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Old December 11th, 2012, 06:33 PM   #1
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Default Ford C6 Tech and upgrades

Gonna keep running my 80's SB c6 for my buggy. But gonna wanna make some upgrades before the buggy is done. What are some common upgrades/improvements etc for the c6 and why?

Auto vs manual valve body etc..

Reverse etc..

Using e4od parts in a c6?

I was considering just buying a TCI or similar done and ready to go.

Last edited by CheapThrillB2; December 11th, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
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Old December 11th, 2012, 07:29 PM   #2
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I run a Rev Man VB, just because I like the shift pattern (shift from R to 1 easily) and throttle control. Do NOT buy a TCI valve body. It does not have compression braking in first gear, which means that when you are in first gear, it essentially locks when you apply power and unlocks when you take your foot off the gas. that means that it is constantly applying and releaseing pressure to the clutch packs, which causes wear and an insane amount of heat. My trans would be over 220F in just 6 miles of racing. I now run a Broader VB (rev, man with comp braking) and love it.

I have the E4OD first gear set (planetaries) in my C6. I wanted the stronger 1st gear ratio.

As far as other components, you'll have to ask Tranny_Tom. He knows more about the trans that I do lol. I now we now have a Broader made direct drum in it, because he just replaced it (the other oned sucked ass and the broke weld)

I run a 2200-2500rpm stall Hughes converter which seams to be about perfect for racing and crawling. If they made a 2500-2800 stall, I would buy that one, but they don't. I have always liked Hughes torque converters over B and M.

I rum B&M trick shift fluid. It's relatively cheap but I can put it at 250F for 2 hours and it doesn't boil, aerate or burn. I'm sure it degrades somewhat, but it holds up well for the cost.
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Last edited by Bones; December 11th, 2012 at 07:33 PM.
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Old December 11th, 2012, 07:39 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info bones.
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Old December 11th, 2012, 08:37 PM   #4
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Like Bones said:
5 disc direct drum from Broader
Broader valve body
E40D gear train.


Start out with a quality rebuild kit containing trans-tec seals. I like using an e40d inner rear sprag race and sprag. They have more surface area for better holding power. Use slash cut Teflon sealing rings instead of the metal rings. When you use the e40D gear train, you need to cut around 3/8 of an inch off of the sunshell because it will hit the front band if you don't. Install an e40d rear case bushing. The best servo to use is an R code or you can use a sonnax one. Bones has a stock late model rubber molded servo and he hasn't had a band issue.

I'll add more when it pops into my head.
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Old December 11th, 2012, 09:07 PM   #5
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Default c6

i had an opportunity to speak with a monster truck trans builder that told me the things i needed to do to make my c6 hold up
stock or 2'' wide band the larger bands fail because they dont release quick
e40d 4pinion aluminum gear set the steal gears will fail they are to heavy they will ride on the drum over time
manual valve bodie forward or reverse get gear breaking type
pcode servo arm fast release of band shortest arm their is
sunex r servo
3/8 trans lines
big block drum will hold as many or more! clutch packs with a machine job
good pump gears
i run a very small converter to keep trail temps down 1750 stall
ams oil super shift (lost 30deg. temp on long hard trail runs)
and just good old line pressure check so it has proper shift firmness

i know their will be some diff. in what people want but i know that the combo works and dosnt fail on the trail! take it for what it is worth thanks

Last edited by lilbigfoot93; December 11th, 2012 at 09:08 PM. Reason: spell
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Old December 16th, 2012, 04:45 PM   #6
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Ok, talk to me like a moron lol..

Reverse pattern-thats Park-nuetral-1-2-3-R vs a normal pattern of P-N-R-3-2-1

Manual valebody is where it will not up shift on its own, as in stick it in drive and go. I would have to manual shift it up/down through the gears
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Old December 16th, 2012, 04:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
Ok, talk to me like a moron lol..

Reverse pattern-thats Park-nuetral-1-2-3-R vs a normal pattern of P-N-R-3-2-1

Manual valebody is where it will not up shift on its own, as in stick it in drive and go. I would have to manual shift it up/down through the gears

The "reverse pattern" is PRN123, instead of the standard PRND21 (or PRN321). That allows for fast R-1 or 1-R shifts.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 05:08 PM   #8
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I must be dyslexic today, I just reread my post and notice I had the stock pattern wrong
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Old December 17th, 2012, 06:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranny Tom View Post
Like Bones said:
5 disc direct drum from Broader
Broader valve body
E40D gear train.


Start out with a quality rebuild kit containing trans-tec seals. I like using an e40d inner rear sprag race and sprag. They have more surface area for better holding power. Use slash cut Teflon sealing rings instead of the metal rings. When you use the e40D gear train, you need to cut around 3/8 of an inch off of the sunshell because it will hit the front band if you don't. Install an e40d rear case bushing. The best servo to use is an R code or you can use a sonnax one. Bones has a stock late model rubber molded servo and he hasn't had a band issue.

I'll add more when it pops into my head.
X2

Broader has some nice stuff, I have only used a little of thier C6 stuff but have got a bunch of my c4 stuff from them. Getting clearences correct including endplay is the most impportant.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 06:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
Ok, talk to me like a moron lol..

Reverse pattern-thats Park-nuetral-1-2-3-R vs a normal pattern of P-N-R-3-2-1

Manual valebody is where it will not up shift on its own, as in stick it in drive and go. I would have to manual shift it up/down through the gears
Correct, a true Manual VB stays where you put it.
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Old December 28th, 2012, 11:25 PM   #11
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Does the e4od stuff get you lower gearing or just stronger parts?
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Old December 29th, 2012, 09:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grassman View Post
Does the e4od stuff get you lower gearing or just stronger parts?
both
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Old January 2nd, 2013, 01:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tranny Tom View Post
Like Bones said:
5 disc direct drum from Broader
Broader valve body
E40D gear train.


Start out with a quality rebuild kit containing trans-tec seals. I like using an e40d inner rear sprag race and sprag. They have more surface area for better holding power. Use slash cut Teflon sealing rings instead of the metal rings. When you use the e40D gear train, you need to cut around 3/8 of an inch off of the sunshell because it will hit the front band if you don't. Install an e40d rear case bushing. The best servo to use is an R code or you can use a sonnax one. Bones has a stock late model rubber molded servo and he hasn't had a band issue.

I'll add more when it pops into my head.
Might this be something you could persuaded in building in the next 12-14weeks?
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Old March 14th, 2013, 08:48 PM   #14
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Thanks Bones and TrannyTom
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