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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:03 PM   #21
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Correct. You will not lose volume with a ball valve. You will lose volume with a valved coupler.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:07 PM   #22
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A non valved coupler is straight thru. A valved coupler has a valve inside. The fluid has to flow around the valve.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:09 PM   #23
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Correct. You will not lose volume with a ball valve. You will lose volume with a valved coupler.
Step up the hose size (if you have to) and get properly sized (meaning big enough not to reduce flow) quick disconnects. What is the problem with this??
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:13 PM   #24
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So I just asked an engineer of a Tier 1 automotive supplier. He said with regards to flow, the hydraulics shouldn't matter( and should already be quick disconnects), the air, doesn't matter. With a properly sized and designed quick connect for the coolant water, it was explained with works like volumetric surface, and other big words that my spell checker cries trying to decipher, but the end result is the reduced flow will be so minimal it won't be a factor. The then said to check out Parker Pneumatics. That is where they get their stuff from.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...t&vgnextfmt=EN
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:15 PM   #25
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So did Mr.Green.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
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That's the difference between pressure and volume. Imagine a valved coupler on your fire hose. The pressure will go up and the volume will go down. You rely on the volume of water to put out the fire.
Right, and when we have a long hose lay, because we need to volume, and step up to a bigger hose. Sounds like that's what needs to be done here also.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:40 PM   #27
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Haggar, the water comes in and out of the mold via a temperature control unit and circulates the water at a certain temp, so we cannot blow anything backwards into the system. We unhook the temp controllers and loop them so water can circulate and wont burn up the pumps.

We unhook the lines at every mold change which is anywhere from 5 to 15 mold changes a day between 26 machines..
I will ask some of the ME guys if I think about it tomorrow. We do tons of plastic mold (we do interiors, so lots of decorative plastics)... but I'm an EE, as long as your don't polarize the plastic, use a mold release that contaminates the boards in humidity, etc, I'm happy.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:45 PM   #28
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1/4 ball valve is the easiest and cheapest solution.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 08:50 PM   #29
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Right, and when we have a long hose lay, because we need to volume, and step up to a bigger hose. Sounds like that's what needs to be done here also.
This is an option he could consider. But it will require a company wide changeover.

The ball valve might work also if there is enough room to package it.
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Old September 19th, 2012, 11:23 PM   #30
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Sounds like you need a good maintenance man there to show you how.
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Old September 20th, 2012, 06:17 AM   #31
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The BST-10 quick connect you currently use is rated at 76 GPM. A 60 series H-12 will flow 100 GPM.
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Old September 20th, 2012, 08:57 AM   #32
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Why not run a line from IN to OUT before removing mold from from machine.

Leave this line with mold at machine while running and attached to mold when not in use.
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Old September 20th, 2012, 12:24 PM   #33
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Use an air nozzle with a fitting to hook up to the in line, put the out line in a bucket and
blow the water out. Assuming you have shut-off valves on the press manifolds.
No water on the floor. Process technician, been doing this for 22 years.
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Old September 20th, 2012, 12:40 PM   #34
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Actually after looking at diagram better I see manifold is in the tool.
At the thermolator put a T fitting with a ball valve between thermolator and T fitting.
off of the T fitting put another valve and air fitting on the in line and a drain line on the return line. shut off both valves at the thermolator ,open the T fitting valves and
apply air. may need to shut off the individual lines on the tool to insure all the water gets out of the tool.
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