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Old December 13th, 2012, 04:20 PM   #41
disorder xj
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Originally Posted by Gunsworth View Post
ya, i dont get it either. even if it was saving 200 by driving, that wouldnt be worth my time... also no one has mentioned tax, registration, and insurance?
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He must be related to cerial.

I call it "stupid persons" logic. No matter how hard I try to get it, it just never makes any damn sense.
His time must not be worth much money.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 04:32 PM   #42
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The other thing that hasn't been mentioned... if you buy a truck, you have to factor in your insurance jump for adding another vehicle to your insurance, paying taxes and title transfer fees, plates ect.



Either borrow your buddy's 4.3 blazer or have it shipped. If it was me, i'd borrow my buddy's blazer.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 05:31 PM   #43
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Didn't you say it was only $700 to ship?
You're gonna go through the hassle of spending $1500 on a truck, spend 2 days on the road, meals, gas, hotel, all to save $80
I have quite a bit better than "stupid logic" imo.
The reason I'm only saving $80 in the above example is because everyone so far seems to think I'll be selling the truck for that much less than I got it. To be completely honest, I'm good at selling stuff, and unless the trans goes bad, I'll sell it for as much as I paid for it.
That's the point that I see that understandably you don't, because I set the example up according to everyone saying I would break down and have to sell it for less. I'll drive it for a week before I go down there, have it inspected on a lift, do preventive maintenance, likely including a tuneup, and I should make it there and back fine.
The example was buy for $1500, sell for $1200. Thus I only save $80. I say I'd buy and sell it for $1500. That isn't unrealistic, I know the lower priced car market fairly well. In that case, I save at least $380, which is worth it to me.
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I would not buy a truck for $1500 and drive down to Georgia and back just for a tub. You don't know any unknown problems that it will have. You could get down there, pick up the parts, then be 200 miles out of GA and break down and not have any money to fix your truck.
IMO It seems like too much of a hassle just for parts. Do you need to have these parts ASAP? Or are you just jumping on a good deal?
Totally understandable. Itís not going to just be like buy a car, then turn around immediately and drive to Georgia. My cars are typically $1500 btw, so the element of breakdown is technically always present. I just fix things before they have a chance to break and Iím fine. Obviously the trip to Georgia would be different, which is why Iíd try to put more care into it.
And yea, the parts need to be gone quickly, because I paid the guy for them 2 months ago and havenít had a chance to come down for them. He said he wonít hold them much past Christmas time. I did get a good deal on them, and he has other discounted parts I want to be able to pick and choose from while Iím down there too.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 05:39 PM   #44
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ya, i dont get it either. even if it was saving 200 by driving, that wouldnt be worth my time... also no one has mentioned tax, registration, and insurance?
So as I said, I have it saving me upwards of $350. Worth it to me. I’m also in between vehicles right now, so I could use the vehicle as a d.d for a week if needed.

You are absolutely, 250% correct that there are a lot of unmentioned factors thus far.
That is because the topic has been changed on me from “which truck is best” to “why are you even driving there”? I didn’t intend for it to be this, or else I would’ve given you the other necessary factors.

Last edited by 82cj7ltd; December 13th, 2012 at 05:50 PM. Reason: missed a comma :)
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Old December 13th, 2012, 05:42 PM   #45
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You know You can rent a truck from other places then u haul. I rented one from budget for 400 bucks from charleston sc. to north mi. when i moved back .


and where are You finding all these good running trucks for 1500$ .
well, I'll have to look into that thoroughly tonight and see if I can fight a good deal from a truck renting company. Was it just $400 one way? Iíve already shown that a plane ticket isnt smart, so I do need a round trip.


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He must be related to cerial.

I call it "stupid persons" logic. No matter how hard I try to get it, it just never makes any damn sense.
Again, this is because I simply illustrated the examples presented to me, not the example I had originally run through my head cost wise. You're right, the examples given to me in which I would save only $80 would be pretty stupid to follow. No worries though, I won't.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 05:48 PM   #46
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The other thing that hasn't been mentioned... if you buy a truck, you have to factor in your insurance jump for adding another vehicle to your insurance, paying taxes and title transfer fees, plates ect.



Either borrow your buddy's 4.3 blazer or have it shipped. If it was me, i'd borrow my buddy's blazer.

lol does anybody look at what I've already said?

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I'll have to see if he'll lend me his blazer. That is definitely my number one choice if he lets me, but idk if he will. And I'm NOT sure if there are any big issues with it, but if there are I know he wont let me take it.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 05:56 PM   #47
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So may I be so bold as to return to my original topic?

Is the general consensus that a 4 cyl will be under-powered for even this little of a job?
Which of the 6 cyl (I6 and v6) seem to be the best for this, providing I find one in good shape?

