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Old April 2nd, 2013, 01:02 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Motorcitydak View Post
My dad used to be on the crew for an off shore race boat. One day the boss wanted to remove 100# from the boat. In order to do that, you do not simply remove one thing that weighs 100#, you remove 100 things that weigh 1 pound. I have been going over every single piece that will be on that car in the end. If it can be lighter, I do not stop until it is

I know the mopar B body weighs a lot but you would not believe just how much of that weight is in just all the bolt on stuff. I have weighed my bare shell, it is only 635 pounds. I have a Moser 9 inch rear, will be using an aluminum 3rd member, 5.7 Hemi (505lb, weighed that too), trans is 100, transfer case is 45, front diff is 40 iirc, CV shafts are around 10, driveshaft about another 20. My steering rack is from Woodward, only 15# iirc. This will be manual steering and brakes with a Tilton triple master clutch and brake assy (5#). Rite now with the car as a shell with rear axle, engine/trans/transfer case and the front end, I should be no more than 1400-1500 pounds. That is with no interior, glass or body panels yet. I also am not running the stock grill or grill support. I have fiberglass fenders (5#) and a fiberglass hood altho I want to get a different bolt on one which I think is 15#. Then a fiberglass deck lid for another 5# vs the stock 40#'er. I really do hope I can do the 2500# race weight, only time will tell tho. My suspension and sway bar setup that I have built only weighs 20# a piece (front and rear) and I have eliminated the stock bolt in front K member (60#) for my own tubular one which weighs I think 25#

Like someone else said, do not do the carb conversion. EFI is decades ahead, literally. You can have an LS motor running for about $300 in wiring harness modification and ECU reflashing. You will have better economy and driveability complete with on board diagnostics

For the transfer case, just pick up a 247. As we all know, jeep guys hate them because of the viscous coupling and usually swap them out. You can pick one up, remove all of the shiftable components and save 20#. The coupling is actually pretty awesome for what we want.

As for the question about the t-56, I had a Viper t-56 before. Now tho I am using a c-5 Corvette t-56 but with the 32 spline SSR mainshaft and the Viper mid plate. The C-5 has the triple/double synchro assemblies so it should shift slick as owl snot up to and over 7,000rpm. For the shifter itself, I will be using a Keisler mid shifter. The stock C-5 tailshaft is still on there then I have a 3/4 plate and a 545rfe tailshaft to give me a trans mount and adapt to the NV 6 bolt transfer case pattern. Then another 3/4 plate to flip the 247

Here are a few shots of my junk. The front diff in there is from a cadillac STS but now I am using one from a trailblazer/envoy since they have a larger ring gear and some aftermarket support that provided me with a 4.56 ratio

Yeah, I am all about shedding weight on vehicles. I just see your goal of 2500lbs as optimistic.

You are at 635lbs on the body, then you need to add glass, seats, body panels. So you will be at least 800, likely, unless you are trying to make a track car.

I'm trying to make a fast street car, so I will have seats, radio, etc. I am at about 800lbs for the basic frame, body, seats, and dash. I don't have anything, body wise.

So we are the same there.

Your motor is 505lbs, mine is 430. I will be a touch heavier in the trans, t cases I assume about the same. I don't like the Jeep cases, the internals are too small. I am using a Borg Warner BW-4472, which is what is in the Typhoons, slightly stronger than the 1372s in the Syclones, and will handle 500hp/tq.

You have a Moser 9", which is heavier than a stock ford 9, but you will go aluminum in the 3rd. I have a Ford 9", but will probably use my 8.8, which is lighter, and has doesn't eat HP like the 9". Not sure yet...

Your tires/wheels look heavier than what I plan to run. Front axle, I'm a little heavier, maybe 50 lbs.

Who knows. maybe mine will come in lighter. I carry that 250lb fudge factor, because stuff adds up. wiring, exhaust, plumbing, fluids, etc.

And I'd rather have the extra 50-100lbs of a loud stereo, seats, etc, since its not a stripped track car.


I know it could be ultimately faster on the track to be 2wd. I am thinking that if it comes out to be low 11s on the street, is there any point in trying to be faster, if the only times I go to the track are for fun, not trying to be competative. Not sure....
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 01:10 PM   #62
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AWD > RWD > FWD

4WD is in a class of its own. Also, AWD is only fun if it's the Subaru system or a RWD biased system like what's found on Cadillacs. The FWD biased AWD bullshit sucks.
Although I think it is the exception and not the rule, Mitsubishi seems to do pretty good with their transverse motors in the evo's.

