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Old March 8th, 2012, 01:56 PM   #1
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Default dadsmudrun 2012 season dates

dates for dadsmudrun
june 16
july 21 points race
sept 15
classes and more info soon
also going to be some more improvements to pit and pit area
going to be a exciting season hope everyone is getting ready!!!!!
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Old March 8th, 2012, 05:56 PM   #2
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how are your classes set up?
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Old March 12th, 2012, 11:14 AM   #3
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just like the westmichiganmudruns pionts classes but we might have a street class and tractor tire class on top of are class 1 though 7 i will get them posted here soon thanks.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 11:16 AM   #4
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General Truck Rules



Solid tow out point (Each and every driver MUST pull a cable)

Helmets and seat belts required by all vehicle occupants

Fire Extinguisher on board

GOOD SPORTSMANSHIP is required or you will be asked to leave!

$20 one time entry fee per driver, per truck, per class





Classes and Rules





Class 1 36.5" DOT (non cut) tires and under

4x4 vehicles only-production type frames and suspension

Any motor drive train combination

Front of motor can not be behind center line of front axle

Body swaps allowed with motor in stock location of frame, axles within 6" of center of wheel well

Flat beds and gutting allowed, must maintain stock appearing bodies (not homemade)

Must have doors, hood, and firewall. Replacement fiberglass body or parts ok

Single carb, gasoline only, no nitrous

No aluminum heads or aluminum blocks permitted

Vehicles with factory support of cab cut, or glass removed, open or soft tops MUST have roll bar to the frame

Passengers allowed at the discretion of the track owner

Maximum engine size 514 cubic inches



Class 2 44" DOT (non cut) tires and under

Same rules as class 1



CLASSES 1 AND 2 ARE MEANT FOR LOWER BUDGET BEGINNERS, IF YOU SHOW UP WITH HIGH DOLLAR MOTOR TO RUN THOSE CLASSES, YOU WILL BE BUMPED UP TO CLASS 3 AND 4



Class 3 36.5" DOT (non cut) tires and under

​4x4 vehicles only-production type frames and suspension

Any motor and drive train combination

Body swaps allowed

Flat beds and gutting allowed, must maintain stock appearing bodies (not homemade)

Must have doors, hood, and firewall. Replacement fiberglass body or parts ok

Single carb, gasoline only, no nitrous

No aluminum blocks permitted

Vehicles with factory support of cab cut, or glass removed, open or soft tops MUST have roll bar to the frame

Aluminum heads allowed- conventional type only

Engine set back should be no more than 12" from centerline of axle to #1 spark plug

No aluminum hubs

No nitrogen shocks

No fiberglass or carbon fiber springs allowed

Passengers allowed at the discretion of the track owner

Wide five wheels are ok if they are used with an adapter, no wide five hubs



Class 4 44" DOT (non cut) tires and under

Same rules as class 3



Class 5​ 39.5" DOT tires and under

Cut DOT tires allowed

2"x3" square tube frames ok

4 link and other adjustable suspensions allowed

Engine must be in front of driver

Fiberglass bodies ok, no full fiberglass racing bodies

Max deck height Ford-10.320 GM-10.200 Chrysler-10.72

Alcohol through carb, no injection

Any enclosed transfer cases

Gutting allowed

Must be naturally aspirated

​Small blocks can run a 300 shot of nitrous, iron headed big blocks can run a 250 shot of nitrous

​FIRE SUITS REQUIRED!!!

Minimum four point harness

Roll cage requirements: 6 point minimum, with 4 points to the frame. .090 min thickness 1 5/8 min. on main support

Master kill switch within driver's reach with an exterior kill switch on right rear of vehicle

Maximum wheel base of 150"

Wide five wheels ok

NO PASSENGERS!!!



Class 6 54" DOT tires and under

Same rules as class 5



Class 7

ANYTHING GOES!!

Paddles and tractor tires ok

FIRE SUIT REQUIRED

NO PASSENGERS

Minimum 4 point harness

Roll cage requirements: 6 point minimum, with 4 points to the frame. .090 min thickness 1 5/8 min. on main support​

Master kill switch within driver's reach with an exterior kill switch on right rear of vehicle
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Old March 12th, 2012, 11:21 AM   #5
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there may be a street class and a tractor tire class at are place also if we do a tractor tire class, four tractor tires are needed to run class. this class may end up as a heavy hitters class for the bigger heavier trucks or just a tractor tire class i will let you no when it gets closer and i get more feedback . also we will try doing a street class before class 1 but it may be alliminated depending on truck intries.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 11:27 PM   #6
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This intrigues me?
Maximum engine size 514 cubic inches

CLASSES 1 AND 2 ARE MEANT FOR LOWER BUDGET BEGINNERS, IF YOU SHOW UP WITH HIGH DOLLAR MOTOR TO RUN THOSE CLASSES, YOU WILL BE BUMPED UP TO CLASS 3 AND 4
Don't they kind of contradict each other. How much does it cost to get 514 CI?
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Old March 13th, 2012, 07:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmcjeep View Post
This intrigues me?
Maximum engine size 514 cubic inches

CLASSES 1 AND 2 ARE MEANT FOR LOWER BUDGET BEGINNERS, IF YOU SHOW UP WITH HIGH DOLLAR MOTOR TO RUN THOSE CLASSES, YOU WILL BE BUMPED UP TO CLASS 3 AND 4
Don't they kind of contradict each other. How much does it cost to get 514 CI?
About $2000 for a drop in kit.

