw all the trouble to remove it, pay some one to weld it, then put it back on just to have it crack again in 6 months to a year.

I already ordered a new one with a life time warranty.
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