94 F150 6cyl 5spd- any good as a wheeling rig? - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

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Old March 21st, 2013, 04:16 PM   #1
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Default 94 F150 6cyl 5spd- any good as a wheeling rig?

Not mudding- just not my scene.

Thinking more along just general off-roading, Silver Lake, R&V, Mounds, Bundy- is the drivetrain stout enough and what sort of mods should I do? It's rock stock right now.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 05:33 PM   #2
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I would personally do a basic SAS and some 35's, if not 33's and drive the shit out of it.

Slave cylinders shit out on those quite a bit.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 06:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvis13 View Post
I would personally do a basic SAS and some 35's, if not 33's and drive the shit out of it.

Slave cylinders shit out on those quite a bit.
Yup, mine is all the way to the floor before it releases.

What axle should I look for up front? Is it worth the time to look for tons?
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 07:25 AM   #4
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I have a '91 with a warmed over inline, NP435/205, 3.08 factory axles, and 32" STT. I beat the the hell out of the truck when I wheel it. I tear fresh motor mounts in a weekend and have yet to break an axle, it is open front and rear though. I have had zero issues at Twisted, Mounds, or Silver. The TTB will flex in the rocks, the rear leafs are super soft and flexy on mine, for general off roading the TTB isn't a bad design.

For what it sounds like you are doing I would:
Swap the M5ODR2 out for a ZF-5 from a F250 or F350. The Mazda is not the worlds strongest transmission and includes horrible ratios. The ZF-5 has a creeper first gear and a much lower reverse ratio. This is a direct bolt in swap, the transfer case is plenty strong. Write up on the swap http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...t-bolt-up.html

Stuff 32's or 33's with some fender trimming. I thought about running 34x9.50x15 TSL narrows.

Lock it in the rear. A lunch box maybe all you need from the sounds of it.

Skip plates and a winch.

Low budget, very capable. I have surprised many people with what my truck will do. I usually follow a XJ with a 4.5" long arm and 35's around in the parks.

Oh and get rid of the factory automatic hubs for a set of warn lock outs.
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 07:34 PM   #5
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Already got the warn lockouts, PO installed them. Fender trimming is not a problem, Michigan rust has done most of the work on the bed already. I should be able to find the ZF-5 at Parts Galore, my 5th gear is noisy anyway.

Glad to hear the TTB holds up well, the front has the factory dual shock setup as well.



No front bumper, just the big can opener left over from a plow, and a push bar from a 70's Chevy pickup. Should be no problem to mount a HF winch in there.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 06:00 PM   #6
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Looks to be in good shape for a wheeling rig. Want to trade sheet metal??? I am almost certain by the picture you could use a new set of coil. I got some from Car Quest for 120 or so. Sounds like you have a pretty solid plan. Just be sure the ZF-5 does not come from a 460 or diesel.

This is from the last time I was at Twisted. I used to have a poser shot flex out on a deck over equipment trailer. It drove onto the deck and kept the other three planted pretty well. I mostly have trouble with the rear bumper getting hung up on rocks.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 06:59 PM   #7
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It's a fairly solid cab, front fenders appear to be Chinese repops (weird gaps) and the doors have some bondo, but not rusted- looks like a quickie dent fix and Maaco paint job.

I only paid $750 for it, I've put about $1000 into it (t-case, front end work, replaced rear end when bearings took a shit). I need to replace the slave cylinder, so I might as well upgrade the trans.

Front end is saggy- common for a plow truck. It drives straight as an arrow, and the tire wear is pretty even for a Ford.

I've just recently decided to wheel this, I figure it should be good for what I want to do based on the response here.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 11:23 AM   #8
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I wheeled the crap out of full size Broncos with the TTB for years. I broke one front axle u-joint in 3 trucks. I did wear out a couple sets of ball joints but they were cheap & easy to replace. When they rotted out I just cut the rust off & installed bigger tires. All of them ended up on 35's. I ran 2" lift coils in the front & an add a leaf in the back. A cheap set of air lift air bags stuffed in the front coils helped control the tire wear as well as compensated for the weight of the winch when it was on.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 03:13 AM   #9
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I'm new to the scene, but I'm rocking the 300 and np trans and transfer case. i regeared to 4.56 added 37" tires, lifted with 2" coils kept the ttb but rebuilt it, and added a custom 3" body lift (made new frame brackets and crossmember taller to use stock bolts and no blocks ). I beat the hell out of it, and it takes it haha.
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Old June 15th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #10
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I forgot to mention that if you do the ZF swap to check the tag on the side for the ratios offered. Wide ratio is 5.72-0.76 and the close ratio version is 4.14-0.77. These will be listed on the identification tag
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