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Old September 8th, 2012, 08:45 PM   #61
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still tryin to see if I can find a good fiberglass body with a tailgate cutout. I've heard of a lot of the advantages and cons to steel vs fiberglass bodies. Don't want to lose this next body to rust, but what would be a fair price to pay for a cj7 tub from down south with only a bit of rocker panel paint bubbling/rust?
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Old September 9th, 2012, 09:24 PM   #62
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trying to figure out what body type to go with........ how many think a cj is identified as such by it's tailgate, more specifically a fold down tailgate? Debating pretty hard on steel vs glass. Wonder if I could cut a tailgate out of the fiberglass one.... and just not put weight on it. so it could fold down and something could be loaded from the rear...... but just not like sitting on the tailgate since the fiberglass wouldn't be re-enforced?

any thoughts?
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Old September 11th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #63
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If you get a Glass tub, you can cut the tailgate into it, but you WILL need to weld up a reinforcement ring/sealing flange to epoxy/glass into the body. If you dont the body will flex and crack at the opening corners at the floor.
Not a hard job, but you do need to know a bit about glassing steel into the tub so it wont rot.
It sounds harder than it really is.
Then you just use a steel CJ tailgate.

Personally I like Glass tubs, but you need to add reinforcements, especially to the newer tubs.
If your going to hang full hard doors on a glass tub, you need to run an A-pillar reinforcment from hinge to hinge and then a tube to the other side behind the dash and tie it to the other A-pillar. Most people dont, but you will get racking in the body and develop cracks at the door hinges and the floor.
Another thing you need to do is build a subframe to mount the front seats to. it needs to be tied to the roll cage and the body mounts. As a safety benefit the seat belts also need to be tied into the subframe so it acts as a unit.
All of this is just as importat with you driving it on the street as it would be offroad.
If you have question, feel free to PM me, I'll help if I can.
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Old September 11th, 2012, 04:42 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orionn View Post
If you get a Glass tub, you can cut the tailgate into it, but you WILL need to weld up a reinforcement ring/sealing flange to epoxy/glass into the body. If you dont the body will flex and crack at the opening corners at the floor.
Not a hard job, but you do need to know a bit about glassing steel into the tub so it wont rot.
It sounds harder than it really is.

Another thing you need to do is build a subframe to mount the front seats to. it needs to be tied to the roll cage and the body mounts. As a safety benefit the seat belts also need to be tied into the subframe so it acts as a unit.
are you for hire to do the above stated reinforcements to the glass tub if I get one?
and what about your view on steel tubs? obviously, rust is a drawback. if I can find a clean tub though..... no reinforcing needed right?

how do you tie any of that stuff into the frame? Seats, rollcage, seatbelts etc. like how does the rollcage mount below the tub? do you weld an extension from the frame to the bottom of the rollcage mount plates? I understand the purpose, but not how it is actually done.

so putting a tailgate on a glass tub can be done. will the tailgate only be able to be mounted at that point, or can weight be put on it when it is down?
I haven't learned to weld...... I have some friends who do though. That's interesting. so you need a reinforcement piece at the corners of the tub where the tailgate is mounted so the fiberglass doesn't crack? that's what I thought it needed, but didn't know that solution would work. cool.
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Old September 15th, 2012, 10:07 PM   #65
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unfortunately no pics..... but I did get that frame pretty much all repainted yesterday. sprayed it with wax and grease remover, sanded with 400 grit, sprayed again, and put on 3 coats of vht chassis paint. looks good. only have to do the top now next weekend.
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Old September 18th, 2012, 02:19 PM   #66
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Had an interesting thought a few days ago..... The jeep already had 33's when I got it, and the body mount bolts and bushings I took out didn't look any longer than stock...... and my driveshaft angle was already a little steep....
I think I already have like a ~2" suspension lift..... That jeep couldn't fit 33's stock. Any thoughts?
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Old September 28th, 2012, 10:56 PM   #67
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been a little while, finally got the top side of the frame painted today. looks quite nice. next week I'll be cleaning the axles off and hopefully making this frame a rolling one.

For cleaning the rust, I'm told brushing phosphoric acid on and letting it sit for a few minutes will eat through the rust. only a couple minutes though or else it'll eat into the axle! Any thoughts on this?
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Old October 1st, 2012, 08:55 PM   #68
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got the rest of the frame painted over the weekend!!

