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Old January 23rd, 2012, 07:54 AM   #1
Coyote Red
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Default Pushing the Dana 44 TTB

Well there is no ice to fish on, and few rabbits to hunt. So it is fabrication time for the '91. How far can you push the Dana 44 TTB before custom length axles are needed, how much wheel travel have you achieved, have you tried heim joints for the beam pivots, and how far should I extend the radius arms?

The plan for now is to machine out the beam pivots and install weld in heim joints, build 4" drop brackets around the joints, build extended radius arms with heim joints, re-engineer the steering links to follow the beams full range of motion, and with any luck pull about 12" of wheel travel. Is there anything that I need to be aware of as I start designing and fabricating the parts?

I want to find the limits of this set up before I go through the SAS route.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 08:41 AM   #2
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Click on faq's at the top of this forum. There is an article about all ttb front axles that I think may be of some help to. You in your endeavors.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 08:49 AM   #3
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Actual numbers for the full size ttb were almost impossible for me to find a couple years ago, there are more available for the ttb out of the rangers.

I have been working on a set up for a couple years,......thought I had it right, but under load the pivot point moved more then I expected. (I'm not ready to post any numbers until I get it right) I think a heim may work to replace this but I have not personally tested it yet.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 09:26 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by eagle-eye View Post
Click on faq's at the top of this forum. There is an article about all ttb front axles that I think may be of some help to. You in your endeavors.
Thanks, I have read through the FAQs numerous times and have not quite found what I am looking for. It is a fantastic write up about the ranger/bronco II ttb and I am sure I will be applying some of the concepts to my full size build.

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Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE View Post
Actual numbers for the full size ttb were almost impossible for me to find a couple years ago, there are more available for the ttb out of the rangers.

I have been working on a set up for a couple years,......thought I had it right, but under load the pivot point moved more then I expected. (I'm not ready to post any numbers until I get it right) I think a heim may work to replace this but I have not personally tested it yet.
The numbers are very hard to find indeed, I have been searching for about two months. In that time I have found some good reads but nothing to the extent I was looking for. If you don't mind me asking what is your set up like? What have you tried and found works and doesn't work? Now, when you said that you found a pivot point to be moving under load what point were you talking about?

Last edited by Coyote Red; January 23rd, 2012 at 10:59 AM. Reason: Spelling Mistake
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 09:49 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Coyote Red View Post
Thanks, I have read through the FAQs numerous times and have not quite found what I am looking for. It is a fantastic write up about the ranger/bronco II ttb and I am sure I will be applying some of the concepts to my full size build.



The numbers are very hard to find indeed, I have been searching for about two months. In that time I have found some good reads but nothing to the extent I was looking for. If you don't mind me asking what is your set up like? What have you tried and found works and doesn't work? Now, when you said that you found a pivot point to be moving under load what paint were you talking about?
Under load the factory bushing was compressing too much and was creating havoc with the long side axle.........I had the distance from pivot to hub, just a little farther then the stock axle could safely move. I too, am trying to use stock axles.


When I was researching, everybody kept telling me to do a "cut and turn", but "Nobody" had any numbers other then one person from my club who had found some information for his ranger.

I ended up cutting the front end of a donor truck off and mounting the front sub to my barn wall so I could cycle the Twin Tortion beams through full movement. I've gone through 4 sets of beams now. I'm not quite ready to release travel numbers yet, like I said earlier, I don't want to give the information out until I get it right.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:09 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE View Post
Under load the factory bushing was compressing too much and was creating havoc with the long side axle.........I had the distance from pivot to hub, just a little farther then the stock axle could safely move. I too, am trying to use stock axles.


When I was researching, everybody kept telling me to do a "cut and turn", but "Nobody" had any numbers other then one person from my club who had found some information for his ranger.

I ended up cutting the front end of a donor truck off and mounting the front sub to my barn wall so I could cycle the Twin Tortion beams through full movement. I've gone through 4 sets of beams now. I'm not quite ready to release travel numbers yet, like I said earlier, I don't want to give the information out until I get it right.
I keep reading about the "cut and turn" as well but like wise no numbers to go with. I am comfortable doing something like that but have not found anything to go from so I am not looking to take a total shot in the dark. I do like the idea of using a sub frame mounted to a wall. I have a parts truck out back that needs to meet the torch and welder to get some bugs worked out of my design.

