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Old January 15th, 2012, 09:42 PM   #221
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Warn are extreamly similar to superwinch. I run stock spicers on mine and never broke one.
Good to know about the Warns

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And I've broke my Spicers fairly easilly running 37's. Slugs are nice but it sucks not being able to unlock them
If I ever ran slugs it would be just to get off the trail. Not having hydro assist and a spool sucks.
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Old January 15th, 2012, 09:50 PM   #222
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This chart has some wrong lengths in the chevy section. The chart says my springs are 54". But if you add up the lengths provided it comes out to 52", this matches my own measurements.

Just a heads up to anyone using this chart. It got me for quite a while

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Old January 15th, 2012, 11:42 PM   #223
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I was getting super bad axle wrap a few years ago, when I pulled everything apart to add some leafs because rough country leafs are garbage and went flat and wrapped because I actually wheeled my Jeep and didn't just pavement pound it, I discovered my center pins looked like a set of stairs. The leafs were shuffling around. I've been running Rough Country 4.5" packs minus 2 leafs with the 3 s10 zr2 springs (the whole pack minus eyelets) and the s10 overload for the last 2? years. It's slightly firm driving around but still flex's and a blazer is def heavier than a cherokee. If I did it again I'd def use explorer leafs like we did on a buddies. They're long and can be cut so they're like running a secondary main. I do still want to run a slightly longer main though. I'm def going 4 link someday leafs suck as you want them flexy but not too flexy so they won't wrap.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 02:47 PM   #224
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Walt, if you ever find that ds link let me know
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

book mark it.




another thing to consider when trying to determine what main leaf you want to run or what you want to do with your springs (rebuld, rearch, replace) is shackle angle. you could pony up for deaver leafs if you wanted to, but if your shackle angle is vertical itll still ride like poop on the street where you really only use a couple inches of travel. on the trail, you want about a 45* angle on your shackle to give you the best of up and down travel. or you could fine tune the angle to get the most out of your shocks while not destroying the body with your tires. its a balance.

also, be sure to get those things that go in between each leaf, or use graphite paint so that they dont squeak.

Last edited by VAhasnoWAVES; January 16th, 2012 at 02:53 PM.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 03:30 PM   #225
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So.....

My rear leafs are shot and are allowing bad axle wrap, even on the street. All the wrap has killed my drive shaft, the ears were smashed over the ujoint caps and chipped when I pressed the joint out. I put the new joint in and welded it into place to make it hold. That being said I have 2 weeks to find a replacement before a Snofari.

I have been thinking about doing a hack and tap and running some type of double cardan ds. I'm not sure if this is possible or not. I also haven't been able to find a lot of info on np233 sye. Is there one or does a np231 sye work on the np233?
Ive also been thinking about a slightly longer shaft that fits my slip yoke, maybe a truck shaft? Only reason for being longer is to compensate for the extra shaft I have exposed from the lift.

As for the leafs I have no idea where to even start. I like the flex the stock pack provided but it obviously they didnt hold up. I would like to find a set I can use the stock hangers with. I would also be interested in a set that provides about an inch more lift over a stock pack.

I have lots of ideas, but little time to decide on my options. Any suggestions?





I used the Novak Adapter for a 231 on electric shift 233.I had both T-cases just in case. They are identical. Also did not need any D/C on either shaft.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 04:49 PM   #226
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I used the Novak Adapter for a 231 on electric shift 233.I had both T-cases just in case. They are identical. Also did not need any D/C on either shaft.
Did you find one that used the tone ring and sensor for the newer chevies?
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Old January 16th, 2012, 05:37 PM   #227
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Did you find one that used the tone ring and sensor for the newer chevies?
Everything still worked speedo wise.

It was in a 96 S-blazer, it has been a few years.

Can't totally recall.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 07:10 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by VAhasnoWAVES View Post
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

book mark it.




another thing to consider when trying to determine what main leaf you want to run or what you want to do with your springs (rebuld, rearch, replace) is shackle angle. you could pony up for deaver leafs if you wanted to, but if your shackle angle is vertical itll still ride like poop on the street where you really only use a couple inches of travel. on the trail, you want about a 45* angle on your shackle to give you the best of up and down travel. or you could fine tune the angle to get the most out of your shocks while not destroying the body with your tires. its a balance.

also, be sure to get those things that go in between each leaf, or use graphite paint so that they dont squeak.
Thank you

As for the leafs I just going to replace them with another rebuilt spring that has had an extra leaf added and run a second main leaf, hopefully it will work.

