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Old February 3rd, 2013, 10:46 AM   #21
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Also check and see if you can use plastic way cheaper
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 11:25 AM   #22
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Anfo
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 11:43 AM   #23
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jack hammer first then use the back hoe. Or if possible get a case 560 to use the trencher or similar machine.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 12:52 PM   #24
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30 mexicans with no coats, so they work faster!
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 01:16 PM   #25
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30 mexicans with no coats, so they work faster!
Why would you be so discriminatory and not get african americans to perform this work, after all they are suffering the highest numbers of unemployment of any ethnic minority group. The black population should be given first chance at 30 new hire opratunities, being that your great great grand parents purchased there family members from the ensuing neighbor tribesman on there home continent.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 01:25 PM   #26
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Why would you be so discriminatory and not get african americans to perform this work, after all they are suffering the highest numbers of unemployment of any ethnic minority group. The black population should be given first chance at 30 new hire opratunities, being that your great great grand parents purchased there family members from the ensuing neighbor tribesman on there home continent.
cause i dont want my shovels or picks stolen and pawned!
i also would want the work actually done!

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Old February 3rd, 2013, 02:52 PM   #27
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If the owner of the backhoe is okay with it, you can hammer though the frost with the bucket teeth. That's what we've been doing at work lately.

Also it's not uncommon for the water line after the curb box to be the home owners responsibility. Most likely they will require you to put in K copper or a meter pit out front then you can run what ever you want. Since you said you have 25' of copper already, I can tell you that's going to be cheaper than a pit.

Also be sure to find out what kind of joints they allow, most likely sweated or flare joints are permitted, while compression type are not.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 03:09 PM   #28
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Run a garden house until it thaws out a spot to start digging
That spot will be a little soupy
Pick the place to lay the garden hose accordingly
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 03:19 PM   #29
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A few rental equipment places rent these out.
http://www.groundthaw.com/?gclid=COG...FUKoPAod2XYAJQ
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 05:56 PM   #30
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Bay City will only go up the property line, then it is the home owners responsibility.

I ran backhoes for years in the winter, breaking frost is terrible for the hoe. I've had the hoe lift boom snap in half from a stress break, that was a 2 year old tractor. Get/rent a ground heater and get rid of the frost as much as possible. Then a standard bucket can dig. Otherwise find a frost pick attachment as suggested, that is still rough on the backhoe however.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 06:44 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by gmotox View Post
steel barrels cut in half laid on the ground with a torpedo heater in one head..

Same as the above, but with a wood/coal fire under the 1/2 barrels.........saw it done many times this way.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 08:40 PM   #32
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Same as the above, but with a wood/coal fire under the 1/2 barrels.........saw it done many times this way.
We've been battling the frost all winter at our new Multip-purpose building site here at camp. We did something similar but in a much larger/expensive scale. We built 'roofs' out of concrete blankets and scrap lumber to insulate the ground around our footer/foundation trenches. We actually found that, when it was a bit warmers (20+) the ground would produce enough heat with no heaters at all. Once you get below 20 though we had to break out our two 215K BTU salamanders.

This is what we built. We also cover them with very thick tarps.



For Anybody that cares, You can see the progress of our building Here.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 08:56 PM   #33
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I could come out and lay on the ground for you, but I charge by the hour. I'm not cheap.
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 09:04 PM   #34
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I could come out and lay on the ground for you, but I charge by the hour. I'm not cheap.
You are however very easy
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Old February 3rd, 2013, 09:48 PM   #35
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Just did this last fall. If it is broken at the shut off, you don't have to replace all the way to the meter. I bought 18" of 3/4 K line and compression fittings. Have they turned the water off at the shutoff to see what side it is leaking on? If you can still hear or see water running when off it is the City side and should be there responsibility. Hardest part of mine was it was 7 feet down and back filled with rock and sand. I went and got some sand to fill the hole after I was done. And as a side note, most water providers in Michigan only cover the street side shut off. If it breaks anywhere on the owners side, it is the homeowners problem.
The barrels and torpedo heater work surprisingly well.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 06:46 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by XJcoupe View Post
up here in the north, our city owns and is responsible for all waterlines right up to the meter, the house owner is only responsible for the water line after the city meter and the valve
I Bay City I am reponsible for the waterline from the shutoff valve to the meter.

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Bottled water, shitting outside, and truckstop showers until spring?
I'm ok with that but the wife and kids will not be so happy.

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Originally Posted by cj65 View Post
Can you get a frost tooth for the backhoe? If the frost is less than 12" you can rip it with a backhoe if you take your time. Once you get a hole started your all set. Another thing I have done in the past is to use a concrete saw with a diamond blade to scar the area and it comes up pretty easy then.
I like the concrete saw idea.

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Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
Also check and see if you can use plastic way cheaper
Nope. The inspector says I have to use copper from the valve to the meter. Also, no solder joints, only flared fittings.

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Originally Posted by MUDDERofaJEEPER View Post
jack hammer first then use the back hoe. Or if possible get a case 560 to use the trencher or similar machine.
I've thought about the jackhammer thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jthomp View Post
If the owner of the backhoe is okay with it, you can hammer though the frost with the bucket teeth. That's what we've been doing at work lately.

Also it's not uncommon for the water line after the curb box to be the home owners responsibility. Most likely they will require you to put in K copper or a meter pit out front then you can run what ever you want. Since you said you have 25' of copper already, I can tell you that's going to be cheaper than a pit.

Also be sure to find out what kind of joints they allow, most likely sweated or flare joints are permitted, while compression type are not.
I own a Case 580CK and lets just say it's less than springtime fresh. If I can get under the frost I can usually break 10+ inch think frost. Working with frost does beat the shit out of the machine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 93trackaddict View Post
Run a garden house until it thaws out a spot to start digging
That spot will be a little soupy
Pick the place to lay the garden hose accordingly
I've had the garden hose hooked up for 10 hours now and not a drop of water has come out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddyfun73 View Post
Just did this last fall. If it is broken at the shut off, you don't have to replace all the way to the meter. I bought 18" of 3/4 K line and compression fittings. Have they turned the water off at the shutoff to see what side it is leaking on? If you can still hear or see water running when off it is the City side and should be there responsibility. Hardest part of mine was it was 7 feet down and back filled with rock and sand. I went and got some sand to fill the hole after I was done. And as a side note, most water providers in Michigan only cover the street side shut off. If it breaks anywhere on the owners side, it is the homeowners problem.
The barrels and torpedo heater work surprisingly well.
The city says I must replace everythig to the meter because the line was installed in 1910. The supply line is most likely lead or galvanized pipe.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:14 AM   #37
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Lol @ garden hose
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:24 AM   #38
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Lol @ garden hose
I was thinking the same thing
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:38 AM   #39
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rip shank for your backhoe, or a jackhammer attachment on a bobcat for the quickest results.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:38 AM   #40
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Thats the citys problem not yours, anything after the meter is up to you. They must be talking shit, you are not suposed to touch the line coming in.
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