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Old July 28th, 2012, 06:33 PM   #21
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Cool Build. I am watching this one. Thanks for the help over on Expo. Getting ready to start the tear down of my M416 next weekend. Debating on whether or not to get mine sand blasted.

Jeff
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Old July 28th, 2012, 09:46 PM   #22
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Cool Build. I am watching this one. Thanks for the help over on Expo. Getting ready to start the tear down of my M416 next weekend. Debating on whether or not to get mine sand blasted.

Jeff
That will eventually happen to mine. I just want to try to get it sorted out. When I get a house with a garage and barn then I can tear it apart and make it pretty.

The Coleman outlet was having a truckload sale and I ended up dropping some coin there today in preparation for the trailer and our trip.

Picked up 2 of these for inside of the lid when at camp. They may get used elsewhere, but I thought they may be good for that.



Picked this up because the wife wanted it for the trailer.



Also got a lantern holder and some other things.
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Old July 29th, 2012, 07:52 AM   #23
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Sand blasting these trailers is a good idea but, not as simple as it sounds. The one that I did was a lot of work. The military paint was some tough stuff and many layers thick.
I was useing a commercial walk in sand blaster with steel shot. The paint came off so slowly that it was faster to use paint stipper and a scraper taking off one to two layers at a time. Then I blasted it afterwards.
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Old July 29th, 2012, 09:25 PM   #24
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Sand blasting these trailers is a good idea but, not as simple as it sounds. The one that I did was a lot of work. The military paint was some tough stuff and many layers thick.
I was useing a commercial walk in sand blaster with steel shot. The paint came off so slowly that it was faster to use paint stipper and a scraper taking off one to two layers at a time. Then I blasted it afterwards.
Yeah the CARC is tough stuff. Mine is flaking off in areas, yet seems rather solid in others. You have to be careful with this stuff if you grind on it, sand it, or strip it. It is pretty toxic and can cause silicosis (sp). Full respirator is a must. If stripping it, the remnants should be disposed of properly. I have heard others using aircraft stripper covered with wet newspaper/saran wrap and letting it sit. I guess this process works well as the newspaper will keep the stripper from evaporating to quickly. I may give it a try. I am sure it will make quite a toxic mess though.

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Old July 31st, 2012, 09:57 PM   #25
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I'm on the road, but Jeepaholic sent me some pictures from tonight!



He removed the brake handle and is going to mount it horizontally under the box. This allowed him to tuck the box further back and lower.





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Old August 2nd, 2012, 09:07 PM   #26
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More pics from tonight...

Marine pull switch, first position turns on the invertor, second position turns on the battery meter and invertor



AC Connection/charger connection



Removable tail light pigtail







Tail light boxes





it will be a knee catcher, but it works.



Painted the front preparing for the box. Most of the old paint was in decent shape so I knocked off the loose stuff then primed. Messing with the CARC or whatever it is called is not on my agenda anytime soon.



It was about this point we realized the fender had gotten bent.



I cut it loose, and Adam will get it welded back up, there will be diamond plate on the top as a step



Some pics with the box setting in place





Also trying to figure out where to mount the spare since the back will have a kitchen area... I may just mount it and get a portable kitchen.

Last edited by jeepfreak81; August 2nd, 2012 at 10:26 PM.
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 08:28 AM   #27
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I like your corner jack idea, but I would have mouted the light box vertical. Then angled the little rail from the fender in to the light box.
That knee knocker will also catch on passing trees, stumps and brush. Angled in, it would be less likely to do so.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old August 3rd, 2012, 08:58 AM   #28
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I like your corner jack idea, but I would have mouted the light box vertical. Then angled the little rail from the fender in to the light box.
That knee knocker will also catch on passing trees, stumps and brush. Angled in, it would be less likely to do so.
Just my 2 cents.
I wanted to maximize the step/shelf space. I am also being realistic, this is Michigan. The only real trails this trailer might make it on are some two-tracks and maybe some tight stuff. It was a trade off, but I think it will be a good one considering this may only go west a couple times in its lifetime.
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Old August 4th, 2012, 10:53 PM   #29
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Right rear welded up



Adam welding the right rear



Start of the lift mech



Box bolted down



Since the lights will be routed into the box to charge the battery, I got this to route them out and still retain the reverse lights, better than a grommet as I can remove the box if need be without cutting the harness.





Front step going on





Fitting the generator



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Old August 6th, 2012, 10:06 PM   #30
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More:



Had a change in plans for the switches when I found this marine panel. Adam is already making the change











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Old August 6th, 2012, 10:31 PM   #31
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Something to consider concerning the tongue jack / stabilizer you've mounted. I used basically the same thing on my teardrop that I built. I thought it was good and secure. However, once you crawl in it it's surprising how much play there really is. The thing moves a bunch when you roll over. You'll have the same problem with your RTT mounted.