New 4340 forged steel 4340 crankshaft, Standard weight, 2pc rear main seal
New 4340 forged steel H beam connecting rods with ARP 8740 7/16 rod bolts
New JE 2618 forged pistons, with wrist pins and spirol locks
New Performance Ductile Iron Plasma-moly piston ring set
New Clevite 77 / ACL rod and main bearing set.

little cheaper if you go with an offset ground factory cast crank and source rods, pistons from various builders. Not much of a price difference from a standard rebuilder kit to a stroker kit.

A 514" is an economical stroker build with tons of torque. Re-use your stock crank and have it offset ground, add a set of off the shelf pistons and rods, a 514" is born. For close to the same price a guy could cheat and drop in a 557" kit, no machining required other than cylinder boring.

Last edited by IDIeselman; March 13th, 2012 at 07:59 AM.
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Old March 13th, 2012, 10:53 AM   #8
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From what i heard, if you run good or win in class 1 and 2, you will be bumped into class 3 and 4 next race. Its for stock and first time racers.
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Old March 13th, 2012, 11:05 AM   #9
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What if i am a first time racer, but have a 514? lol jk, i aint got the money for that. But this sure sounds like a lot of fun. Might have to stop out.
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Old March 13th, 2012, 11:09 AM   #10
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the goal this season is to keep the classes as fair and competitive as we can if you can't find a class that fits your rig this season at any of the west michigan races and or crc then maybe comp running isn't for you we will have techs at every race points and non points to try and keep thre rigs running in the right classes looking forward to a get season of racing and i hope these classes will bring back all the rigs in are area and new guys to race!!! always incourage new faces and places!!!
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Old March 13th, 2012, 02:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDIeselman View Post
About $2000 for a drop in kit.

New 4340 forged steel 4340 crankshaft, Standard weight, 2pc rear main seal
New 4340 forged steel H beam connecting rods with ARP 8740 7/16 rod bolts
New JE 2618 forged pistons, with wrist pins and spirol locks
New Performance Ductile Iron Plasma-moly piston ring set
New Clevite 77 / ACL rod and main bearing set.

little cheaper if you go with an offset ground factory cast crank and source rods, pistons from various builders. Not much of a price difference from a standard rebuilder kit to a stroker kit.

A 514" is an economical stroker build with tons of torque. Re-use your stock crank and have it offset ground, add a set of off the shelf pistons and rods, a 514" is born. For close to the same price a guy could cheat and drop in a 557" kit, no machining required other than cylinder boring.
I assume this is if you start with a 454?
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Old March 13th, 2012, 03:21 PM   #12
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he's talking bbf power denny!!!
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Old March 19th, 2012, 10:44 AM   #13
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we were out back sunday doing some more clearing making somemore parking had a couple rigs out testing and tuning love the smell of racing fuel in the air getting excited again!! we are moving mud pit back 20ft or so to make more shut down area and improve spectator veiwing this will also give us more room for pitside parking by moving the fence line further out tords staging area witch everyone noise we need!!
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Old May 11th, 2012, 02:29 PM   #14
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we will be out back this weekend putting up some more gaurd railing june 16 will be here before we no it.
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Old June 4th, 2012, 01:10 PM   #15
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everything is looking great out back almost ready for first race we will have some new concessions out there june 16 anything from chicken, corn dogs, hotdogs, sloppy joes, elephant ears and more two kids foot races raffles and plenty of mud for everyone.
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Old June 4th, 2012, 01:16 PM   #16
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class for are june will be
street class 35 down must be streetable rig with exhuast mild motor up grades factory suspension lift kits ok.
class1though 7 are same as westmichigan point classes
and class 8 will be a heavy hitter class 2.5 ton and bigger axles any size tire .
if i don't get enough big rigs out for this run this class will change into some type of a tractor tire class.
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Old June 10th, 2012, 09:13 AM   #17
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Come on out for a fun filled day for the entire family. Always a fun time at Dad's Mud Run.

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Old June 11th, 2012, 11:03 AM   #18
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ok guys and gals we are trying something new for entry to the back there will be two entrance points off road one for spactators is the original drivway going back and mud trucks and trailer will be useing main driveway and useing the exit drive to the pit area as there drive back to pits. any questions let me no thanks.
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Old June 14th, 2012, 09:09 AM   #19
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ok change of plans we will be useing the normal drive for everyone to enter out back and keeping the pit exit drive just that for now. hoping for july to have it changed around but just not enough help to make it work this run
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Old June 17th, 2012, 01:51 PM   #20
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Thank you to everyone that came out . It was a great day
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