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Old April 7th, 2012, 08:34 AM   #101
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Packaging the front end has been a major PITA, especially with limited time to work on it. Now to swap the pvc track bar out for a real one with a bend to clear the diff and some frame clearancing.

The track bar and drag link are 36.5" long and run up hill at 5* at full stuff. Ride height is 7" lower and the track bar runs down hill 6*. Steering box is from a Wagoneer, the pitman arm is from an astro van with the splines cut to allow us to index it for the Wag box.

I am hoping this is the biggest head ache of the build. Trying to package the steering box and the baggage it brings has been the biggest obstacle I've had in the last few builds.

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Old April 7th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #102
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Track bar is in. Cleaned up the rear housing, ready to start linking it.
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Old April 7th, 2012, 08:19 PM   #103
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Old April 7th, 2012, 08:32 PM   #104
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Your rear pinion angle looks a bit off
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Old April 8th, 2012, 07:12 AM   #105
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c'mon. it's a low pinion axle!
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Old April 9th, 2012, 10:11 PM   #106
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Here's some info from the 3 and 4-link calculators. The front numbers are as it's built. The rear is based on what I measured out tonight.

Next step is to get some more tabs cut by Motor City Machines. The axle lower tabs will be the same as the front axle. Uppers should be basic tabs that sit on a bridge that JeepM715 is bending up and bringing over.
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Old April 13th, 2012, 10:17 AM   #107
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Looks good! Keep up the progress!
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Old April 25th, 2012, 12:03 AM   #108
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This bitch has been fighting us.

When I cleaned up the rear housing, the spindle on the driver's side was all fubar'd. We went through a few ideas of how to fix, but ended up deciding to just swap axles. We found a 14-bolt in the for sale section that already had a Detroit, Ruff Stuff disc brake brackets, and calipers and rotors for less than what we could put it together short of if we ran a welded diff. So now we are running a 14-bolt plow out back!



JeepM715 bent up the bridge and weldered it on. It's just touching the top of the housing in front of the big lip. It's 1/2 plate, so hopefully it's going no where. We do plan to put on a pinion guard and tie it to the bridge. Kicking around the idea of trussing the whole thing for extra strength, too. Plan to trim the bottom lip. No crazy shave job.



Next up was boxing in the rusted out area where the stock rear uppers tied to the frame. I cut the plates out of 10ga while JeepM715 prepped the frame and then he weldered those on, too. It's plated on the bottom and both sides. Pass side just needs final prep, some rust cut out, and then the plates can be put on.

And then I can finally get started on frame side link mounts and get this part of the job done.



And a few weeks ago, the rear frame fell off. Damnedest thing. This happened to my last TJ frame, but this one didn't seem to lose as much.

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Old April 25th, 2012, 04:45 AM   #109
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Are you swapping the front over to 8-lug or the rear to 5-lug? Are you going to narrow the 14B?
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Old April 25th, 2012, 06:25 AM   #110
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Looks like this should be ready for the 2013 season.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 06:35 AM   #111
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we put a truss like that on rogers jeep and it twisted all up after a few rides defiantly not enough.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 11:16 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Bangler View Post
Are you swapping the front over to 8-lug or the rear to 5-lug? Are you going to narrow the 14B?
Moving everything to 8-lug. I traded my original axles to Mike Haines for a set of uncut axles. He wanted narrowed 5-lug axles and we wanted full-width so it made sense. The rear axle has been the kink in the plan, but it's going forward now.

Plan is for full width to get stability and room for packaging shocks. We will be running 17s, which seem to normally have more backspacing than 15" wheels to help narrow it some. Definitely not running full widths on 2" backspace wheels.

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Looks like this should be ready for the 2013 season.
Ouch. We need to have lunch again sometime because I've had your pliers in my truck since a day or two after we last met up.

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we put a truss like that on rogers jeep and it twisted all up after a few rides defiantly not enough.
Interesting. Was there a tie-in to the pinion guard? Just trying to scope the line between working and failing.

What's strange is that Jesse has this same basic setup on his buggy and it's been fine. We figured we might need a bit more since this will get driven harder than trail rig, but that it would be a good start.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 11:17 AM   #113
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I would also put a bet on that truss bending, needs some support mine bent first time I put the pedal to the floor.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 04:59 PM   #114
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Quote:
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Moving everything to 8-lug. I traded my original axles to Mike Haines for a set of uncut axles......Plan is for full width....?
Cool, sorry if that was mentioned earlier and I missed it.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 09:50 AM   #115
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I run the same truss and so far no problems. Buy my is tied into the diff cover and I added some 1 3/4" tubes out to the ends of the axle as it was simple and easy to do.

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Old April 26th, 2012, 10:07 AM   #116
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^ Looks BA.
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Old April 26th, 2012, 01:51 PM   #117
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I went the other way, to the pinion. Pick one, but it needs something.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:05 AM   #118
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Alright, definite plan to put on a pinion guard and tie it to the bridge then. The other night I was out and to the pass side boxed in. Next up is hanging link mounts. Axle brackets are done and just need to be welded on. Upper link mounts are marked for cutting.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 11:12 PM   #119
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Upper links mounted. Same as the front with a piece of 1.0x0.120 DOM frenched into the top of the frame.



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Old May 1st, 2012, 05:53 AM   #120
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You going to double shear it?
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