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Old March 28th, 2013, 09:51 AM   #21
2fst4you
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I have a d44 rear and d30 front with chromos they have held up well for me. I feel as if my setup will hold up to bigger as long as the tires aren't too heavy. I would love like to find a set of 36 iroks on beadlocks.

At Wellsville over the weekend I broke a front ujoint but I'm pretty sure the cap came out even with full circle clips but I will have to look it over again. If that's the case tacking the caps could have prevented that
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Old March 28th, 2013, 10:27 AM   #22
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IMHO, you are wrong. If you upgraded shafts and joints in your turdy, the ring and pinion will be the next to go if you go bigger with tires.

Also, if you go from 35 to 36 tires, you will lose your ass when you do your axles upgrade because you likely won't be happy running 37s with an axle that could handle 38s or 39s. Do it right the first time.

Unless you plan to make a giant money pit, you need to sit down and figure out what your next step is. Getting to 35s on a stock-ish TJ is pretty easy and can be reasonably reliable. Bumping past that and you'll be blowing parts on a regular basis unless you only use the jeep to cruise or run 2-tracks.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 10:47 AM   #23
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I would get a set of 36's and run what you got until you start breaking shit. Upgrade axles then. However apparentley live in a fantasy world where you don't need a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear to truly enjoy going offroad.

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Old March 28th, 2013, 10:56 AM   #24
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IMHO, you are wrong. If you upgraded shafts and joints in your turdy, the ring and pinion will be the next to go if you go bigger with tires.

Also, if you go from 35 to 36 tires, you will lose your ass when you do your axles upgrade because you likely won't be happy running 37s with an axle that could handle 38s or 39s. Do it right the first time.

Unless you plan to make a giant money pit, you need to sit down and figure out what your next step is. Getting to 35s on a stock-ish TJ is pretty easy and can be reasonably reliable. Bumping past that and you'll be blowing parts on a regular basis unless you only use the jeep to cruise or run 2-tracks.
I only have 3.73s so I'm not too concerned with the R&P but definitely understand where your coming from. My axle ugrade won't be for atleast another year I'm just looking at a new set of shoes to get me by until then because mine are getting somewhat worn. Regardless I will need new tires and wheels when I go to one tons because of the 8 lug vs my current 5 lug.

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I would get a set of 36's and run what you got until you start breaking shit. Upgrade axles then. However apparentley live in a fantasy world where you don't need a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear to truly enjoy going offroad.

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I'm looking for a true 35 or 36 at the moment. If I go with a 37 it will have to measure small and be somewhat light because otherwise I know I will be breaking parts quite often
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Old March 28th, 2013, 12:27 PM   #25
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I would get a set of 36's and run what you got until you start breaking shit.
I'm pretty sure he's breaking stuff on 35s, usually it gets worse with tire size.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 01:06 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 2fst4you View Post
I have a d44 rear and d30 front with chromos they have held up well for me. I feel as if my setup will hold up to bigger as long as the tires aren't too heavy. I would love like to find a set of 36 iroks on beadlocks.

At Wellsville over the weekend I broke a front ujoint but I'm pretty sure the cap came out even with full circle clips but I will have to look it over again. If that's the case tacking the caps could have prevented that
This is at the heart of where you are wrong. The weight of tires is not nearly as devestating as the leverage and traction. Most hard breaks I have witnessed have been at idle or slightly above where traction is trying to be gained. Once a tire grabs, that's where things snap. The weight (mass) of the tire will only come into play at higher wheelspeeds which you can't acheive anyway with your 4.0 and 3.73's. I'll say it again, tacking caps is over stated. If your cap sits tight in the ear and the snap ring is in good standing, they will hold. I have never broken a joint where my cap coming loose was the problem.

Having "only" 3.73's makes Johnny's point more important. You are putting higher stresses on a higher gear, not less stress.

Can you run 36-37" tires? Sure. It's not a problem, but you WILL break more.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 01:37 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
This is at the heart of where you are wrong. The weight of tires is not nearly as devestating as the leverage and traction. Most hard breaks I have witnessed have been at idle or slightly above where traction is trying to be gained. Once a tire grabs, that's where things snap. The weight (mass) of the tire will only come into play at higher wheelspeeds which you can't acheive anyway with your 4.0 and 3.73's. I'll say it again, tacking caps is over stated. If your cap sits tight in the ear and the snap ring is in good standing, they will hold. I have never broken a joint where my cap coming loose was the problem.

Having "only" 3.73's makes Johnny's point more important. You are putting higher stresses on a higher gear, not less stress.

Can you run 36-37" tires? Sure. It's not a problem, but you WILL break more.
Talk to CTB2 about that sometime.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 01:42 PM   #28
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The times I have seen it, it is on axle shaft ears that were egged out from a previous failure.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 01:50 PM   #29
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My caps have served me well with 4:88 gears, a locker and 33" Mtr's on stock shaft crawling rocks. My .02 This is in an xj with lots of additional steel and a HP30.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 01:58 PM   #30
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The times I've seen it it's because the caps were walking around egging the ears out.......on shafts with no previous failures.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:04 PM   #31
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Tacking caps on stock shafts vs tacking caps on chrome Molly shafts are two different things. With the stock shaft and allowing the cap to rotate via the snap ring will tear up the hole and egg it out. I haven't seen this effect on chrome Molly shafts because the metal is stronger and the cap spinning doesn't have the same effect.