The ranger- 3.0, 4.0 (manual or auto)
S10- 2.5, 2.8, 4.2 (manual or auto)
F150- 4.9 I6 (manual or auto) or v8???

any other truck suggestions?
As I said, I will certainly re-investigate quotes for renting trucks. if it is as clear and obvious of a decision as disorder shows it to be (which I dont believe it is), I will rent one for $400, no questions asked. When that doesn't include gas, (why would it)? and thus puts me back up to ~$700, I think I'll still want to stick with driving down there myself.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 06:58 PM   #48
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I want to see the plethora of $1500 trucks that are not rotted out or have zero mechanical/electrical/drivability issues. I will probably buy a couple.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 07:09 PM   #49
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F No don't even put me in the same boat.

Ship it truck freight idiot. No screwing around with buying some pos that will break down and require fixing in another state. Or flipping messing wasting the amount of time driving. Just ship it truck freight and pick it up in a few days.

EASY!
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Old December 13th, 2012, 07:13 PM   #50
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Sorry for going off on you there. Just do the math. For the cost of the truck, fuel, tub, and your freaking time you can most likely buy one locally if your patient enough.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 07:31 PM   #51
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hmm ok. that's what I needed to know, thanks. So should I stay away from the automatics in these fullsize trucks? I've seen the I6 in manual and auto form. Same with the 5.0, are these reliable as autos? (which I see more of). any reason to avoid the 350 with an auto trans?

One other thing, what about a dakota? the 3.9 magnum is a good engine and they seem to be pretty good trucks. a decent amount of them are manual too.
The only reason i didn't mention the 350 is just because you were looking for a smaller truck to tow with. you'll get about 13 mpg with a 350 auto total on your trip. It'll tow the crap out of your 1,000 lb payload though. The 5.0 probably wouldn't be much better on mpg, maybe 15, but you can find them a lot easier with a manual. I just mentioned manual beacuse it'll be better mpg but an auto is just fine to, nothing really wrong as long as it doesn't have 150k+ miles on it

You can find a 2wd 4.3 chevy w/t everywhere and it'll tow it great

A dakota is great too, the 3.9 is a pretty good motor but the mpg sucks, as with any dodge. The only problem is that they a lot less common in general and are more expensive.

Really all you need to look for is something that has a good size six cylinder minimum; auto or manual doesn't matter, just personal preference. Your going to be taking a gamble no matter what you buy because you wont be able to have a good test before you go, your trip will be the test.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 07:43 PM   #52
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$700 to get the tub shipped or...

$1500 for a truck
$125 at the SOS for tax, title, and registration.
$75 for insurance for the month while you drive it and wait for it to sell.
$150 for tune-up and maintenance items to make it trip worthy.
$375 for fuel based on 1400 mile trip at 15 mpg $4.00 a gallon.
$25 for food.
-$1500 after selling the truck.
$750 grand total. That's assuming you bring someone with you and drive non-stop so no need for lodging.

I don't see where you think you will be saving so much money.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:20 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by 14muddn View Post
I want to see the plethora of $1500 trucks that are not rotted out or have zero mechanical/electrical/drivability issues. I will probably buy a couple.
I didnít say there was a plethora of them, just that Iíd be able to find a few. I donít mind if they have rust, as long as there isnít frame damage. Rockers that are rusted arenít a big deal. I wont be keeping it long.


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F No don't even put me in the same boat.

Ship it truck freight idiot. No screwing around with buying some pos that will break down and require fixing in another state. Or flipping messing wasting the amount of time driving. Just ship it truck freight and pick it up in a few days.

EASY!
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Sorry for going off on you there. Just do the math. For the cost of the truck, fuel, tub, and your freaking time you can most likely buy one locally if your patient enough.
well, that's a first. an insulting yet helpful sugestion.
shipping truck freight looks like it might actually be a bit cheaper. The only problem with that is I'd have to ship the front clip separately, which would also cost money. I just dont want it to get all scratched up and stuff and I figured I'm more careful than a couple random shipping guys. I'll look into it.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:24 PM   #54
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The only reason i didn't mention the 350 is just because you were looking for a smaller truck to tow with. you'll get about 13 mpg with a 350 auto total on your trip. It'll tow the crap out of your 1,000 lb payload though. The 5.0 probably wouldn't be much better on mpg, maybe 15, but you can find them a lot easier with a manual. I just mentioned manual beacuse it'll be better mpg but an auto is just fine to, nothing really wrong as long as it doesn't have 150k+ miles on it

You can find a 2wd 4.3 chevy w/t everywhere and it'll tow it great

A dakota is great too, the 3.9 is a pretty good motor but the mpg sucks, as with any dodge. The only problem is that they a lot less common in general and are more expensive.