If I did it all over again, I would consider something like these as they would remove any play from the trailer. They can be found cheaper but this was the first that came up when I googled it. They mount underneath without really taking up any clearance and deploy easily without having the knee banger issue.
http://www.amazon.com/BAL-23025-Stab...abilizer+jacks

On the other hand, leaving the trailer hooked to the vehicle pretty much removes all movement when you sleep in it anyway. Generally, I just quickly hook back up if the trailer was disconnected and go to bed.
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Old August 6th, 2012, 10:46 PM   #32
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Something to consider concerning the tongue jack / stabilizer you've mounted. I used basically the same thing on my teardrop that I built. I thought it was good and secure. However, once you crawl in it it's surprising how much play there really is. The thing moves a bunch when you roll over. You'll have the same problem with your RTT mounted.

If I did it all over again, I would consider something like these as they would remove any play from the trailer. They can be found cheaper but this was the first that came up when I googled it. They mount underneath without really taking up any clearance and deploy easily without having the knee banger issue.
http://www.amazon.com/BAL-23025-Stab...abilizer+jacks

On the other hand, leaving the trailer hooked to the vehicle pretty much removes all movement when you sleep in it anyway. Generally, I just quickly hook back up if the trailer was disconnected and go to bed.
Wait until you see the lift mech, the play in those jacks will be the least of my worries

I am hoping it isn't too bad, but I will find out in a couple weeks. I'm hoping Adam gets the lift mechanism mostly done this week/next week so we can try to work the kinks out before our trip.
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Old August 7th, 2012, 12:29 AM   #33
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lol. Well you may have a point there. The other thing was all the noise those tongue jacks make. You don't think of it until you wake yourself up numerous times during the night every time you move. But your tent lift will likely make noise too so it's probably moot.
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Old August 10th, 2012, 09:29 PM   #34
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Shelf/step for generator on.



Rear welded on, he is not welding these to the trailer in case the fender becomes damaged. Just to the frame, and supports underneath.



Rear receiver mocked into position



Right rear mocked into position



The rest of the lid.







And the u-bolts make the perfect chain hangers Adam figured out.

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Old August 10th, 2012, 09:50 PM   #35
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Rear receiver mocked into position


Hey Jacob,

Nice progress.

Consider welding the receiver tube flush with the rear crossmember (well, 1/4 out for enough weld surface) to gain more clearance. The pin on mine is underneath, and while it's a little more inconvenient to get stuff hooked up, it's not bad, has a clean look, and gives a better departure. Just a thought.

Craig

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Old August 10th, 2012, 09:59 PM   #36
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Craig,

It would be a good idea, except that my spare tire will be mounted right above it. The one on the flatty we put in pretty tight, and now I cannot use the receiver for things like bike racks and stuff because they hit the jerry can on the back of the jeep (about the same thickness as my spare)

I am not changing out the axle because all my rigs have different bolt patterns anyway. I wish I could ditch the spare.

The H3 will have Yakima trays on it, but down the road if I am towing with something else I may need the hitch mounted rack.
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Old August 10th, 2012, 10:02 PM   #37
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Craig,

It would be a good idea, except that my spare tire will be mounted right above it. The one on the flatty we put in pretty tight, and now I cannot use the receiver for things like bike racks and stuff because they hit the jerry can on the back of the jeep (about the same thickness as my spare)
That makes perfect sense.
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Old August 12th, 2012, 09:52 PM   #38
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Ok so bear with me when you see how the electrical is shaping up in the box. There will only be very light loads on any of the electrical in this thing at any one time as most of the lighting will be LED. The only thing I have not decided if I want to splurge on are LED backup/spot lamps as we usually do get to camp late/set up in the dark.

The outdoor outlet mounted on the bottom of the box has 2- 110v outlets. 1 outlet will run directly off any 110v that is plugged into the opposite side of the box. Probably unnecessary as the post at a campsite with 110v, but I felt it would be a nice option. The other 110v outlet will be powered by the commercial invertor that will be inside the tongue box. I may change this down the road to work 100% off the invertor, it would be as simple as unplugging from the power strip, and plugging into the invertor.

The 12V outlet on the side can run off 110v --> 12v convertor or the battery itself. There probably will be a battery tender inside the box eventually as well.

All but the main switch panel mounted and sealed in place





The 110V, 1 side is from the battery/invertor and the other works when plugged into the pole







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Old August 18th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #39
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The Tongue box coming together



Functional tail lights



Lid fit



Some fit damage to smooth



The other side is worse



Picked this up used with a shower attachment and case

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Old August 18th, 2012, 05:34 PM   #40
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Well, the 110V welder that we have used to build a few jeeps seems to be giving up, so we hauled the trailer to my dads and his 220v welder was the rescue!



Welding up the lift frame



Welding on the lid to the lid base, automotive seam sealer will seal the rest before paint.



Mocking up the lift frame



Making brackets



Left front so far



Welding on the rear lid cap



Cutting out the front lid cap



Mocked into place



Closer view



Had to quit early today



Rear view in the light, hitch installed



Drivers side view



Spare tire holder in the hitch mount



Sits fairly tight to the trailer, but you cannot tell in this. This is where it will be for now anyway.

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