Did you make the brackets your self or did you start with a kit or are you not even using brackets any more? How much of a lift are you trying to run? I understand not letting out too many number when things are unknown. I have seen beams that are cut and turned offered by Camburg but for $550 with cores required I can cut them myself if I decide on this route.

So far you have been helpful in giving me one thing to be very mindful in my project.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:13 AM   #7
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I keep reading about the "cut and turn" as well but like wise no numbers to go with. I am comfortable doing something like that but have not found anything to go from so I am not looking to take a total shot in the dark. I do like the idea of using a sub frame mounted to a wall. I have a parts truck out back that needs to meet the torch and welder to get some bugs worked out of my design.

Did you make the brackets your self or did you start with a kit or are you not even using brackets any more? How much of a lift are you trying to run? I understand not letting out too many number when things are unknown. I have seen beams that are cut and turned offered by Camburg but for $550 with cores required I can cut them myself if I decide on this route.

So far you have been helpful in giving me one thing to be very mindful in my project.

No Brackets, they are just something else to loosen up and go wrong. My idea is to add more Up travel, not as much of the lift aspect. (Think extended shock hoops)
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 10:31 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE View Post
No Brackets, they are just something else to loosen up and go wrong. My idea is to add more Up travel, not as much of the lift aspect. (Think extended shock hoops)
I see, I too am looking at more travel. I was thinking that the only way to gain this would be to move the beams farther down from the frame to allow more travel upwards. What was your target number for travel? Also did you do a build tread for the project that you are referring to or not yet?

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Old January 23rd, 2012, 11:55 AM   #9
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I see, I too am looking at more travel. I was thinking that the only way to gain this would be to move the beams farther down from the frame to allow more travel upwards. What was your target number for travel? Also did you do a build tread for the project that you are referring to or not yet?

What I wanted and what is available were two different things, but again, not information that I want to give yet.

Here's the build but, the front end stuff is not on it:

Flareside Gets an Upgrade - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 12:08 PM   #10
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What I wanted and what is available were two different things, but again, not information that I want to give yet.

Here's the build but, the front end stuff is not on it:

Flareside Gets an Upgrade - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
Understandable. I will see if any others post for now, otherwise, in a few weeks I will take my shot at this idea.
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 01:27 PM   #11
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I have a set of boxed arms. I also had trouble with the brackets or arms bending.
I solved the arm problem by boxing them. As far as the bushing is concerned, you could use a press in ballistic joint and make a stronger custom bracket that is wider for more flex.

Anyway, no reason for that much round here so I just pulled mine out and am waiting for the weather to clear so I can put my staright axle under it!

If you are interested in the arms I pulled off, let me know!
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Old January 23rd, 2012, 01:48 PM   #12
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I have a set of boxed arms. I also had trouble with the brackets or arms bending.
I solved the arm problem by boxing them. As far as the bushing is concerned, you could use a press in ballistic joint and make a stronger custom bracket that is wider for more flex.

Anyway, no reason for that much round here so I just pulled mine out and am waiting for the weather to clear so I can put my staright axle under it!

If you are interested in the arms I pulled off, let me know!
I should have mentioned that I also planned to box/truss the beams and reinforce the hell out of any bracket/mounting points. 12" of travel is a lot for Michigan but I plan to keep and wheel this thing everywhere I go. So it will be nice for some places and overkill for others. I for some reason am interested in how far can this style of suspension be pushed before everything become a custom set up. Also PM sent.
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Old January 27th, 2012, 09:53 PM   #13
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You can pull 16 inches of travel on a TTB. It will need long radius arms. The cut and turn is moving the lower balljoint out typically or pie cutting the beam. How much you move the balljoint out is determined by the height you are going to run. Most run 5.5 Deaver coils (JBG has them), but you can run any 4 to 6 inch coil. To get 16 you will have to clearance the center joint. Plenty of folks run 35s with a TTB, but it will crush a stock heater box on full stuff. You can go to Autofab's website and see his 16 inch setup. The TTB will give you a very fast front end, superb for desert racing or the dunes. Camburg and Spirit make beams and there are plenty of small fabricators around. Beams usually start at around $300 and go up. The TTB is a very very good front axle.