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Everything still worked speedo wise.

It was in a 96 S-blazer, it has been a few years.

Can't totally recall.
I don't think that will work with the 99 and ups.
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Old January 16th, 2012, 08:08 PM   #229
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I was going to put my tone ring on the output shaft of my trans when I was still going to run the 4l60e. It just throws of your spedo off when in low lol.
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Old January 17th, 2012, 04:43 AM   #230
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Here's what what my old center pin looked like. what I'm getting at is you may be have more going on than you think. I was sure to retorque my ubolts after I drove it for so long too. maybe I had waited too long before I did.

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Old January 17th, 2012, 06:30 AM   #231
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If I ever ran slugs it would be just to get off the trail. Not having hydro assist and a spool sucks.
i feel your pain, i have the same set up.....I want hydro but I might still want a selectable, dont know what I will do first, or what ill have the money for first.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 12:45 AM   #232
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Here's what what my old center pin looked like. what I'm getting at is you may be have more going on than you think. I was sure to retorque my ubolts after I drove it for so long too. maybe I had waited too long before I did.
Thanks Ill be sure to check the bolts but you can see the wave in the spring

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i feel your pain, i have the same set up.....I want hydro but I might still want a selectable, dont know what I will do first, or what ill have the money for first.
Im not sure either both would be ideal but like you said money is always concern.

How do you phase your U joints? Ive tried and they seem to bind more
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:01 AM   #233
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Thanks Ill be sure to check the bolts but you can see the wave in the spring
if your rebuilding your pack, be sure to replace your center pins. $2 isnt much for new bolts.

also look into liners rather than using graphite paint in between your leafs to combat noise. deffinantly a good idea.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:10 AM   #234
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if your rebuilding your pack, be sure to replace your center pins. $2 isnt much for new bolts.

also look into liners rather than using graphite paint in between your leafs to combat noise. deffinantly a good idea.
I'm not sure what the plan for leafs is right now. I'm not sure Ill have time to replace them before Snofari, which is my main concern. But long term I may just link it. After talking to members of zr2usa the only way to fix axle wrap on these trucks is to order custom springs and build an anti wrap bar. That being said I would rather not spend $500+ for leafs and another $100 for a anti wrap bar, when I could link it instead.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:27 AM   #235
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I would rather not spend $500+ for leafs and another $100 for a anti wrap bar, when I could link it instead.
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Old January 20th, 2012, 01:36 AM   #236
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I cant win....



I broke the U joint when I got stuck with only 3wd. I was stuck in a ditch and could only reverse, so I put it in 4low and gave it everything the truck had, while wiggling the front tires being sure not to go to full lock. As you can see joint still failed and took out the both shafts in the process

Randys Ring and Pinion, (overstockdiffparts.com parent company) has given me a return number to warranty my new shafts so its not a total loss. But its a little uneasy to see that I'm breaking blingish parts and I haven't really wheeled it yet. Whats it take to keep this thing together RCV's????????
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Old January 20th, 2012, 05:09 AM   #237
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I cant win....



I broke the U joint when I got stuck with only 3wd. I was stuck in a ditch and could only reverse, so I put it in 4low and gave it everything the truck had, while wiggling the front tires being sure not to go to full lock. As you can see joint still failed and took out the both shafts in the process

Randys Ring and Pinion, (overstockdiffparts.com parent company) has given me a return number to warranty my new shafts so its not a total loss. But its a little uneasy to see that I'm breaking blingish parts and I haven't really wheeled it yet. Whats it take to keep this thing together RCV's????????
I've still got stock shafts if you need them for snofari. They'd need new joints though. I'm still looking for the superwinch lockouts too. But I've got the spicers for sure.

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Old January 20th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #238
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You needs 60's
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Old January 20th, 2012, 12:32 PM   #239
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there not phased, but its still a pain, I havent had as much trouble as you but i dont drive mine that often, Its only a trail rig and its not to bad as long as im moving and on soft ground
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Old January 20th, 2012, 03:23 PM   #240
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Sweet build! Can't easily tell from the pics, but did you leave the axles full width? How far do they stick out from the flares? Thinking about putting my BlaZeR2 through the swap.
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