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Old October 27th, 2012, 03:30 PM   #21
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I might have an explorer upper if interested.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 06:14 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by wakebabe View Post
Hahaha that is funny. You should have said hello.

Did you also see the kid throw up everywhere in the dining room?
We missed the puke haha.
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Old October 29th, 2012, 09:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by frdboy View Post
If your short block is ok, i would probably just mill the the heads to gain some compression. If you got some gt40's, milled them and had a good valve job and maybe some clean up work in the bowl area. A cam and maybe some 24 or 30 lb injectors probably would be a noticable increase. Keep an eye out for a lightning lower and then you could run an explorer upper with and that would also help.

Another option that could be used on a bigger motor later is a victor jr. carb intake and have injector bungs and rails installed, run a elbow adapter to a throttle body. More money up front but would be able to go on a 408. You can buy those manifolds all built or do it yourself.
He has an older lightning truck sitting in his driveway right now....why not just do a motor swap?
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Old October 29th, 2012, 11:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bones View Post
proof please

as far as I know, the Ford Marine blocks and heads aren't anything special, just special cam
I purchased a 351W marine crate motor from Kar Kraft Engineering for my Bronco it was the same motor used in the 95 or 97 Cobra R road race Mustang. I was told that the rotating assembly was different than standard car parts. It was rated at 293H.P. in the Mustang somewhere I have an old Super Ford mag that had the specs will try to find it.
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Old October 31st, 2012, 11:16 AM   #25
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I found the article in the July 95 Super Ford mag just says Motorsport Marine 351W with custom camshaft, forged steel connecting rods, GT40 heads, standard Cobra valvetrain minus valve rotators, stock was 300HP @ 4800rpm & 365 lb ft of torque @ 3750rpm. In my 73 Bronco on 35's w/4.10 gears & C4 auto it easily reaches triple digit speeds, ran 80+ on the freeway portion of the trip to & from the Badlands.I've put 30k on it with 0 issues. Trying to get my buddy to give me another 351W marine engine out of a bought he bought just for the trailer it was on.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 12:15 PM   #26
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I would think hard about 10.5:1 CR when overheating and poor fuel are always an issue. Detonation at that CR will pound out the rod bearings and break rings in a hurry. The power increase is desirable but 9.5 may be a safer #.
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Old November 11th, 2012, 11:17 PM   #27
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I need to preface this by saying that whatever mods I do have to be RELIABLE. This is not for a drag car. It neds to run overtemp on shitty fuel near WOT for 2+ hours at a time without truning off. Over and Over and Over and Over and Over and Over and Over...

no engine is going to run overtemp for any amount of time without some damage, build an adequate cooling system, end of story

The long term plan is to build a stroker. At this point, I can't afford to machine a block, purchase a rotating assembly, etc. So I think I am going to proceed with just building a 351W with good heads and pistons, and leaving the lower end stock (if it can take it, which I assume it can). I will upgrade the heads, intake, cam, fuel and pistons. That is all, unless there is an OEM part that won't be able to keep up (timing maybe?). Then down the road, I will build a lower end and re-use all the other parts, instead of buying things twce.

Fuel management will remain OEM (MAF, EECIV)

tuned by a competent tuner is a must, not just any tuner...

Here is my first cut at what I want to do;
HEADS - AFR 220 if I can find a good set used OR Ford racing X head
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9995
OR
For now, find any cheap used head that has descent flow. A worked over GT40P might even be in the running.

the money you'll spend in getting the GT40(p)s worked will cost more then aluminum heads, better cooling and better combustion temp control as well.

Intake
Trick Flow R series manifold
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51511006/
90mm MAF and TB (already have)

something like this could kill the off idle response, great power over 2800 but not under...

CAM
I hear mixed reviews about every cam out there. Remember this is not a drag car. I need good quality near idle and proper drivability. I also need it to co-exist with OEM EFI.
Right now I am leaning toward the Ford F303
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6250-F303/

if the engine isn't newer then 96' you'll have to get conversion lifters, but converting to roller cams > flat tappet in all respects however.... with a push rod v8 you'll have a lot of valve train stresses with adding stiffer springs to compensate for the RPM needed to make use of the camshaft, this decreases life span of all other valvetrain parts (rocker arms will end up taking most of the abuse, some roller tip/full roller rockers would finish this off nicely)

Injectors
This is another choice I am stuggling on. I need injectors that will work well with the flow of a 351W, and hopefully again with a 408W. I don't want to buy these twice. I am leaning towards 42s, and hope that low end tuning with the 351 isn't a problem.

depends on your power goals, 42# will feed more then 600hp easily; but a 600hp stroker isnt going to last long.