This is my first post btw, hello all.
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Old January 29th, 2012, 10:08 PM   #14
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You can pull 16 inches of travel on a TTB. It will need long radius arms. The cut and turn is moving the lower balljoint out typically or pie cutting the beam. How much you move the balljoint out is determined by the height you are going to run. Most run 5.5 Deaver coils (JBG has them), but you can run any 4 to 6 inch coil. To get 16 you will have to clearance the center joint. Plenty of folks run 35s with a TTB, but it will crush a stock heater box on full stuff. You can go to Autofab's website and see his 16 inch setup. The TTB will give you a very fast front end, superb for desert racing or the dunes. Camburg and Spirit make beams and there are plenty of small fabricators around. Beams usually start at around $300 and go up. The TTB is a very very good front axle.

This is my first post btw, hello all.
Welcome, and thanks for the reply.

Okay from what you are saying if I wanted to lift 4 inches with the cut and turn then I would move the lower ball joint out 4 inches, correct? I have looked at the Autofab kit and have not seen a price, so I will have to look into it. When you mention clearance the center joint, are you talking about the pivots for the beams? From your reply I take it that you have dealt with or researched the kits well? If you are running one of these kits would you be willing to offer a brief review? What length are the axles that are being used with these long travel kit?
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Old January 29th, 2012, 11:48 PM   #15
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Welcome, and thanks for the reply.

Okay from what you are saying if I wanted to lift 4 inches with the cut and turn then I would move the lower ball joint out 4 inches, correct? I have looked at the Autofab kit and have not seen a price, so I will have to look into it. When you mention clearance the center joint, are you talking about the pivots for the beams? From your reply I take it that you have dealt with or researched the kits well? If you are running one of these kits would you be willing to offer a brief review? What length are the axles that are being used with these long travel kit?
No on the balljoint out 4 inches. The lower joint is moved out 1/2" to 1" depending on what height you are going for. You still have the camber adjusters to help get things right, but you want to keep them at 2 degrees or smaller. Most good beam fabricators pride themselves on using 0 degree adjusters. This is not an easy job and I would discourage someone from trying it unless you have excellent fab skills. If you jack the truck up to the desired height and look at the balljoint ear, it should be obvious where it needs to go. Check out race-dezert.com and go to the shop section on the forums. Check out the links they recommend in the forums.

Solo Motorsports has the best prices I know of on beams with frequent sales on them starting at $300.

The center joint is the u-joint in the middle of the front end, right off the diff. It will need to be clearanced if you are at 16 inches of travel, but you will probably be in the 10-12" range until you get your shocks right. It will not be an immediate issue.

Factory axle lengths. Widened beams are available, but we are talking stock width beams here. This is with all stock parts except the radius arms will need to be lengthened or replaced with aftermarket/custom arms.

You can run either (or both) a 10 inch shock behind the spring and a 14 in front with a stock coil bucket, but to get big travel numbers it will require a custom shock mount. You will need Bilstien 5100s minimum. You can look at (in order of costs) FOAs, other Bilsteins, SwayAway, Fox, King, etc. You are looking for a 2.5 inch shock.

I just parted with my TTB 95 Bronco.
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Old January 30th, 2012, 07:03 AM   #16
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No on the balljoint out 4 inches. The lower joint is moved out 1/2" to 1" depending on what height you are going for. You still have the camber adjusters to help get things right, but you want to keep them at 2 degrees or smaller. Most good beam fabricators pride themselves on using 0 degree adjusters. This is not an easy job and I would discourage someone from trying it unless you have excellent fab skills. If you jack the truck up to the desired height and look at the balljoint ear, it should be obvious where it needs to go. Check out race-dezert.com and go to the shop section on the forums. Check out the links they recommend in the forums.

Solo Motorsports has the best prices I know of on beams with frequent sales on them starting at $300.

The center joint is the u-joint in the middle of the front end, right off the diff. It will need to be clearanced if you are at 16 inches of travel, but you will probably be in the 10-12" range until you get your shocks right. It will not be an immediate issue.

Factory axle lengths. Widened beams are available, but we are talking stock width beams here. This is with all stock parts except the radius arms will need to be lengthened or replaced with aftermarket/custom arms.

You can run either (or both) a 10 inch shock behind the spring and a 14 in front with a stock coil bucket, but to get big travel numbers it will require a custom shock mount. You will need Bilstien 5100s minimum. You can look at (in order of costs) FOAs, other Bilsteins, SwayAway, Fox, King, etc. You are looking for a 2.5 inch shock.

I just parted with my TTB 95 Bronco.
Thanks for the replies. You have answered several questions and given me some more places to research and think. I will probably be in contact with you some more as I start to build in the next few weeks.
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