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Old May 29th, 2013, 10:55 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by 974x4Taco View Post
Asymmetric are great for cars, small suv's, ect but as soon as you get into anything full size they suck imo.....the short front arms don't allow you to get far enough forward and everything always feels way rear heavy....i have one of each at work and use the symmetric one 99.9% of the time just because it feels more stable
Agree. I don't care for the Asymmetric especially with anything longer than a jeep.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 10:55 AM   #42
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Haggar, I am glad I will not be the only one using a squeegee and brooms to push water to the floor drains I do a high volume of work year round, and I wish I had graded the floor very slightly. But both hoist are perfectly plumb, with zero shims.
Yeah, I've been getting my squeegie practice! Especially as the doors face northwest, so catch the rain, and I don't have my gutters on yet. Those will help. I get a little seepage under one door, but the other big one on the right leaks more than it should underneath. I have a threshold seal I could put down, but I don't want to have something on the concrete, that will get ripped up or make it impossible to sweep out. I need to play with the seals more to see if they can be improved.

The inspectors for my TWP required flat floors.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 10:57 AM   #43
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I put mine slightly off center in the 30ft depth. I can pull my Grand Cherokee in that bay and open all the doors without hitting the post.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 11:00 AM   #44
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Yeah, I've been getting my squeegie practice! Especially as the doors face northwest, so catch the rain, and I don't have my gutters on yet. Those will help. I get a little seepage under one door, but the other big one on the right leaks more than it should underneath. I have a threshold seal I could put down, but I don't want to have something on the concrete, that will get ripped up or make it impossible to sweep out. I need to play with the seals more to see if they can be improved.

The inspectors for my TWP required flat floors.
Run a length of soft rubber fuel line inside the seal on the bottom of your door. This helps keep out the water.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 12:11 PM   #45
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Run a length of soft rubber fuel line inside the seal on the bottom of your door. This helps keep out the water.
thanks, I'll try this!
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Old May 29th, 2013, 12:21 PM   #46
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I am thinking about this one with the super-symmetric setup..

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...-Post-Car-Lift

Also was looking at the basic Eagle 9000lb, but that is asymmetric.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 12:23 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I am thinking about this one with the super-symmetric setup..

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...-Post-Car-Lift

Also was looking at the basic Eagle 9000lb, but that is asymmetric.

buy the oil drain pan too,..........it sucks tryin' to hit the pan while the motor is 6 ft off the floor.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 12:37 PM   #48
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buy the oil drain pan too,..........it sucks tryin' to hit the pan while the motor is 6 ft off the floor.
Yeah, I need that, a few jackstands, and a trans jack.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 03:08 PM   #49
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I have a 12ft ceilings, so I'm looking at the units that are 11'10" tall. My floor is completely flat.

I designed my barn so both bays are to the middle, and there is area on either side.


Sounds like more people prefer the symmetric style. Most of the vehicles I have are 50/50 weight distribution, so I think a symmetric, centered in the 30 ft depth will work well for me.

I don't have any nice layout photos, but here's a couple of where its going. It would be in the left bay, centered in the building.

Personal opinion here, but I'd rather have the hoist in the right hand bay. It looks like there's quite a bit more open area to the left side, I'd rather leave that open and easily accessible and not have the hoist and/or vehicle on it getting in the way of getting stuff in and out on that side. Of course it also looks like moving it to the right bay would limit access to the storage area to the right of that door, but that's a smaller area to limit the use of, hence my previous comments. Personally, I probably would've moved the righthand door further toward the right and had it as a dedicated hoist bay, leaving the rest of the shop pretty open. The biggest thing I've seen and disliked about hoists is that they basically permanently take over 1 full bay of wherever they're placed. I'd much rather have that restriction off to the side, 3-4ft(or whatever distance you deem workable) from the wall, rather than right near the middle where it's limiting the space to both sides. Leaving 1 portion completely open has lots more potential than 2 smaller open areas.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 03:27 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I am thinking about this one with the super-symmetric setup..

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At...-Post-Car-Lift

Also was looking at the basic Eagle 9000lb, but that is asymmetric.
Dad has that one I think. Put it up with a cherry picker and a tractor like your big one. He's 77 now, he put it up when he was about 74. If he can do it you can. He's one to easily screw up dimensions and had no problems.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 03:30 PM   #51
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I wanted it in the left bay, because its the side where I have the tools and office (for checking manuals / instructions on the computer) and its by the door in general.

The right bay, and 8 ft to the right of that door, are the storage areas. In general, I plan to have 2 play vehicles: my CJ7 for basic offroading, and my CJ6 for drag/street rod use. There should be room to manuever them around in there OK. We will see.