Pistons
I need help on this. I want to run on pump fuel, so 10:1 tops for AL heads.

shitty fuel i remember reading, no higher then 9:1 with 87oct. if your going to be sensible its going to depend on the combustion chamber of the aluminum head you could run 11:1, but still would need to run 93oct and a very cool spark plug

My main concern is that with the 351ci build, the intake and injectors will be oversized for the flow requirements..... So... what are your thoughts? What would you buy?

Anyone have any used parts laying around they want to sell?
what are you actual power goals? 60s engines built to run continuously were usually smaller displacement (reference 60s and 70s 24hr cars). they have stupid high rod ratios (2.0:1 or more) to help the bottom end of the engine live for that long under continuous use and cyclic loading. with the benifit of a roller valvetrain, lightweight valvetrain components, and a geometrically sound bottom end should make the engine last a long time. the problem with off the shelf stroker kits is that the rod ratios are usually terrible or barely acceptable. End result should be an engine that doesnt produce crazy power numbers but would do it day in and day out forever.

remember the performance trinity, fast-reliable-cheap, pick two of the three
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Old November 11th, 2012, 11:28 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by BOGDOG View Post
I found the article in the July 95 Super Ford mag just says forged steel connecting rods
i LOL/FACEPALM every time someone brags about this.

some one find me a cast iron/steel connecting rod out of a windsor....i'll buy it and hang it on the wall
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Old November 14th, 2012, 11:09 AM   #29
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When i built my 351, i used KB 6.5cc pistons with a 1.774 compression height and 4.030 bore, some afr185 Street outlaws with 58cc chambers, 35-424-8 comp retro fit cam, roller lifters and rockers and a victor jr intake with the stock lower end. everyone i talked to said that was one of the most reliable combinations to go with even at 10.5:1 and i was at about 435 hp and spun that to 5,000 quite a bit. I know you want fuel injection but i went carb for the simplicity and lack of $ haha.
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Old November 14th, 2012, 11:25 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle-eye View Post
When i built my 351, i used KB 6.5cc pistons with a 1.774 compression height and 4.030 bore, some afr185 Street outlaws with 58cc chambers, 35-424-8 comp retro fit cam, roller lifters and rockers and a victor jr intake with the stock lower end. everyone i talked to said that was one of the most reliable combinations to go with even at 10.5:1 and i was at about 435 hp and spun that to 5,000 quite a bit. I know you want fuel injection but i went carb for the simplicity and lack of $ haha.
the heads were really key to that, it would be hard to make that kind of power on any ford production windsor head (excluding the boss 302) also the aluminum head helps cool the combustion temps making it easier to run higher compression without detonation (AKA knock)
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Old November 16th, 2012, 05:10 PM   #31
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the heads were really key to that, it would be hard to make that kind of power on any ford production windsor head (excluding the boss 302) also the aluminum head helps cool the combustion temps making it easier to run higher compression without detonation (AKA knock)
Which is why i picked them, i was looking at keeping stock production heads on it until i realized that i wouldnt be able to get the power and reliability out of the engine as i would with those AFR 185's.
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Old December 11th, 2012, 07:44 PM   #32
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ok.. It's time. Who has parts laying around?
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Old December 13th, 2012, 11:06 AM   #33
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I have a maf and 24lb injectors...
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Old December 16th, 2012, 09:14 AM   #34
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Got some explorer parts lemme know if your interested.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 10:17 AM   #35
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If you're serious about getting this done this winter I'd be willing to give you some help, I'm kind of bored... but unfortunately I'm on the other side of the state...

From the guy with the Falcon you violated lol.
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Old February 13th, 2013, 07:04 PM   #36
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Ok bill, my interest is spiked. What do you have going on?...
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Old February 13th, 2013, 09:21 PM   #37
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a 5.4L build now LOL
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Old February 26th, 2013, 02:03 PM   #38
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Bones, Shoot me a pm. Did you ever end up buiding up the 351 for the buggy, or keep it stock? I may take it off your hands..
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Old February 26th, 2013, 07:39 PM   #39
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Its stock and in my garage
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