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Old April 28th, 2013, 06:55 PM   #1
Jeep ZJ
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Default 12v cummins?

Looking at picking up a 94 12v cummins tomr. Body's rough. Dents, scratches, rust. Small vib a 60mph. Head liners Saginaw around the edges. Runs great.

What is something like this worth? Looking for some good solid info.

Thanks GL4x4
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Old April 28th, 2013, 07:02 PM   #2
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need more info. How many miles? what cab? 4x4? How bad is the rust?
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Old April 28th, 2013, 07:16 PM   #3
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need more info. How many miles? what cab? 4x4? How bad is the rust?
Single cab long bed yes 4x4 and I've seen rust a hole lot worse! Drivers rocker and cab corner have been replaced. Comes with pass side rocker and cab corner that have to be welded in yet, and both fenders since they are dented.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 07:38 PM   #4
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Auto $2,000-$2,500

Stick $2,000-$3000
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Old April 28th, 2013, 07:42 PM   #5
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Auto $2,000-$2,500

Stick $2,000-$3000
Auto and 194k. Only mods are #0 plate and 8in single stack

Thanks route those seam like some good ball park numbers.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:02 PM   #6
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I don't see too many that cheap. I bought my 3500 dually sclb for $4250, rebuilt auto.

I don't see many second gen for less than 4, but they might just get eaten up before I've seen any...

My mantra is it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

You don't mention 2500/3500
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:11 PM   #7
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3 years ago I paid $1000 for a regular cab 2wd 2500 with a toasted trans. If it hasn't seen a trans yet it should be ready for a "refreshening" soon.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:12 PM   #8
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Auto and 194k. Only mods are #0 plate and 8in single stack

Thanks route those seam like some good ball park numbers.
No prob. I buy them around that for a fleet I work on, we put another couple $$ in them, they make for good trucks.

Couple of things to watch, look for excessive oil in front of the motor, if there is, the dowel pin has most likely gone out. Also unbolt the turbo inlet hose and look for scoring, etc. Wobble the shaft on the turbo back and forth a bit. There should be very little play.

Lastly, make sure the tranny shifts through all gears, especially overdrive. And try to hit a couple potholes at speed during the test drive, the 4x4 versions of these trucks are known for front end issues.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:22 PM   #9
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I don't see too many that cheap. I bought my 3500 dually sclb for $4250, rebuilt auto.

I don't see many second gen for less than 4, but they might just get eaten up before I've seen any...

My mantra is it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

You don't mention 2500/3500
It is a 2500.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:23 PM   #10
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No prob. I buy them around that for a fleet I work on, we put another couple $$ in them, they make for good trucks.

Couple of things to watch, look for excessive oil in front of the motor, if there is, the dowel pin has most likely gone out. Also unbolt the turbo inlet hose and look for scoring, etc. Wobble the shaft on the turbo back and forth a bit. There should be very little play.

Lastly, make sure the tranny shifts through all gears, especially overdrive. And try to hit a couple potholes at speed during the test drive, the 4x4 versions of these trucks are known for front end issues.
It does have an oil leak. He said about a quart every 2 weeks. He dd's it everyday.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 08:31 PM   #11
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It does have an oil leak. He said about a quart every 2 weeks. He dd's it everyday.
Common probs are the kdp and vacuum pump for oil leakage. Neither are cheap to fix. That's alot of oil, so I'd bet the pin has let go.

I'd prob say $1,500 tops then on that one.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 09:05 PM   #12
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Gotcha. How much is not cheap?
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Old April 28th, 2013, 09:06 PM   #13
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I agree with all statements.

The headlight switch trends to fry as well. Valve cover gaskets tend to leak, but $20 on some nice blue felpro will get you going again. The injectors may or may not be on their way out... mine are leaky at 155k.

The overflow is likely worn out too if you notice "lower than expected" power.

More fodder for haggling.

Edit: the oe headlights are crap more than likely. They seem to take on water very easily.
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Old April 28th, 2013, 09:09 PM   #14
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He said he's pretty stuck at the price we agreed on but I want to check it over. Also he said the turbo is nice and tight but ill check it out
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Old April 29th, 2013, 02:41 PM   #15
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Bump

Pmed route
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Old April 29th, 2013, 03:09 PM   #16
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If you are happy with it at the price you agreed on, I say buy it. Expect to be investing money into it though.
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Old April 29th, 2013, 04:37 PM   #17
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Gotcha. How much is not cheap?
Anything over $1,500 as you described it is not cheap, over $2,000 is way overpriced IMO.

I answered your PM btw
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Old April 29th, 2013, 08:21 PM   #18
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thanks keith. you seamed like you have enough legit knowledge about them, enoguh for me to turn it down. interior was pretty bad, decent amount of dents and scratches, inside the bed was dented up pretty bad, looks like the front of the motor was alitte wet and had a leak at what looked like the rear main seal. thanks for all the help guys.
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Old April 29th, 2013, 08:55 PM   #19
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How much was he asking? Sounds pretty rough. Mine wasn't too bad. Inside of the box has dents, and a little rust on rockers, but nbd otherwise
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Old April 29th, 2013, 10:02 PM   #20
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The front main seal can also leak like a mofo, and just needs a "repair kit". (speedy sleeve and seal.) Unless it has some major issues, and based on what you've stated about it, I'd put it's value at 3k+. 12V's values are coming back up nowdays, and cheap ones are tough to find. Being a 94 and an auto hurts that trucks value, but still probably a fair buy at 2500-3500, IMO. I'd plan on putting some money into it either way. Just do the standard upgrades that fix the few issues these trucks have. Headlight relays, replace the seats, headlight housings, steering box brace and column bushing, front main seal, KDP tab, and a BHAF will have you set up with a nice rig.
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