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Old May 31st, 2012, 05:42 PM   #1
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Default OBD1 Scan tool needed

Does anyone have an OBD1 scan tool that I might be able to borrow? Have starting problems with me 95 Cutlass and can't figure it out. It has good spark and fuel pressure, but doesn't want to start.

Thanks
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Old May 31st, 2012, 06:11 PM   #2
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you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.
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Old May 31st, 2012, 08:42 PM   #3
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you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.
you jump two terminals on GM, you cycle the key for Chrysler. The two are completely different and not used together.
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Old May 31st, 2012, 08:44 PM   #4
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Does anyone have an OBD1 scan tool that I might be able to borrow? Have starting problems with me 95 Cutlass and can't figure it out. It has good spark and fuel pressure, but doesn't want to start.

Thanks
check injector pulse as well, then do a compression test. OBDI isn't advanced enough to tell you much for this problem, especially if the check engine light hasn't been set off.
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Old May 31st, 2012, 08:57 PM   #5
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you jump two terminals on GM, you cycle the key for Chrysler. The two are completely different and not used together.
this
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Old June 1st, 2012, 07:29 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Wheelman View Post
you dont need a tool just jump the two terminals next to each other on the obd port with a wire or paper clip. Then turn the key on and off 3 time the last time leaving it in the on position the last time. Then count the flashes on the check engine light. It will blink a few time then pause then blink again. Like Blink,Blink, Pause Blink,Blink,Blink and that would be 23. It will repeat the code 3 times.
I tried to do this the other day and it didn't do anything. This only works on OBD1 ports that have a terminal in both the A and B slots, mine doesn't. This is why I was looking for a scan tool.
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Old June 1st, 2012, 07:32 AM   #7
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check injector pulse as well, then do a compression test. OBDI isn't advanced enough to tell you much for this problem, especially if the check engine light hasn't been set off.
Thanks for the advice, will check into how to check for injector pulse. I don't believe the check engine light came on when the car died on me. I tried using starting fluid, but that didn't do anything, but it is not easy to use starting fluid on the design of this engine (3.4L DOHC)
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Old June 1st, 2012, 08:13 AM   #8
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Only a slight hi-jack.

What is the process for checking OBD-I codes on a Ford
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Old June 1st, 2012, 09:20 AM   #9
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Only a slight hi-jack.

What is the process for checking OBD-I codes on a Ford
My Haynes repair manual showed how to jumper the port for my car. It might say how to do in for your Ford in the Haynes manual for the vehicle you are trying.
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Old June 1st, 2012, 09:31 AM   #10
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For injector pulse u need a noid light
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 10:46 AM   #11
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picked up a noid light and the injector pulse checks out fine. Time to find another piece to the puzzle
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Old June 2nd, 2012, 01:32 PM   #12
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My Haynes repair manual showed how to jumper the port for my car. It might say how to do in for your Ford in the Haynes manual for the vehicle you are trying.
Thanks, I don't have any books for it yet. Looks like I need to get one.
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 09:40 AM   #13
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pull the cover off the timing belt make sure it's still there. i have fixed a few of those DOHC engines where the belt decided to snap. it's a royal pain in the ass to fix too.
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 10:42 AM   #14
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I'm not sure how the ignition system and injectors are fired on those, but generally, if you lose the timing belt, you will also lose 1 or both of those.
I would lift the fuel rail with the injectors still in it, and check the spray pattern (kill the ignition system first) then check compression.
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 10:45 AM   #15
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Coyote Red, on OBDI Fords, check this link:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 06:35 PM   #16
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pull the cover off the timing belt make sure it's still there. i have fixed a few of those DOHC engines where the belt decided to snap. it's a royal pain in the ass to fix too.
Had already checked that. Belt is fine and looks almost new. It is tight on the gears as well.
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 06:38 PM   #17
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I'm not sure how the ignition system and injectors are fired on those, but generally, if you lose the timing belt, you will also lose 1 or both of those.
I would lift the fuel rail with the injectors still in it, and check the spray pattern (kill the ignition system first) then check compression.
Thought about removing the injectors and rail and trying it out, but the design of this engine would make it very hard to do without having to remove part of the intake manifold.
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