Really all you need to look for is something that has a good size six cylinder minimum; auto or manual doesn't matter, just personal preference. Your going to be taking a gamble no matter what you buy because you wont be able to have a good test before you go, your trip will be the test.
cool, yea it's seeming like a 6 cyl is best for the job. I guess I'm realizing that 1k lbs isn't enough to be worrying about the clutch- assuming it isn't abused. I should be able to test it for about a week before I take it down south, if that seems better to anyone else. Thanks for your help, for actually taking this seriously, and not calling me senseless all the while. If you have anything else to add, please do. I appreciate it.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:35 PM   #55
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http://www.uship.com/ another option. Had my quad shipped to me from Arizona for 400$ it was in a big old crate too
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:41 PM   #56
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$700 to get the tub shipped or...

$1500 for a truck
$125 at the SOS for tax, title, and registration.
$75 for insurance for the month while you drive it and wait for it to sell.
$150 for tune-up and maintenance items to make it trip worthy.
$375 for fuel based on 1400 mile trip at 15 mpg $4.00 a gallon.
$25 for food.
-$1500 after selling the truck.
$750 grand total. That's assuming you bring someone with you and drive non-stop so no need for lodging.

I don't see where you think you will be saving so much money.
well first off, like I said, I didn't give all the details because this ISN'T what I asked for help on. just want to make that clear, sorry.
All the trucks I've found were $12-1500, and all said they would take $1200 or less, one would take $900. So recalculating the numbers gives:

$1200 for a truck
$110 at the SOS for tax, title, and registration.
My insurance is only $50 a month, and I will be driving it after I return home, so that doesn't even count.
$100- Of all these trucks, the most I needed was a shifter bushing. They all are older, but have recently had tuneups and such. I shouldn't be spending any more than $50 on it, but I'll split it with $150 and say
$300-Even renting a truck, I only had the fuel at ~$320. Should be less, since all the ones I'm considering get 18 or better. Likely to be <300, but I'l say .
Bringing my own food and cooler. Free.
-$1200 after selling the truck.

$510 grand total under my compromises in our price differences.
With some added details I know, it will probably end up at around $430.

THIS IS NEGLECTING THE FACT THAT THE FRONT CLIP ISNT SHIPPED FOR $700!!!!
that's another $250+, because though I get a discount for having things on the same truck, it still takes up space. I also have a box of parts, including a dash and other bulky things that will take up space.

Even given the $510 compromise, OR YOUR $750 initial guess, That's over $200 difference from yours, $400 from my in between guess, and around $470 under the fairly likely circumstances.
Why did I leave the other items details out in the first place???
Because I ASKED FOR HELP IN CHOOSING A GOOD VEHICLE NOT WHETHER OR NOT I WAS SMART, STUPID, BAD at MATH, or BAD AT DECISION MAKING!!!

I've run these numbers quite a few times, trust me. I didn't just do the first thing that popped into my head. If I was looking for brainstorming advice, I promise I would've asked. Sorry to seem so uptight, but if you look at what I started asking, and how I have to defend my thread subject from this onslaught of suggestions, I think you'd feel the same way.

edit: despite his initial comments, cerial's suggestion was helpful. I am looking into truck freight shipping, so anyone knows who may want to jump on me about it can take a rest.

Last edited by 82cj7ltd; December 13th, 2012 at 08:46 PM.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:48 PM   #57
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http://www.uship.com/ another option. Had my quad shipped to me from Arizona for 400$ it was in a big old crate too
Alright cool, I'll have to look into that, thanks.





BTW EVERYONE: My friend said the blazer wouldn't be reliable enough to take down there, so that option is out. He said he wouldn't trust it to go down there himself.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:54 PM   #58
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I used to tow a 2000lb boat with my lesabre, 10 miles one way to a lake 2 days a week minimum. Did it for a couple years without issue.

I got 20mpg towing that bitch from Saginaw to the up.

My coworker hauls a 4x8 trailer with a rzr on it to the U.P. every month with his 4cyl ranger. I rode with him once, holds 60mph but its angry.


How in the fukc are you justifying buying a sack-o-shit just to go get parts.
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:57 PM   #59
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To be clear- imo- 2k gets you a sack-o-shit.

I should know, i own 2!
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Old December 13th, 2012, 08:57 PM   #60
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I used to tow a 2000lb boat with my lesabre, 10 miles one way to a lake 2 days a week minimum. Did it for a couple years without issue.

I got 20mpg towing that bitch from Saginaw to the up.

My coworker hauls a 4x8 trailer with a rzr on it to the U.P. every month with his 4cyl ranger. I rode with him once, holds 60mph but its angry.


How in the fukc are you justifying buying a sack-o-shit just to go get parts.


have you read any of my plans yet?? If it was JUST parts, I'd get them shipped. The items are fairly large. it wont be a piece of junk, sorry to disappoint everyone.

You probably should read how this thread started. The majority of the last 2 pages have had NOTHING to do with what I originally asked about.
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