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Old May 13th, 2012, 12:22 AM   #21
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That would sound like turbo issue then right?

Any chance you have a boost leak?
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Old May 24th, 2012, 09:38 AM   #22
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HAven't had a chance to do anything till this morning, I drove it into work though. Gonna do a mech fuel pump today. I did do a buzz test and it came back with an IDM fault.

Went and bought a bed camper and it seemed to tow fine, also towed the torino to work and back and seemed okay then as well. But niether weigh what the eb ways for load on the truck.
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Old May 24th, 2012, 12:25 PM   #23
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Pump seemed to not really make a difference, I am hitting 10 psi now, starting to think maybe my boost gauge isn't reading right.

Also checked the line off the pass manifold and it isn't leaking, but didn't remove it to see if its plugged yet.

Its flaggin a p1298 idm fault code at the end of the buzz test but still passing the cyl. contribution test.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 08:22 PM   #24
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Made a run to R&V today, same run I have made probably 2 dozen times before and never got worse then 14-15mpg, averaged 10.2 today .
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Old May 27th, 2012, 10:50 PM   #25
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damn son!

How is the turbo itself? Any play?
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Old May 27th, 2012, 10:55 PM   #26
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Blades look good and no play in the impeller.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 11:06 PM   #27
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I would check the ebpv tube. Mine was rusted in half. I replaced it and the truck runs sooooo much better. Smoother, I don't get the shimmy i use to get on the freeway when running 70+mph, more power, more boost, better mpg and I dont run as much boost going down the road as it use to.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 12:01 AM   #28
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With a broken tube your gonna run less boost as it loses through the break. I have checked mine and its not broken. If I get time ill try and remove it to see if restricted. I had iit off last summer and cleaned out when I replaced the sensor at the end of it.

As far as boost I don't know, but I think some of the power loss is the 256k mileage torque converter behind the motor.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 02:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapThrillB2 View Post
When the tube was plugged and the sensor bad before, I had no noticeable issues outside of the driving when the truck was cold. Still gonna pull it anyways and check it.

But if I have lack of boost, but have no issues with rpms or getting to high rpms quickly, and no restrictions in the inlet/outlet of the system as far as exhaust and air filter. If I can easily get to 3K in rpms shouldn't it still build normal boost pressures regardless of any sensors or similar not working right messing with fuel?

I could see struggling with rpms and not getting boost, but I have no issues getting up to high rpms.
A few issues I noticed with this conversation, and your quote hit it spot on, the EBP sensor on this truck is only used to modulate the EBV. It does not control boost or fuel mapping so a bad EBP sensor only affected the butterfly. This is all controlled by your MAP sensor. (There will be critics of this statement, but it's true). The 7.3L ran like a true diesel, unlike the 6.0 and 6.4 which don't really use the MAP for true boost.

In cases of low boost and slow to build RPM on this truck, I wouldn't be looking to the boost system itself considering you've eliminated an exhaust restriction, intake/exhaust leak and damaged turbo. As long as the MAP's functioning correctly, I would look towards the high pressure oil system. A lack of fuel injected into your cylinder results in less exhaust flow which means less turbo spin equalling low boost. A weak high pressure oil pump can occur with your type of mileage (unless I missed somewhere were you replaced it??) resulting in weak performance but not necessarily low RPMs. Verify the ICP sensor is not contaminated with oil due to an internal leak. The key on engine off ICP voltage should be .18-.24v. No issues there then try and get a scanner to monitor the ICP pressure at start up and under WOT. Please forgive me, I don't remember the exact pressure readings to monitor. I also lean this way because your fuel pressure looks good... 45 PSI or higher under all driving conditions was our rule of thumb. Compression... sure, but later.

The P1298 DTC, if I recall correctly, means there is a DTC in your IDM but it cannot be transmitted to the PCM. This happens because there are 4 communication lines between the modules. Two for IDM-PCM SYNC and two for back-and-forth communication. I've seen this DTC caused by an aftermarket module installed between the IDM-PCM or damaged wires. It is possible there is an IDM fault that's plauging you or it is a complete Bull-Crap code.

Last edited by ThinICE; May 28th, 2012 at 02:07 AM.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 03:40 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinICE View Post
A few issues I noticed with this conversation, and your quote hit it spot on, the EBP sensor on this truck is only used to modulate the EBV. It does not control boost or fuel mapping so a bad EBP sensor only affected the butterfly. This is all controlled by your MAP sensor. (There will be critics of this statement, but it's true). The 7.3L ran like a true diesel, unlike the 6.0 and 6.4 which don't really use the MAP for true boost.

