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Old January 2nd, 2012, 10:39 AM   #81
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 10:43 AM   #82
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soooo sad....I would have allowed you to park the roller fat pig in my field of broken Jeeps to live out the rest of it's days....
Yeah, but it was awesome watching the claw throw it across the yard. Very therapeutic.

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Weiner brackets work?
I had them in place briefly and it should all work. Spent the time on parting the Wag instead.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 08:24 PM   #83
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I watched a video last night of JohnnyJ do a 5 minute burnout on 35's with a D30 down in Tellico. I hope this rig is as awesome as that burnout!
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Old February 13th, 2012, 10:54 PM   #84
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KOH is done, now get back to work
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every circle needs a pivot man
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Old March 1st, 2012, 02:25 PM   #85
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I watched a video last night of JohnnyJ do a 5 minute burnout on 35's with a D30 down in Tellico. I hope this rig is as awesome as that burnout!
I hope I can regain that level of badass.

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KOH is done, now get back to work
Last night was the first time since Christmas I went out to the garage for more than feeding the dog. It was strange being out there, but I think we've got the plan for the front end. Hopefully some progress pics soon.

I don't think we will be racing in the 1st TREC race.
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Old March 1st, 2012, 02:35 PM   #86
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hope to see you there anyway
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Old March 4th, 2012, 02:59 PM   #87
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I got some time out there this weekend and worked on the link suspension. I've stepped up my links. I think these will hold. Now to work on the frame side brackets and panhard.



I think my camera phone takes better pics than my "real" camera. Ugh.
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Old March 8th, 2012, 12:36 AM   #88
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We started off the night with the thought of starting on the exhaust, and ended up doing some link work and steering instead.

We pulled the tub off again, and made a small adjustment to where the upper link would mount. We sank a sleeve for the upper mount in the frame and pushed the joint closer to the frame, and moved the link mount about 3/4" closer to the center of the axle. This gave a bit more clearance to the header flange while centering up the link under the engine mount arch.

We were moving exhaust tube around trying to figure out how we will fit the 2.5" off the manifolds into a 3" Y-pipe and snake it by the starter and link. We we also trying to make sure we cleared the driveshaft on the other side, so we chopped down my old driveshaft to fit.



Around this time AlumCJ and Hosejockey stopped by and brought us our power steering brackets. We ended up changing focus and got the steering box mounted. With this setup we have stretched the front forward about 4-4.5". We had to notch the front bumper to slip the steering box forward to make room for the steering linkage.



Next up is mocking up the drag link and building the panhard.
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Old March 8th, 2012, 05:02 AM   #89
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John, I need to burn you a chip of the pics of the blue racer we saw out west.
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Old March 8th, 2012, 07:35 AM   #90
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That would be great Jim.
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Old March 8th, 2012, 07:38 AM   #91
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No pics of the sweet race tires? Lol
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tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old March 8th, 2012, 09:46 AM   #92
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I pulled the part number of the trans last night and looked it up today. Looks to be a 4L65E out of a 2003 4wd 1500 pick-up or similar (4.8/5.3). So at least this thing isn't ancient. We still plan to put the TransGo 4L60E-3 shift kit in it to give us full manual control over shifting.

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No pics of the sweet race tires? Lol
No pics, but they were fondled.
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Old March 10th, 2012, 11:55 AM   #93
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I am thinking about doing this as well. But have a few questions. How does it affect mounting the grill and good? How much does it raise it all if any?
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Old March 11th, 2012, 11:08 PM   #94
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Pass side front frame link mounts are in.





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I am thinking about doing this as well. But have a few questions. How does it affect mounting the grill and good? How much does it raise it all if any?
The top of the frame rail is about 1.5 to 1.75 above the stock frame rail, with the 2x3 it gives an extra inch below the frame for clearance. I did a similar setup on the last frame I modified, and by going with a 3/8" poly space in place of the grille snubbers, it sat in about the same place.

Ok, here's my question for the night. Do you think this steering setup with the drag link to a high steer arm on the pass Ford knuckle would break the knuckle, or would it be ok? On my trail rig, we had the hydro ram hooked up kind of like this with the ram going to high steer and a tie rod, and after a year or two I cracked the knuckle.

On this rig there's no plan for hydro assist, and if we add it, it would be tied to the tie rod like in the photo. Is this certain doom for the knuckle?

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Old March 12th, 2012, 06:08 AM   #95
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John,
Mine goes to my hi steer arm. Actually, to the stock Chevy 3/4 ton TRE that attaches to the arm. So far I haven't broken it but I'm not blasting it at high speeds like you will be in a race. Plus, I have hydro assist which obviously helps a bunch. Best pics I can find at the moment are on page 4 of my build.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthr...t=86807&page=4
On closer look, the example jeep you show is pushing all forces through the knuckle down to the stock steering arms. Since I am pushing to the tie rod itself and doing all steering on the hi steer arms, the forces into the knuckle are totally different. I don't like it.

The other advantage to me not breaking it is that I wheel like a sissy.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 06:25 AM   #96
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I see no reason to run a high steer arm on a Ford knuckle. The factory arm is higher than axle centerline and way stronger than if you put all the input thru a HS arm and "twist" the knuckle. I broke one on my BDMT that way, and haven't used High Steer arms since. They just limit uptravel in my opinion.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 06:59 AM   #97
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If you are running rocks, I disagree. Even with hi steer I have hit and bent my tie rod more than once. I can't imagine how much damage I would have done if it were 4-5" lower. For racing, I would agree but I think John is trying to get a flatter drag link angle when drooped out.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 08:03 AM   #98
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For racing, I would agree but I think John is trying to get a flatter drag link angle when drooped out.
Yep, exactly what we are after. With what I'm thinking right now, there would be 2" of side to side swing through 14" of travel. If I were to take the easiest route, the drag link would be flat at full stuff, and swing would be 3".

I didn't measure what it would be with high steer to see how much it would improve since I found this pic in a folder of saved pics when I was pulling pics off my camera.
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Old March 12th, 2012, 10:50 PM   #99
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Looking at it tonight, I don't think I could make a high steer arm work.

I tacked the driver's lower bracket into place. I'll double check my measurements again tomorrow before going any further. I also cut the material for lower links. My little band saw only took 30 minutes per cut on 2"x0.25" DOM.

I also double checked link separation and angles. We ended up with 7" of separation on the frame side and a little over 8" on the axle. At full bump the lowers are angled up 7* and the upper is 9*. All links are 36". Right now the drag link and track bar are mocked up to be 33" long, and both will be angled up about 7* as well.
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Old March 14th, 2012, 11:32 PM   #100
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Ok, it was jeep night, and somehow we are further behind; but hopefully it will all be worth it. We are trading a friend my narrowed 60s for full-width 60s and moving from 4.88 to 5.13 gears. This should give more room for packaging shocks and moves us from 5x5.5 to 8x6.5.
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