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Old January 29th, 2012, 10:55 AM   #21
stuckinthemud
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depending how many miles factory specs for timing might not be what it needs i have one when set to factory spec it diesels but when i set it just by ear without a light runs like a champ mileage is alot to do with the older motors but 220,000 an still goin strong they are a great motor get tons of miles outta them
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Old January 30th, 2012, 05:54 PM   #22
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I can't answer that for you. I haven't fucked with one of those peices of shit in 8 years.

If you have a haynes manual it should outline how to trouble shoot it, I will look to see if I still have mine, but its much more likely that I don't/
in the haynes manual it jest sez if evenything elce checks out then replace the ignition mod but there like 254$$$
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Old January 30th, 2012, 11:20 PM   #23
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100$ at www.rockauto.com
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Old January 30th, 2012, 11:30 PM   #24
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im sure somebody has a used one layin around with how many of these motors there is around. is that actually in the distributer?
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Old January 31st, 2012, 08:43 AM   #25
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in the haynes manual it jest sez if evenything elce checks out then replace the ignition mod but there like 254$$$
I'm well aware of their outrageous cost.
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Old January 31st, 2012, 11:16 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=kickstand;2939044]I can't answer that for you. I haven't fucked with one of those peices of shit in 8 years.

I haven't messed with mine in the 8 years I have been driving it.
You sound like a detroit politician, keep repeating a lie untill enough dumb asses believe it.
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Old January 31st, 2012, 12:07 PM   #27
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[You sound like a detroit politician, keep repeating a lie untill enough dumb asses believe it.
Yeah, everything I experience with the 22re is a figment of my imagination and I made it all up.

My truck ran like a total peice of shit, I know numerous other people who have had the same experience with the peice of shit 22 r series of motors.

But, since you said so, I am a liar.

Last edited by kickstand; January 31st, 2012 at 01:00 PM.
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Old January 31st, 2012, 12:53 PM   #28
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When you replaced the TPS, did you readjust the new one to specs?

MIght want to read through all of this:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#MoreInfo

Likewise, when you set the timing, you need to jump the one connector before setting timing. Connector locations here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

You might try jumping the diag connector, sometimes there are codes there even without a constant check engine light.


Also, is your air flow meter in good shape, and no leaks in the intake tube between the AFM and the throttle body?

Definately go through and make sure all of the grounds are good. There should be a couple on the engine, and to the body. Make sure the ECU looks good, that its well grounded to the body.

Sometimes on those, due to the age of them, you get bad wiring connections that just go intermittant. The heat of the engine dries and cracks them a bit, especially where the hrness goes through the intake manifold under the plenum.


Myself, my 22RE was always fine. The only issues I had was poor running/stumbling/sputtering, due to ECU under water, and poor running due to water in fuel.

Here's a post similar, but never really resolves it:

What would cause a newly rebuilt 22RE to run rough between 3000 to 4000 RPM? - Pirate4x4.Com
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Old January 31st, 2012, 01:19 PM   #29
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I have seen several threads now on bad EGR system causing stumbing/misses in the 2500-3000 rpm range.

http://www.yotatech.com/f115/22re-high-rpm-miss-207402/

THis has lot of good info:

http://www.yotatech.com/f116/22re-mi...advice-213660/

If nothing else, reading those types of threads will give you ideas to check.

I'd try blocking off the EGR with a small plate, to see if that helps. I have no idea what emissions laws are in AK. (I would guess not very strict)

Last edited by Haggar; January 31st, 2012 at 01:29 PM.
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Old February 1st, 2012, 11:22 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Yeah, everything I experience with the 22re is a figment of my imagination and I made it all up.

My truck ran like a total peice of shit, I know numerous other people who have had the same experience with the peice of shit 22 r series of motors.

But, since you said so, I am a liar.
I didn't say you made it up but you keep claiming all 22re's are crap. I have had 3 with no issues other than drowning one. When it thawed/dried out it was fine. The current one has 175k of which I put the last 90k on. Including 5 years off DD duty. Others were winter beaters that i kept for 30-40k with no issues.
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Old February 12th, 2013, 08:56 AM   #31
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Cool 22REs don't have head gasket problems... it's

The cylinder heads on 22REs go bad, NOT the head gasket as with junk Toyota V-6. This is due two issues in my opinion:
1) Coolant passages are located too close to cylinder chambers.
2) Toyota Aluminum casting is inferior due to visual porosity and foreign material introduced in the sand casting process. Possible inferior aluminum alloy is used by Toyota to cut costs as well as they don't or didn't know what the f they were doing pouring cast aluminum.