In cases of low boost and slow to build RPM on this truck, I wouldn't be looking to the boost system itself considering you've eliminated an exhaust restriction, intake/exhaust leak and damaged turbo. As long as the MAP's functioning correctly, I would look towards the high pressure oil system. A lack of fuel injected into your cylinder results in less exhaust flow which means less turbo spin equalling low boost. A weak high pressure oil pump can occur with your type of mileage (unless I missed somewhere were you replaced it??) resulting in weak performance but not necessarily low RPMs. Verify the ICP sensor is not contaminated with oil due to an internal leak. The key on engine off ICP voltage should be .18-.24v. No issues there then try and get a scanner to monitor the ICP pressure at start up and under WOT. Please forgive me, I don't remember the exact pressure readings to monitor. I also lean this way because your fuel pressure looks good... 45 PSI or higher under all driving conditions was our rule of thumb. Compression... sure, but later.

The P1298 DTC, if I recall correctly, means there is a DTC in your IDM but it cannot be transmitted to the PCM. This happens because there are 4 communication lines between the modules. Two for IDM-PCM SYNC and two for back-and-forth communication. I've seen this DTC caused by an aftermarket module installed between the IDM-PCM or damaged wires. It is possible there is an IDM fault that's plauging you or it is a complete Bull-Crap code.
ICP voltage about 1 cruising and 3.0 WOT
Inj control pressure approx 2500 at wot

All the diag/symptom charts seem to start with a no start with the code I am getting from the IDM, but I have never had a no start condition or even a hard start.

I don't have access to a scanner today. But like I thought the ebv tube is not restricted nor damaged. The last week or so I have been able to get 10 psi of boost, but today its back to only reaching 5psi. I went out and unplugged the map and drove it with no difference other then the shift points seemed firmer. I then changed out the cam sensor with a new one I have kept in the glove box since I purchased the truck and it had no change either.


I can't say for sure as I don't drive the truck often and rarely ever through the winter, but if I had to say I think the idle is ever so slightly rougher. I honestly cant tell but it just 'feels" off from what I thought it had been and almost to me sounds just a hair different at idle as well. I can't say for sure but its just this slight observation. It might not be at all different then its ever been but just a feeling.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 04:44 PM   #31
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If you can get a fuel pressure gage on it so you can see the incoming pressure from the frame rail mounted electric pump it needs to be around 60 psi at 40 to 50 the truck will run just not very well . One of mine did that . Changed the pump and everything came back .
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Old May 29th, 2012, 07:33 PM   #32
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The 7.3L engine should put out 17-19 PSI boost in optimal conditions, or at least 15 with higher mileage. I'd be a little concerned about the ICP at 2500 PSI under WOT. The pump on this system can create 5000 PSI and should start the engine at 500-700 PSI.

If you notice your truck has lower power after getting to operating temperature, or has a hard time starting when hot only, I'd look to a weak high pressure oil pump.

It's hard to work through the forum... do you have any more details about the power loss condition?
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Old May 29th, 2012, 09:56 PM   #33
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It seemed worse cold and better at operating temp.

I have the trans out now as I am replacing the known clapped out converter since I bought the truck. While out I am replacing the gaskets at the manifold y pipes to turbo as there is traces of black around the gaskets. Unfortantly 3 of 4 bolts holding the pipes to turbo broke and had to cut the 4 bolts at the manifold. What a nightmare. Gonna look into deleting the ebv from the turbo while I am at work tomorrow as well.



I didn't see any large leaks or obvious other then the small amount of black off the y pipes. But the back of the pass head seemed to have alot of soot on it.

Last edited by CheapThrillB2; May 29th, 2012 at 10:06 PM.
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Old May 30th, 2012, 02:25 PM   #34
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Had three broken bolts, drilled and helicoiled 2 of them, while doing the third the collector broke. Turns out I was leaking from around the actuator rod on the ebv. Was hoping to get this done tonight but can't get another collector till tomorrow .


Trying to find somehwere local that might have that collector today but coming up empty. Dealer is tomorrow out of chicago. Any ideas?

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Old June 2nd, 2012, 10:19 AM   #35
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I haven't had a chance to check my mpg from yesterday, but everything is better in the powerstroke world.

I replaced my torque converter with a "RV" style from d&e. While there replaced the leaking up pipe gaskets at the collector. These had been leaking since I purchased the truck, not bad, but could see the traces of black around them. Which led to removing the turbo after the up pipe to collector bolts broke. While having the turbo off I gutted the ebpv actuator as it was leaking oil, as well as removed the butterfly and rod. Replaced the pedastal orings.

Now to admit stupidty....

While I was under the hood messing with the turbo I pulled the boost line out of the grommet where it attached via the map sensor hose. When I went to reinstall the small line into the grommet I found the backside of the grommet (out of sight) had been ripped line to line. Which I assume was giving me my low boost readings at the gauge as well loosing boost for the motor.

So now with all this done, I seen 22-23 psi of boost. A def increase in power from cruising to accel up hills, appears a drop of 50-100 rpms at cruise speed. SLightly lower egts. As well I have always had a "double bump" feel to the 2-3 or 3-4 shift (can't recall). Felt as if it shifted and then instantly locked up the converter giving it a second shift feel. It no longer does that. Shifts good and smooth at all points now.

Last edited by CheapThrillB2; June 2nd, 2012 at 01:30 PM.
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