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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:20 PM   #1
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Default Welding 9" truss. *got it, now questions.....

I have a truss on order and I've been reading up on the proper way to weld it.

People are saying to use the STICH welding method. Do it for an inch or two, then let cool. Start from the middle and work your way outwards towards the end. They say it will take several hours.

Some say no matter how slow you go you will warp the ends and need to get it straightened.

Has anyone done this before? Why could I not just put it in a big tub of water and only expose the area I needed to weld??

Last edited by Plato2k5; March 24th, 2012 at 11:18 AM.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:35 PM   #2
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When I did mine, I welded probably 3 or 4 inch alternating beads from one side of one end to the other side of the other end. I didn't wait to let it cool off long enough and it ended up pulling both ends of the axle housing back towards the truss ever so slightly, I can't really offer a correct method thats tried and true but to say, don't do too much too fast. Have your truss's fit-up to the axle as close as you can make it because in my experience, the bigger the gap you are trying to fill the more the weld wants to pull the workpiece you are welding something too. If I were to do it all over again. I would probably do small sections (2 inches max maybe) with a better fit-up, and give them time to cool. Doing 1 to 2 inch sections isn't really stitch welding, stitch welding is a continuous line of tack welds made up to be a bead. Hope to prevent people from making my mistake although my housings slight bend shouldn't affect operation much if any. We will see! Hopefully somebody else will post up with a successful method.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:36 PM   #3
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My 2 cents:

1) Myself, I think that they will all warp to some degree, if you do nothing else otherwise to keep it straight. You are putting it on there straight, with superheated metal, its going to cool and shrink no matter what. If you went to a place like Currie, even with the giant jigs they have to weld them, they put them into a press and straighten them afterwards.

2) When I have done trusses, I use a beam, chains, and bottle jack to pre-flex it a little in the other direction, so it warps back towards straight. You can use the same method afterwards to straighten it.

3) Thousands have welded on trusses and never checked for straightness or did anything on many types of axles. Straightness is overrated, and many many many axles, trussed or not, are not straight anymore under our rigs.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:40 PM   #4
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The last time I welded new tubes into a steel center section, with a jig bar and alignment pucks, you could see the tube move with each weld. Once I have the tubes in place and tacked, I pull the end pucks, and let the bar float, as you weld, you try to keep it perfectly centered. Every weld, it'll move the whole tube. Crazy to see it happen.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:40 PM   #5
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I meant they stich weld 1 to 2 inches. I used it before for sheetmetal on the bod of the jeep and know it does not offer as great of penetration as a normal weld....

I will be sure that the gaps are very little to none.

I like the idea of bending it the other way.... I'm sure some bending of the axle is ok? Not like I DD this thing, I'm just wanting to ensure it does not bend with the added big tires. Its probably not even straight now.
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Old March 20th, 2012, 08:41 PM   #6
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I guess if all else fails I can just take it someplace and have them bend it back into place. I see Clydes in Pontiac does it
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Old March 24th, 2012, 11:11 AM   #7
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Got the truss yesterday. Not sure that I'm going to use it though. This one does not go end to end. It stops just before the U bolts on the leaf springs.

Not sure if its wide enough to really do anything? Id hate to go through the hassle to weld it up to find its not correct and have to do it again.

What are you'r guys thoughts? Is it better than nothing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...#ht_2724wt_905
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Old March 25th, 2012, 08:18 AM   #8
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no one?
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Old March 25th, 2012, 08:30 AM   #9
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a trusss that doesnt go end to end is useless in my mind, it creates a stress riser at the end of it.
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Old March 25th, 2012, 08:49 AM   #10
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yeah that is what I was thinking. I guess I'll just try and sell it on the drag forums.

Shoulda just went with the ruffstuff one lol
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Old March 25th, 2012, 05:28 PM   #11
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I'm just gonna run it. I plan to truss the top as well in the near future so I feel like I should be ok. I can always add to this one as well as i see fit.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 09:38 PM   #12
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i would just build one so i know its what i want, but thats just me
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Old May 1st, 2012, 05:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
Got the truss yesterday. Not sure that I'm going to use it though. This one does not go end to end. It stops just before the U bolts on the leaf springs.

Not sure if its wide enough to really do anything? Id hate to go through the hassle to weld it up to find its not correct and have to do it again.

What are you'r guys thoughts? Is it better than nothing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...#ht_2724wt_905
I just welded the same one on my 9", and never checked to see if its strait.(but I dont care) I dont DD it.
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Old May 1st, 2012, 10:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curbdog17 View Post
I just welded the same one on my 9", and never checked to see if its strait.(but I dont care) I dont DD it.
Strait? Like George?

The E-bay auction is at $39 w/ the "reserve not met" and the other listing has the buy it now of $44???

If you guys have pictures i would like to see how yours turned out.
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Old May 1st, 2012, 10:20 AM   #15
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i trussed my 10 bolt axle, non c-clip style, and it worked fine. the axles both installed easily, so any distortion was minimal.

and it looks super cool
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Old May 1st, 2012, 10:30 AM   #16
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I just did my truss on my Toyota, it didn't warp. I stitched it and scattered all over on the welds, started in the middle, went to the ends, then a 1/4 of te way in on the opp of the last weld, then 1/4 way up on the other end, and then jut back and forth on left/right/front/back...only thing I woulda done different was use anti spatter spray. Slag made my welds look like factory Toyota welds

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