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Old April 2nd, 2013, 01:58 PM   #63
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I have no issues hooking on the street with ~450 horse and drag radials (bias ply) in a RWD application. I usually 'launch' at about 3500 rpm and it sticks. However, thats about all I can do. The car is setup to go straight and get traction, once you throw a turn into the mix, its over. I'd probably go AWD if possible, power through turns, almost always hook up. You'd get the best of both worlds.
I really have been concerned mostly with straight line. I don't have any curves on my drive to work, lol.. and I don't know how good a solid axle Jeep would be in the curves anyway.



I admit, I am thinking about how much easier it would be to delete the t case and convert my trans to 2wd. Could use some off-the-shelf long tubes, with no front driveshaft and t-case to clear. Easier to make it narrow and tuck the tires.
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 02:01 PM   #64
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I seen today in the marketplace where a guy was selling a 2wd front beam. It's on your side of the state too.
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 02:44 PM   #65
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The word "seen" is a participle, not the present or past form of the verb "see". It cannot be used by itself as the verb of a sentence.

The word "saw" is the past form of the verb "see"; it is properly used as the verb of a sentence. Thus the correct sentence is:
- I saw her take the apple.
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 02:47 PM   #66
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The word "seen" is a participle, not the present or past form of the verb "see". It cannot be used by itself as the verb of a sentence.

The word "saw" is the past form of the verb "see"; it is properly used as the verb of a sentence. Thus the correct sentence is:
- I saw her take the apple.
Would a link to the mentioned part suit you?
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=258761
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 02:48 PM   #67
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You are putting some type of a cage in this right?


Mine is a cruiser so I will lie to myself and say the family roll bar tied into the frame is enough. But, you are talking about track time and junk.
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 02:57 PM   #68
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You are putting some type of a cage in this right?


Mine is a cruiser so I will lie to myself and say the family roll bar tied into the frame is enough. But, you are talking about track time and junk.
Surprisingly, when I went to the track the first time, the only thing they said to me was to have arm restraints before I came back. That was actually before mine was even tied to the frame....
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 05:20 PM   #69
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I am also building my cj-5 into a light weight, low budget, 2wd, summer only, cruiser. Being lightweight I am moving the engine into the drivers compartment for better weight distribution. I am using 2wd because of the lighter weight and increased reliability over a awd system. That and I can get it lower cheaper using 2wd.
The stock 69 cj5's rolling chassis will be for sale soon.
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PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE post pics of this build. I HAVE to see it. Sounds incredible! Just one pic PLEASE!
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Old April 2nd, 2013, 05:38 PM   #70
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You are putting some type of a cage in this right?


Mine is a cruiser so I will lie to myself and say the family roll bar tied into the frame is enough. But, you are talking about track time and junk.
Yes, absolutely. Thats one of the weight adders vs the stock vehicle. I might take my factory bar from the CJ7 and use it there, and then put in a front hoop and a couple stringers, since I'd rather bend a new full cage for my CJ7 since my boys will ride in that back seat.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 05:51 PM   #71
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http://www.motownmuscle.com/forums/s...68-Awd-lsx-s10
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Old April 12th, 2013, 06:16 PM   #72
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This is pretty much the same drivetrain I am using, but in a lighter package:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...e/viewall.html

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Old April 12th, 2013, 08:26 PM   #73
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Dam that is sweet!
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Old April 13th, 2013, 06:50 AM   #74
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My 4wd stroker ram was an animal on the street always traction!
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Old April 13th, 2013, 07:03 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Mr.Green again View Post
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE post pics of this build. I HAVE to see it. Sounds incredible! Just one pic PLEASE!
Here is some pictures of my junk after 8 days or screwing around with it. The build thread is on another forum as this is not a 4x4 or meant for offroad in anyway. It is just something to cruise around in for fun.

The motor will be set back using a motor plate. Drive shaft will be 25-22".



I am building a aluminum floor to channel the body onto the s-10 frame.



Narrowed explorer 8.8 with an auburn locker.


Cutting the frame behind the shackles.


Cutting the frame in front of the a arms using a manual rack and pinion.
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Old April 13th, 2013, 08:01 AM   #76
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Here is some pictures of my junk after 8 days or screwing around with it. The build thread is on another forum as this is not a 4x4 or meant for offroad in anyway. It is just something to cruise around in for fun.

The motor will be set back using a motor plate. Drive shaft will be 25-22".



I am building a aluminum floor to channel the body onto the s-10 frame.



Narrowed explorer 8.8 with an auburn locker.


Cutting the frame behind the shackles.


Cutting the frame in front of the a arms using a manual rack and pinion.
Looks REAL good! I think you should put this project on hold and focus on your buggy build. That one is way more interesting.
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