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Old December 9th, 2006, 02:38 PM   #1
cannaert
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Default TTB U-joints

Does the spindle need to come off to change the u- joints on it?
I have never messed with a TTB 4wd front axle the TTB OR I Beam 2wd I have done. Just wondering my Dad is getting pissed off at it and I dont have a freaking clue and how to help him.

Also how do the Axle shaft come out on that as well?

Thanks Chris

Last edited by cannaert; December 9th, 2006 at 03:00 PM.
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Old December 9th, 2006, 02:51 PM   #2
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the frt axle joints require the brakes and spindle hub (ccenter support the rotor attachs to) to come off, the shaft will then slide through the center of the spindle

the ball joints require the spindle to be removed from the beam
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Old December 9th, 2006, 03:00 PM   #3
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i know ( DONT KNOW WHY I ASKED ABOUT BALL JOINTS) the ball joints have to have the kunchle come off the beam but we really need to know how in the Hell to get the damn Spindle off the knuckle no to pull the shafts
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Old December 9th, 2006, 03:37 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by canaert View Post
i know ( DONT KNOW WHY I ASKED ABOUT BALL JOINTS) the ball joints have to have the kunchle come off the beam but we really need to know how in the Hell to get the damn Spindle off the knuckle no to pull the shafts
Take off the rotors, take off the 6-nuts on the spindle and tap it loose with a soft-faced hammer (brass, plastic, wood). Then pull the shafts out.

You'll need to remove the clamp for the boot on the inner slip shaft and pull the shaft out of the boot. You can just slide it back in and reinstall the clamp (with some careful reworking of the clamp). The inner u-joint hardly ever goes bad.
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Old December 9th, 2006, 03:47 PM   #5
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I would advise getting the proper puller for the spindle - it threads on to it where the locks for the wheel bearings thread, and then you use a slide hammer to pull it from the knuckle. You can try the soft faced hammer method, but if it's rusted on good you'll probably end up A)never getting it off because your using a rubber/plastic hammer or B) screwing up the spindle

And the inner U-joints DO go bad....I dont see why people are so damn afraid of replacing these - they are not that hard to do, especially if you're good with a torch
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Old December 9th, 2006, 09:40 PM   #6
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And the inner U-joints DO go bad....I dont see why people are so damn afraid of replacing these - they are not that hard to do, especially if you're good with a torch
Everyone i have replaced haven't had any needles left in them. Like was stated take a torch and cut the center out. Easy and quick.

Since i have mad skills to remove the spindle i used a block a wood and big hammer and work my way around the spindle to knock it loose. Before reassembly clean the rust off the lip and coat with antiseize. Also buy a spindle bearing kit. I haven't seen one yet that the spidnle bearings weren't trashed.
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Old December 9th, 2006, 09:50 PM   #7
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take the 6 nuts off like said above and use a slide hammer to pull the spindle
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Old December 9th, 2006, 09:51 PM   #8
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take the 6 nuts off like said above and use a slide hammer to pull the spindle
X2
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Old December 9th, 2006, 10:13 PM   #9
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I don't pull anything off to do u-joints on these...well, I pull the tire off. Get a wide beam u-joint press and save time and make money.
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Old December 10th, 2006, 10:09 AM   #10
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OK Got it all apart now.

But the U-joints look like they arre welded in but i thibnk it from them never being replaced. Just do what you normale would to to get them out or do i have to heat them up at all like a chevy. Like i said i have never Messed whit this TTB set up.
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Old December 10th, 2006, 12:01 PM   #11
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Nope, the caps should have C clips on the underside of them...between the trunion and yoke - if that makes any sense.

They're not held in by wax like GM joints.....
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Old December 13th, 2006, 08:31 AM   #12
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Go to autozone or murrays and rent the u-joint tool. Makes the job that much easier. Or use the torch method. I personally have done both.
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