The only solution is to remove the cylinder head and weld repair and re-surface the cylinder head. Detection of the bad area is difficult and best left to a cylinder head professional. On my personal junk 22RE that's been weld repaired twice since new (now has about 180K miles since brand new, 1988) my cylinder head guy and I decided to weld up two or three (maybe 4) "blind" passages in the head that are also close to cylinder chambers. I think they are there to aid in cleaning and drainage when the garbage head is off, and not all that necessary as the gasket blocks them off anyway. This last repair has held for about 25K miles now, but the truck and engine lower end have fallen apart (burning lots of oil although I put a front main seal repair kit in) and are no longer road worthy. I use it for hauling rocks and wood on my property. It's a cheap "John Deer Gator" now and works okay for this.

On a side note, I have easily spent way more of my time working on my junk Toyota SR5 extended cab 4x4 than any other vehicle I've ever owed. Not only is it the worst quality vehicle with the fewest recalls of things that should have been recalled of anything I've ever owned, It is NOT an "off road" vehicle, no matter what others think. The weakest link is the bogus clutch that Toyota put in. It will burn out on any steep hill in 4x4 low range with your foot completely off the clutch.

Any inline 6 (except Toyota) is the best for off road so why bother with anything else. Get a Jeep or Chevy.... seriously.
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 07:26 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by the22REisjunk View Post
The cylinder heads on 22REs go bad, NOT the head gasket as with junk Toyota V-6. This is due two issues in my opinion:
1) Coolant passages are located too close to cylinder chambers.
2) Toyota Aluminum casting is inferior due to visual porosity and foreign material introduced in the sand casting process. Possible inferior aluminum alloy is used by Toyota to cut costs as well as they don't or didn't know what the f they were doing pouring cast aluminum.

The only solution is to remove the cylinder head and weld repair and re-surface the cylinder head. Detection of the bad area is difficult and best left to a cylinder head professional. On my personal junk 22RE that's been weld repaired twice since new (now has about 180K miles since brand new, 1988) my cylinder head guy and I decided to weld up two or three (maybe 4) "blind" passages in the head that are also close to cylinder chambers. I think they are there to aid in cleaning and drainage when the garbage head is off, and not all that necessary as the gasket blocks them off anyway. This last repair has held for about 25K miles now, but the truck and engine lower end have fallen apart (burning lots of oil although I put a front main seal repair kit in) and are no longer road worthy. I use it for hauling rocks and wood on my property. It's a cheap "John Deer Gator" now and works okay for this.

On a side note, I have easily spent way more of my time working on my junk Toyota SR5 extended cab 4x4 than any other vehicle I've ever owed. Not only is it the worst quality vehicle with the fewest recalls of things that should have been recalled of anything I've ever owned, It is NOT an "off road" vehicle, no matter what others think. The weakest link is the bogus clutch that Toyota put in. It will burn out on any steep hill in 4x4 low range with your foot completely off the clutch.

Any inline 6 (except Toyota) is the best for off road so why bother with anything else. Get a Jeep or Chevy.... seriously.
wow you really are retarded. were all entitled to our own opinion so why don't you keep yours to your self.

you stupid first posting trash talking nebraskan pig
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 07:31 PM   #33
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i love these old trucks and would rather own one than any thing built on this piece of crappy soil

go to your gm dealer and ask the service man how much if the parts that are used in new motors says made in usa on it. all made in mexico, keep supporting out sourcing you asshole
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 08:48 PM   #34
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Has anyone seen my blue socks? I seem to have left them somewhere.
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 09:53 PM   #35
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i love these old trucks and would rather own one than any thing built on this piece of crappy soil

go to your gm dealer and ask the service man how much if the parts that are used in new motors says made in usa on it. all made in mexico, keep supporting out sourcing you asshole
Wait, did you just call the us crappy soil?
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 09:55 PM   #36
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Wait, did you just call the us crappy soil?
That's certainly how I read it. Hopefully I read incorrectly....
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Old March 3rd, 2013, 08:09 AM   #37
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this soils tainted, so bad you think its "good"
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Old March 3rd, 2013, 10:56 AM   #38
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when did farmboy move to alaska?
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Old March 5th, 2013, 11:23 AM   #39
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Any inline 6 (except Toyota) is the best for off road so why bother with anything else. Get a Jeep or Chevy.... seriously.[/QUOTE]

Weren't Toyota inline 6's pretty much a copy of the old chevy I6's?

Go look at the rest of the 3rd world outside of detroit and see what people who depend on 4wd are using.
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Old March 5th, 2013, 12:30 PM   #40
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The 1JZ-GTE was a somewhat copy of the Chevy inline 6. A very good and strong copy. The stock bottom end in those turbo Supras are quite capable of handling 1000 hp without being touched.

Yea, they are junk just like the 22RE. Those horrible 22REs I have seen (the same engine) suck water in it 3 different times, get drained, fire up and keep going. One of mine had 146k with the wrist pin rattle but still ran strong. The other had 246k on it when I sold it. It woud probably still be running today if the new owner hadn't of rolled it. Junk I tell you. Junk . . . .

Last edited by Rattler; March 5th, 2013 at 12:34 PM.
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