I'm going to try and get the axles and suspension on the new frame this friday. so from what I'm told, if I get some phosphoric acid and spray it on the axle so it can eat through the rust (once I get it off the old frame) then it will be a lot easier for me to sand any remaining rust off the axles and then paint them.

anything to avoid? other than not rinsing them with water and letting the acid eat through the steel.
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 10:56 PM   #69
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well.... it's been a while. I keep forgetting to take my camera with me when I go to work on the jeep. I have one little crummy picture from my phone though.

Long story short, I got both axles off the old frame, and just threw them on the new one real quick, didn't mount up the rear of the rear shackles or the front of the front. Just the front rear springs bolted in and the rear front ones.

Probably won't be able to get much more done before spring. Next step was going to be to de-rust the axles with acid, but they may get blasted eventually, I'm not sure.
Would blasting the axles take more metal off then I want? Or if I used a softer media that wouldn't affect it??

K so here's my lousy pic
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 11:50 PM   #70
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Other good news is.... I found a cj tub!! I think I'm going to be able to arrange for it to be picked up.... it's in Georgia!!

Unfortunately the top and hard doors were already sold by the time I saw the ad (lol i don't look in the atlanta craigslist very often). But it's a nice midnight blue color. No tailgate... but I think that when the time comes, if I still want it badly enough, I will be able to fab one up, or get help on it at least. Can't let that deter me from getting a body altogether.

He says he has another front bumper like the one in the pic except stronger. I may look into that as well.

Anyone ever heard of a dash pad cover? He has a handful of them and says that
"it's like a hard plastic but thin, kinda like the old school halloween mask, only a little thicker. It just fits right over the original pad." It doesn't have the jeep logo on it, but I guess it protects the typical cracked dash. Not sure.

Here are pics of the tub and front clip, as well as the dash pad cover. Also I made the previous picture I posted a bit bigger. The rear tail lights are obviously not stock... but I've never seen any modded like that before? Anyone else? Look like they could be led's?
anyways.. here it all is.














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Old November 3rd, 2012, 10:08 PM   #71
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nobody?

any opinions on whether I should go with the stock bumper that's just a steel bar.... or a tube bumper? I've always thought those tube bumpers were weaker for some reason. Like they look less strong than the stock on to me just because I feel like you'd pull the bumper right off the front of the jeep since it's so high up and far from where it's mounted.
I guess it depends if it's bolted on or welded.
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Old November 4th, 2012, 08:30 AM   #72
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Looks to be a fiberglass tub. And no those aren't stock lights. They look like recessed trailer LEDs. If you are looking for a tub, dmcjeep usually has some. Check with him since he is a lot closer than Atlanta. As for bumpers, big tube bumpers are way out dated. I'd say save up and buy quality one from jcr or another Michigan fabrication company.
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Old November 4th, 2012, 07:29 PM   #73
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Quote:
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Looks to be a fiberglass tub. And no those aren't stock lights. They look like recessed trailer LEDs. If you are looking for a tub, dmcjeep usually has some. Check with him since he is a lot closer than Atlanta. As for bumpers, big tube bumpers are way out dated. I'd say save up and buy quality one from jcr or another Michigan fabrication company.
o yea.. i know its a fiberglass tub and that the tail lights aren't stock.... just was wondering if they were led's or not....
and I met a few people and made some connections and one of the connections is going to be heading down to georgia and picking up the tub for me.

He's already going to be down there, so he said he could pick it up since I helped him find a good deal on something else too.

hmmm so tube bumpers are outdated?? yea those rear bumpers on jcr look pretty cool..... but what about the front bumper?? I wasn't planning on putting a winch on it.... and all of those bumpers are built around winches.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 08:05 AM   #74
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Those tail lights appear to be the older, non-LED version trailer lights.
I used the same lights in my old CJ5.
They can be replaced with LEDs for about $15 ea.
Just about anyone who builds bumpers will sell you a non-winch version.
They generaly advertise the winch version because they are more popular.
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Old November 8th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #75
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Quote:
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Those tail lights appear to be the older, non-LED version trailer lights.
I used the same lights in my old CJ5.
They can be replaced with LEDs for about $15 ea.
Just about anyone who builds bumpers will sell you a non-winch version.
They generaly advertise the winch version because they are more popular.
ok good to know.
so all of these jcr cj bumpers are pretty good? is the arching piece (what's it called?) that like protects the top area of the winch necessary? Any problem with just a plain old frame mounted tube bumper? here are some jcr bumpers with the piece that extends away from the bumper.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=SWBB
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