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Old April 4th, 2012, 07:02 PM   #1
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Default Welding cast iron exhaust manifold

I have a mig and Arc welder. Can you heat it up to around 600*F and mig it with regular flux core, than throw it in the oven and slowly cool it?

or should I just use the arc welder? What rod ? I have very little experience with the arc welder... what settings?

I'd just rather use the mig unless it will not hold at all
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Old April 4th, 2012, 08:27 PM   #2
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Mig will not work at all, will most likely crack. No matter what method you use for welding the cast it will need to be both pre and post heated. Your gonna be best off with you stick welder and a high nickle content rod. Any welding supply shop should be able to point you in the right direction when it comes to a rod specifically for cast iron.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 06:48 AM   #3
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Do some research on aluminum bronze tig rid.

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Old April 6th, 2012, 06:53 AM   #4
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Certanium alloy sells a rod just for cast iron welding no pre or post heating needed.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 06:54 AM   #5
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Find a used one from the junk yard. It isn't worth the hassle for what you can buy one for. If you decide to repair make sure to drill the ends of the cracks or it will just continue to crack.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 01:39 PM   #6
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I have been reasearching it like crazy.... but its one of those things where some say , "i've been welding for 20 years and I have never had an issue with using regualr mig welding."

Some will say it just cannot be done with either, some say you have to use this or that rod, have to heat it to this temp and anything more or less it will not work.

Its for a 67 Olds so I can't just go to the junkyard, ebay they want $400. The ear is completely broke off to, its not just a simple crack.

I might just mig it, if that does not work i'll go out and spend money for rod. At least I can try what I have here.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 02:19 PM   #7
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I have a lot of experience with cast. You need nickel rod and arc for sure. V grove the crack/ joint with a grinder. Pre heat with a torch. Weld it. Nickel rod burns alot different than most arc rods. I would suggest you try a couple times on a scrap manifold to get the feel and heat right.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 06:32 PM   #8
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Listen to DIGnLIFE he knows what he is talking about. If you have access to a welding supplier see if you can get a TEMP STICK for cast iron. That way you can pre heat to the right temp before you start. If you don't have access to someones asbestos blanket to cover it up to slow down cooling process, you might try using a oven.
Otherwise you are wasting your time and will have junk when you are done.
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Old April 7th, 2012, 08:58 AM   #9
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you should find a donor head to bolt to also, hate to get it done and find that it wont fit
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Old April 8th, 2012, 11:03 PM   #10
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thanks for the tips guys. have not had a chance to get this done, soon though. I'll go talk to the welder stores in town here and see what they have. I've heard of that pen before.

For a donor head.... no dice. I will just make a template with flat steel and bolt it to that and hope it works. If it warps I can have my neighbor machine it flat.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 07:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGnLIFE View Post
I have a lot of experience with cast. You need nickel rod and arc for sure. V grove the crack/ joint with a grinder. Pre heat with a torch. Weld it. Nickel rod burns alot different than most arc rods. I would suggest you try a couple times on a scrap manifold to get the feel and heat right.
x2

Lots of preheat, and cool slow. I've put a welding blanket of cast after I've welded it to help keep it hot. And I've actually stuck some pieces in the rod oven to keep them hot and cool it slower.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 08:08 PM   #12
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Flux core
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Old April 9th, 2012, 08:23 PM   #13
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I'm amazed. all the know how on this site and nobody sees the tools they have around them?
ok you need to weld the manifold while hot. that helps deal out the prospects of cracking after the weld is laid. use a freaking Barbecue! put some foil down if you want but its a perfect annealing chamber. set up your work and then crank up the gas grill and bake to about 400*f. once hot open the lid weld the thing and then close to bake in the heat. let cool after you have finished both sides. piece of cake!
oh yeah doing like this you can get away with a mig welder flux core or not.
if you have a stick machine use the nickle drag rod. that works great.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 08:29 PM   #14
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That's ingenious!
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Old April 9th, 2012, 08:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
I have been reasearching it like crazy.... but its one of those things where some say , "i've been welding for 20 years and I have never had an issue with using regualr mig welding."

Some will say it just cannot be done with either, some say you have to use this or that rod, have to heat it to this temp and anything more or less it will not work.

Its for a 67 Olds so I can't just go to the junkyard, ebay they want $400. The ear is completely broke off to, its not just a simple crack.

I might just mig it, if that does not work i'll go out and spend money for rod. At least I can try what I have here.
for a 330? if so I might have one from a 64
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Old April 11th, 2012, 06:05 PM   #16
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yes sir. a 330 jetfire
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Old April 13th, 2012, 07:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
yes sir. a 330 jetfire
nevermind...my dad gave them away

Last edited by High Center Hancho; April 13th, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 08:24 AM   #18
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picked up some nickel rod the other day and welded it up. Looks good and seems strong. Installed the manifolds and its holding... time will tell I guess
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