IMO tacking caps on chrome Molly shafts is pointless. But with factory shafts I have noticed an increadable increase in the life of my axle shafts whether it was my d35 ttb, 44's or my current 60. Every time I tried full circle clips the ears egged on stock parts.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:05 PM   #32
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my last jeep had 36 iroks on a 30/8.8 combo and held up pretty good, I put tj shafts up front with the caps tacked in place and only broke 1 axle per trip, but I had a pile of spares and a trailer so I didn't try not to break it.

If I tried to not break it I am sure I could have made axles last quite a while.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:23 PM   #33
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Tacking caps on stock shafts vs tacking caps on chrome Molly shafts are two different things. With the stock shaft and allowing the cap to rotate via the snap ring will tear up the hole and egg it out. I haven't seen this effect on chrome Molly shafts because the metal is stronger and the cap spinning doesn't have the same effect.

IMO tacking caps on chrome Molly shafts is pointless. But with factory shafts I have noticed an increadable increase in the life of my axle shafts whether it was my d35 ttb, 44's or my current 60. Every time I tried full circle clips the ears egged on stock parts.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:25 PM   #34
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I have a D30 with chromos, lock right, and 4:88's. The ONLY time I messed up a shaft was when i was to retarded to know to put full circle clips on them and the clip broke and the cap popped out and then the shaft ear grabbed on a hub assembly bolt and twisted the ear. I have broken 4 u-joints in these shafts and never hurt the shaft. Now i put a stocker on the short side and tacked the stock side and full circle clipped the chromo and i broke the stock shaft the first time my front tire came off the ground.

A big difference i have is being on 35x13.5 Krawlerz. These bastards hook onto everything.

I just don't understand the point of going from a 35 to a 36? I don't see that 1/2" of ground clearance making a huge difference.

Why not spend the money for tires on the axle upgrade?
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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:34 PM   #35
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On my stock shafts the ears were deforming because the cap was rotating. Once I prevented the cap from rotating I never had the same issue. When I ran full circle clips the caps would get loose, but the full circle clips kept the cap in the ears. But I would have to replace the stock shafts all the time because they became to loose.

Once I started putting two small tack welds on the top of the caps to the ears I never deformed the ears again. I have been runing the same joints on my inner shafts for almost 4 yrs. Occasionally a tack breaks and I grind it down and retack. I only mention the inners because I changed my stubs two yrs ago to 35 spline.


I believe he has chromos in his 30, as long as the full circle clip stays seated I see no benefit in him tacking his caps. IMO tacking the caps doesent add any strength to any components. It simply keeps the cap from spinning.


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John,
Your explanation makes sense. It has nothing to do with the cap rotating in the bore. It has everthing to do with the ear deforming and the cap then coming lose.

So, with your explanation, 2fst4u tacking his caps will still have issues.
I believe the ear deforms because the cap rotates. I don't see the tack itself as keeping the ears from deforming. But the tack keeping the cap from rotating deforming the ears.

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Old March 28th, 2013, 02:37 PM   #36
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For what it is worth ...
I have been running D30 with chromos, Detroit Locker and 4:56's for about 7 years with 36" TSL swampers .. had my first breakage last Oct. sheered the teeth off the ring.
When I break again I will be upgrading the axle. Hard for me to justify the expense of axle upgrade.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 03:09 PM   #37
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On my old axles, when I would replace the joints after running them with the tacks, it still kept the press fit in the ears. When using the tack method, I didn't deform any ears.

Again though this is all on oe shafts, not aftermarket chrome moly.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 03:14 PM   #38
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37" Irocks are a fair bit smaller than the 36's. I bought 37's because I wanted a 35" Irok, but they don't make one. 36's tend to measure between 35.75"-36.5" tall. 37's tend to measure 35.25"-35.75". The 37's are also narrower, despite the marked wider width.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 03:26 PM   #39
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37" Irocks are a fair bit smaller than the 36's. I bought 37's because I wanted a 35" Irok, but they don't make one. 36's tend to measure between 35.75"-36.5" tall. 37's tend to measure 35.25"-35.75". The 37's are also narrower, despite the marked wider width.
I had a set of 37's at the same time my son in law had a set of 36's. When mounted on 2 YJ's sitting side by side with the same psi we ran a level across them. They were the exact same height. But, the 13.50 36's were wider than the 14.00 37's.
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Old March 28th, 2013, 03:31 PM   #40
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I would love to but don't have a welder nor a place to do the swap just yet. I would like some new tires that I can run one more year



I'm fine with 35s just hate how they only measure 33.5 I normally don't break and a tire slightly bigger with allow me to crawl more obstacles
One guy backed out and we now need a new roomie for next year. Garage, welder, and more beer than you could shake a stick at! Also John's shop is pretty close too. Think about ....


Edit: Do you really have room for a true 35? Your rear rubs as it is That and why would you want 37s and 3.73s? I'm not even happy with 4.88s and 35s

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