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Old April 14th, 2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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Default Clutch Issues on 96 F350

I am trying to finish my truck up and I having a hell of a time bleeding the clutch on my truck. I have spent hours fucking with it and I can not get it bleed. Fluid goes in and come out with fine yet I still have no Pedal.

I am getting sick and tired of messing with it and I want my truck back. Been borrowing my dads truck and kind of wants it back.

If anyone knows how to bleed an internal slave cylinder on a ZF S5-45/47 please help me out. My Book sucks, internet sucks and so do the other forms I have looked on. If you can come by and help and your close to Hartland let me know please. I am pulling my hair out on this Damn thing.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 12:38 PM   #2
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Close the bleeder and pump the shit out of the pedal.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 12:48 PM   #3
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Close the bleeder and pump the shit out of the pedal.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 06:05 PM   #4
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I had a 94 and when I bought a new master and slave for it they actually sold me the wrong master. The one tons have a larger bore 22mm if I remember right and the 3/4 and 1/2s use a 18mm bore. Something to check into to make sure you have the correct one. I had the same problem couldnt get a peddle for shit and finally figured this out.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 06:40 PM   #5
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Check the rubber part of the clutch hose to make sure it is not expanding when you push the clutch pedal.
Ford trucks are known to wear the bushings in the clutch pedal linkage and pedal quadrent. When that happens you dont get full travel and it makes shifting difficult.

It should bleed just like a brake system.

If you are sure you have air in the system you can try using a pump style oilling can full of brake fluid to back bleed it. Fill the can and pump it a few times to get the air oit and fluid flowing. Put a rubber hose on the can and get as much air out as possible. Then put the other end on the bleeder, open the bleeder just a little and pump the oil can. Make sure you have a container under the master to catch the fluid.
Dont let the oil can run out of fluid and it may help to have someone hold the clutch pedal down while you back bleed it.
Sometimes air can get in weird spots so it helps to tap the whole system with a screwdriver handle while you bleed it, to release the air bubbles.

Usualy clutches self bleed but you have one of fords better ideas working against you.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 08:42 PM   #6
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I can not get the pedal to do anything. I have ZERO pressure build up on the pedal so just pumping the shit out of does Jack to it.
I have bleed it using the Gravity method, I have done the pump up with the pedal, I have even used a MityVac. and Nothing.

Every part has been swapped out except for the Master Cylinder and right now it as to be the only thing that is bad. I know the Clutch was dont wrong and was bad when I pulled it out. I am just getting pissed off. Only thing I am glad about is working for a Parts store.

I have tried everything I can think of on this damn thing and I am about to pull my hair out on it.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 09:21 PM   #7
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You should check for leaks
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Old April 14th, 2013, 09:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannaert View Post
I can not get the pedal to do anything. I have ZERO pressure build up on the pedal so just pumping the shit out of does Jack to it.
I have bleed it using the Gravity method, I have done the pump up with the pedal, I have even used a MityVac. and Nothing.

Every part has been swapped out except for the Master Cylinder and right now it as to be the only thing that is bad. I know the Clutch was dont wrong and was bad when I pulled it out. I am just getting pissed off. Only thing I am glad about is working for a Parts store.

I have tried everything I can think of on this damn thing and I am about to pull my hair out on it.
Can you block off the m/c? I forget what kind of line connection those used but if you can block off the mc and the pedal is the same the problem is the mc...either air or is bad. If the pedal gets high and hard your problem is downstream somewhere. At least you can narrow down what you need to concentrate on.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 10:13 PM   #9
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No Visible leaks.

I might have try undoing the quick connect on the Slave tomorrow and see if there is some pedal.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 05:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannaert View Post
No Visible leaks.

I might have try undoing the quick connect on the Slave tomorrow and see if there is some pedal.
I would do that, mine came apart there as the roll pin worked its way out and have someone at the top to make sure you don't run the reservoir dry.

Let some fluid run out making sure not to let the reservoir run dry and then reconnect it. Then remove the slave from the bellhousing and make sure not to over extend the plunger, then while holding the slave push the plunger against the frame of the truck or something solid nearby, pump it a million times while someone is making sure to top off the reservoir. Then keep pumping it another million times. This is not very enjoyable but it works. I think if you could apply a light vacuum at the reservoir it would slowly work the bubbles out of the system.

Enjoy!
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Old April 15th, 2013, 09:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannaert View Post
No Visible leaks.

I might have try undoing the quick connect on the Slave tomorrow and see if there is some pedal.
I am confused. Do you have a internal throwout bearing or a external slave cyl. Your original post said internal.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 10:18 AM   #12
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Its internal slave so I can not take it off the trans.
There is a quick disconnect on the slave and I was going to undo it and see if I have pressure build up before the slave.

I dought this is the issue but another thing I am wondering about if anyone out there can tell me or take a pic of it if they happen to own a 92-96 with a manual is if the Clutch pedal spring is suposte to pivoit or is stay in place. Mine look like its broken and moves around alot.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 11:54 AM   #13
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It wouldn't hurt to take the MC off and bench bleed it. I have had to do that before for the same issue.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 01:40 PM   #14
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I might have to but I am a bit fearful in doing it. The line is plastic and is held with a roll pin. I am kind of worried about breaking it and it sucks b/c its brand new.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 09:16 PM   #15
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Master was Junk. Swapped it out and it worked out just fine. Now I have to get a Clutch Pedal Switch. Damn thing is not working now and It wont let me start it.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 09:21 PM   #16
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Just connect the wires together and be done with the clutch switch. It makes it easy to roll over the motor in gear to move it if the motor wont run.
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Old April 19th, 2013, 05:53 PM   #17
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I got the the bypass switch out of a Automatic truck for it. No more need to push the clutch in.
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