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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:04 AM   #41
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My barn had size limits set by the township ...........storage is always an issue, taking up valuable floor space.
I added 2' to the sidewalls (14') and used scissors trusses. Was able to put a 15' clear height door in the gable end.
This easily enabled me to put in loft space anywhere. The center height then becomes 18' clear. Added cost is minimal.

BTW I have 4' frost walls .
I always hear scissor truss cost a good bit more. My original plans were to do something like this. Or maybe scissors over a section.

I don't want walls taller than 12ft, with my max height of 20ft. That same height restriction ends up limiting what I can do with any kind of upstairs, unless I went with a gambrel roof, which I don't want.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:12 AM   #42
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I always hear scissor truss cost a good bit more. My original plans were to do something like this. Or maybe scissors over a section.

I don't want walls taller than 12ft, with my max height of 20ft. That same height restriction ends up limiting what I can do with any kind of upstairs, unless I went with a gambrel roof, which I don't want.

Could you have a section of the barn with a lower ceiling? This would give you more room up top? 12' walls, 10' ceiling on first level.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:15 AM   #43
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Are you doing a steel roof or a shingled roof? If you are doing a steel roof I would stay away from any side doors as the snow will slide off the roof and than you will have BIG piles of snow to deal with in front of the doors. It can be a real pain to remove that snow all the time. Of course thats assumeing that it is going to snow in Mi again.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:17 AM   #44
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Do you find that is an efficient way to heat? What kind of cost was it?
I have natural gas so that helps a ton. But yes, it really doesn't cost me a whole lot. I really didn't notice a difference in our monthly bills but we are on the equal monthly thing with consumers. It actually went down a lot for this upcoming year since we had such a warm winter. I have it on a thermostat set at around 52-55 while I'm not in there and usually kick it up to 60-64 while Im in there working. The thermostat is kinda in the line of fire so to speak with the heat so it's not super accurate. It gets warmed by the rays pretty quick and shuts off so the whole shop isn't at 60. I would say it stays around 50-52, which is perfect for me. If I'm in there working and it kicks on I have to peal off the sweatshirt after a couple minutes. I have it along the back wall at a 45 degree angle. It cost around $1800-2000 and it's a two stage unit. I put it up myself.
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Originally Posted by itselliott View Post
13.5' sidewall..........scissors truss? or rafters? They made me keep the ridge line at 23'6"


Or did you use attic trusses? I needed the center height to put my boat in (14'6' on the trailer) I then horseshoed the loft space around the boat and crane.
Not sure the technical name but I have a full set of stairs and the trusses are 2x12 or 2x14. They look like regular trusses but made with a giant hole framed into the center of them. They cost and extra $140 dollars each at the time over regular trusses and they had to change the pitch a bit so there was some extra plywood and shingles. I think overall it was an extra 4k for the upstairs. But again, it added a shitload of storage or even a game room or something if I wanted.

Last edited by Tab; September 16th, 2012 at 09:21 AM.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:20 AM   #45
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I have natural gas so that helps a ton. But yes, it really doesn't cost me a whole lot. I really didn't notice a difference in our monthly bills but we are on the equal monthly thing with consumers. It actually went down a lot for this upcoming year since we had such a warm winter. I have it on a thermostat set at around 52-55 while I'm not in there and usually kick it up to 60-64 while Im in there working. The thermostat is kinda in the line of fire so to speak with the heat so it's not super accurate. It gets warmed by the rays pretty quick and shuts off so the whole shop isn't at 60. I would say it stays around 50-52, which is perfect for me. If I'm in there working and it kicks on I have to peal off the sweatshirt after a couple minutes. I have it along the back wall at a 45 degree angle. It cost around $1800-2000 and it's a two stage unit. I put it up myself.


Not sure the technical name but I have a full set of stairs and the trusses are 2x12 or 2x14. They look like regular trusses but made with a giant hole framed into the center of them. They cost and extra $114 dollars each at the time over regular trusses and they had to change the pitch a bit so there was some extra plywood and shingles. I think overall it was an extra 4k for the upstairs. But again, it added a shitload of storage or even a game room or something if I wanted.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:27 AM   #46
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I also finished the inside with metal barn siding. If you get what's called a liner panel it's cheaper per foot because the paint has no uv protection and it's meant for the inside. I got it in white so to help with brightening it up. All my wiring is in conduit, which is nice if you ever want to add onto or change something later. But kinda a pain to put in since I had no power out there till almost everything else was done. I can spray down my walls and wash the entire shop to get the plasma dust off everything.....not that I do though
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Old September 16th, 2012, 09:32 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
I always hear scissor truss cost a good bit more. My original plans were to do something like this. Or maybe scissors over a section.

I don't want walls taller than 12ft, with my max height of 20ft. That same height restriction ends up limiting what I can do with any kind of upstairs, unless I went with a gambrel roof, which I don't want.

RE : the max height.

On investigating that , I discovered that it is actually the average height of the roof. Ridge height + wall height, divide by 2. That's how I got what I did .


Tab, square box in the middle is an attic or storage truss.

Last edited by itselliott; September 16th, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 10:07 AM   #48
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I would definitely put a 42" frost wall over the 24"
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Old September 16th, 2012, 10:22 AM   #49
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RE : the max height.

On investigating that , I discovered that it is actually the average height of the roof. Ridge height + wall height, divide by 2. That's how I got what I did .


Tab, square box in the middle is an attic or storage truss.
I've heard some places allow that type of calculation, I need to check with the building inspector, he told me 20ft to the peak, I believe.


Here's a quick sketchup of my thought, this is 30x50x12

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Old September 16th, 2012, 10:28 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by itselliott View Post
RE : the max height.

On investigating that , I discovered that it is actually the average height of the roof. Ridge height + wall height, divide by 2. That's how I got what I did .


Tab, square box in the middle is an attic or storage truss.
It's common to measure height that way but it can vary by municipality.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 11:25 AM   #51
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I've heard some places allow that type of calculation, I need to check with the building inspector, he told me 20ft to the peak, I believe.
Don't go by 1 man's "say so"

The town's main man told me "no" several times. He even tried to railroad the meeting when I asked for printed information. When all was said and done..........he was full of it.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 12:53 PM   #52
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About all of these add-ons, it comes back to money.

I have a quote on a 30x40x12, with the 2+1 doors. I have maybe $2-$4 extra I can put into it. Thats where its tricky, where to spend it. Insulation in the slab? White Ceiling tin? 30x48 instead of 30x40? Attic trusses instead of regular?

The budget is the budget.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 01:20 PM   #53
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The budget is the budget.
clearly you'll never get elected to congress with that attitude...
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Old September 16th, 2012, 03:53 PM   #54
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I'd try to build it a 32x whatever if you can. If you ever plan to pull a full size extended cab or crew cab in the barn, the extra couple of feet will give you room to have storage or work bench on the far wall with room to walk around or work still. The extra cost will be worth it in the long run, so you are not cussing trying to work in there.
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Old September 16th, 2012, 05:26 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
About all of these add-ons, it comes back to money.

I have a quote on a 30x40x12, with the 2+1 doors. I have maybe $2-$4 extra I can put into it. Thats where its tricky, where to spend it. Insulation in the slab? White Ceiling tin? 30x48 instead of 30x40? Attic trusses instead of regular?

The budget is the budget.
I think you should insulate the rat walls. If you do decide to put insulation under the slab, put some on the side too
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