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Old April 14th, 2012, 08:57 PM   #1
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Unhappy 1993 ZJ..... F ME!! HELP! lol

OK... so she won't start. Lets do the run down and then the story of what has been done so far.
1993
Grand Cherokee Limited
4.0

So I left for vacation 2.5 weeks ago with a running ZJ, only issue was that the rear CA bracket on the axle was cracked. So I parked it, pulled the battery and let it sit for my awesome vaca to San Diego and Vegas! Got home and still had some vacation cash left so I picked up a used 120v welder. Cut up some steel, made some new brackets and got the rear end all fixed up. (battery was still out) Now I was ready to drive the old pig cause I missed her. Put the battery in and try to start her up. It just crank and wont fire...... turns over for hours on end and nothing.

Here is what I have found so far.
1. No fuel pressure unless I hot wire the pump then I have pressure.
2. No spark at the top of the dist. cap
3. All my gauges work and I have fuel

My first thought was the security. I have over and over reset it with the key in the ignition and the rear hatch, still nothing.nest is the crank position sensor, replaced it with a unit that has .005 ohm on the B & C terminals and still nothing. Ok, distribute, replaced the whole thing, still no spark still no fuel.... F*CK me... now I really started looking and found some weird stuff.

1. If I put a 12v jumper to the fuel pump I have pressure.\
2. If I put a 12v jumper to the ASD relay I get spark at the Dist. cap
-With both it still wont start cause the injectors wont fire
3. The ASD and fuel pump relay are going ape shit with the key in the on position.... chattering like crazy.
4. the security light stays on
5. the check engine light comes on for a second, then goes away, until the two relays go crazy. It then blinks in rhythm with them, and stays on for about 2-3 sec. after the key is pulled then goes off

So I kept thinking security. I then found a write up on disabling the security with a purple/yellow trace wire in the door or kick panel. Did that and still all the same..............

I am at a freaking loss and ready to blow her up............. I need the heep going and don't know where to go next, and sick of throwing $$ at it


any ideas???????

Oh, and I tried the key on, off, on, off, on thing and no codes......

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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:09 PM   #2
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Im no mechanic but the alarm thing makes sence to me, something needs reset poss dealer only scan tool????????????????
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:25 PM   #3
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Try to lock or unlock the doors or lift gate with the key then try to start it.
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:29 PM   #4
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Cut and ground the purple and pink wire on the passenger side door it will turn off the alarm
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:36 PM   #5
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You don't need to cut or jumper anything. If you had disconnected the battery, once reconnected the alarm module goes into power up alarm mode. It will flash the lights and keep the engine from starting.

Normally you can disable the alarm by passively unlocking either door or liftgate with the key or actively using the remote.

That's just my .02 though. What do I know though...I just like to fix things right and not "rig" them.
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Old April 14th, 2012, 11:42 PM   #6
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When i disconnect the battery and then reconnect the alarm is triggered. I stop it with the key in the tailgate. It still does the same crap.

I thought the alarm way purple and white????
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Old April 15th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #7
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Purple pink don't listen to guy i have had 3 grand cherokee thay done the same thing alarm will never shut off you can let it sit for as long as you want as soon as you hit the keys to reactivate it is an off road vehicle this is the only way to fix it without spent hours on end trying to get alarm out of the vehicle or spend 100 dollars to have a remote made up and have vehicle trailer to a shop to have it's set

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Old April 15th, 2012, 01:31 PM   #8
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so I have power to the coil and coming out, but when i connect my multimeter to the plug wire, no spark. I can pull the plug and ground it when it is cranking and still no spark... but the entire distributor is new. Could the Cam pos sensor in the distributor cause this?
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Old April 16th, 2012, 09:42 PM   #9
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sounds like an ECM/PCM problem.
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Old April 17th, 2012, 06:01 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_red_limited View Post
so I have power to the coil and coming out, but when i connect my multimeter to the plug wire, no spark. I can pull the plug and ground it when it is cranking and still no spark... but the entire distributor is new. Could the Cam pos sensor in the distributor cause this?
you connected a multimeter to the plug wire to check for spark????!!!!!
Thats a good way to toast your meter. Thats way more power than most meters can take.

check for 5v ref at the TPS, cam sensor and CPS if you can. If you have 5v there, check your asd relay.
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Old April 17th, 2012, 06:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
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check for 5v ref at the TPS, cam sensor and CPS if you can. If you have 5v there, check your asd relay.
only have 1v at the cam and CPS..............
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Old April 17th, 2012, 06:17 PM   #12
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and .5v at the TPS
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Old April 18th, 2012, 04:43 PM   #13
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So I replaced the computer, and the relays and still have no power to the sensors. Does anyone know what wires going to the pcm should have power? And the grounds? pulled the fuse block under the hood and there is zero corosion........ The check engine light is on when the key is in the on position but still no codes......... I'm lost.
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Old April 19th, 2012, 01:02 PM   #14
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Got another computer. This one strait from a running 93 4.0 GC. and put in a coil. Still the same crap!

Only have .5v at all my sensors, ground is good on the sensors.......

Ideas???? anything???
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Old April 19th, 2012, 01:09 PM   #15
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You only have .5 volts on the power wire to your sensors? You ALWAYS check all power and ground feeds to a computer before replacing it. See if you have a low voltage issue to your computer. Make sure you check it with the circuit loaded (computer connected and back probing the harnes with a pin at the connector). Put the negative meter lead directly to the battery ground when checking for power at the computer.
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Old April 19th, 2012, 01:16 PM   #16
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Ignition Switch?

Try hot wiring the Ignition wire at the key switch to the 12v while you try to start it. (Remember you'll have to disconnect it to kill the ignition!)

-Rob
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Old April 19th, 2012, 01:41 PM   #17
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Ok. have you checked the PCM fuse at the pass side kick panel ( i think thats where it is, i know 97 were driver side).

Look for a PCM or ECU fuse. You need to find why you are not getting 5v to your ref wires on all your sensors. I don't have my manual anymore but find a wiring manual and check all 12v pins to the PCM to see if its getting power when it needs. Should be one or 2 12v (one high amp and one low) and a 12v ignition wire.
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Old April 19th, 2012, 02:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Oh, and I tried the key on, off, on, off, on thing and no codes......
Did you try the acc, off, acc, off, acc thing?
That is the self test for the factory alarm system.

Note: I have heard that if you put a computer on a car with a factory alarm it initializes it so that it will not work on any other vehicle. Nice, huh?
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Old April 19th, 2012, 04:27 PM   #19
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I have not tried the ignition yet. It turns over fine though. Would the ignition switch still let it do this?

From what I can tell reading the diagrams I do have power going to the ecm, but the power from the ASD to the pcm is not there, and there is no power at the 5v or 8v supply to the PCM......
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Old April 19th, 2012, 04:32 PM   #20
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alarm is bypassed too. I grounded the drivers door switch and the alarm no longer activates. And yes, i have tried all these things with it activated, and without
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