Really, either way, there will be the exact same open space available, if I put it in either bay. The first 8 ft on the left is loft/office/bathroom/tool room, then there is 8 ft of open, 10ft door #1, 4 feet of open, 10ft door #2, then 8 ft of open. So its exactly symmetrical.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 03:39 PM   #52
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We need a thread on shop floor plan layouts with advantages and disadvantages of them. If I ever get down to owning a single home again, a shop is going up.
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Old May 29th, 2013, 07:42 PM   #53
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We need a thread on shop floor plan layouts with advantages and disadvantages of them. If I ever get down to owning a single home again, a shop is going up.
I had a thread like that a little while ago, here in the pub.

The only thing I don't like about my barn is that the shop doors face somewhat to the direction of prevailing wind/rain, so I have had a little leakage under the doors. But I was pretty well forced into that, due to the spot that I put it.

I need to add gutters, and also the snow block things to keep the snow from sliding off. When 1000 sq ft of snow starts to fall off the roof, it makes a 2ft pile in front of the doors, and it packs so hard that my 14 hp snowblower barely can cut into it.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 03:49 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by TopHeavy View Post
BendPak XPR10a. It can be used as both asymmetric or symmetric. I am ordering mine in a couple weeks.
This is the one I am leaning towards also.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 04:04 PM   #55
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I need to measure my ceiling, but I think I can't clear the bendpack, which is 12' 1" tall. Seems odd that they wouldn't make it 2" shorter to clear 12 ft ceilings...
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Old May 30th, 2013, 04:05 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I have a 12ft ceilings, so I'm looking at the units that are 11'10" tall. My floor is completely flat.

I designed my barn so both bays are to the middle, and there is area on either side.


Sounds like more people prefer the symmetric style. Most of the vehicles I have are 50/50 weight distribution, so I think a symmetric, centered in the 30 ft depth will work well for me.

I don't have any nice layout photos, but here's a couple of where its going. It would be in the left bay, centered in the building.


I like your layout, J. Mine is 12' tall and 28' deep by 50' long running east and west, set up with four bays facing north, and I've grown to hate the layout over the 13 years I've had it.

I am changing the layout to something very similar to yours. I am closing off the two end bays and widening the middle two slightly. Also moving my service door to the north east corner facing north. The 10'x10' door I'm taking down I am putting in the west wall facing west so if the need arises to pull something longer than 28' in I have the option.

I'd be interested in a shop layout thread too.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 04:20 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I need to add gutters, and also the snow block things to keep the snow from sliding off. When 1000 sq ft of snow starts to fall off the roof, it makes a 2ft pile in front of the doors, and it packs so hard that my 14 hp snowblower barely can cut into it.
If you're installing gutters with your steel roof, you will want some sort of snow stop up there. I was misguided when I built my house into thinking my "commercial grade" gutters could take the snow load just fine, "no need for snow stops". Yeah... Bullshit.

The first heavy wet snow we got that year ruined the gutters.

If I do end up putting stops on, I will use the ones that simply look like painted angle iron screwed onto the tops of the ribs and run them the full length of the eaves. They seem the most popular in the U.P., and I like the idea better than the little clear plastic feet screwed all over the roof. I suck at the internet, so I can't find the link right now.

Last edited by disturbedsledneck; May 30th, 2013 at 04:46 PM. Reason: I fail at internet
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Old May 30th, 2013, 06:15 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE View Post
12 inches..............complete miss, on my part in the layout. I wasn't thinking about the car when it was only partially lifted on the hoist. When it is all the way up, there is no problem.
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Mine is close to the wall also but it was necessary due to my layout. I don't find it that big of a deal because the hoist is usually all the way up (walk under the arms) or down (step over) Yes, there are times it is waist high and I have to walk around but I need the exercise. I agree, in a perfect world I would have a walkway around both sides.

RE height, you need about 11 1/2 ft.
If you guys were like me it would not matter how far away the wall was. I have plenty of room to walk around mine or I would have is I did not lean all the extra shit I have in my barn against the walls by the hoist. So now I just stumble over that instead of having to walk around the post.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 06:24 PM   #59
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If you happen to have a barn already you can get away with less than a 12' ceiling. My ceiling is 10'6". It is pretty much as short as it can be aith the leep on the hoist but cars are OK with plenty of room.

Last edited by dmcjeep; April 25th, 2014 at 08:12 AM.
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Old May 30th, 2013, 06:39 PM   #60
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If you happen to have a barn already you can get away with less than a 12' ceiling. My ceiling is 10'6". It is pretty much as short as it can be aith the leep on the hoist but cars are OK with plenty of room.
Im pretty much be in the same boat as you, my potiential garage ceiling height is about 10'6". The second garage has 20+' of head height but only a dirt floor
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