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Old January 12th, 2012, 02:36 PM   #41
Haggar
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
But, after watching a 37" tire break an alloy D44 shaft did I decide to go to a D60..
*cough* *cough* yukon d44 stubs are as bad as stock *cough*
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Old January 12th, 2012, 05:27 PM   #42
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Who said it was a Yukon?

Just for the record, can you tell me the metallurgy and heat treat of a stock D44 and a Yukon D44 shaft?

Now you're probably going to go dig up the post where I posted all that info.

One other point, when I built up my D44, i used all Moser shafts. I used Randy's super joints. I never broke anything after that while running all the way up to my 37" Iroks. (which measured 35 1/2")
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Last edited by whiterhino; January 12th, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 05:56 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Who said it was a Yukon?
the guy that broke it, if I remember correctly.

Metallurgy, no, results from all the breaking machines and real world have shown those old Yukon stubs were bad, sometimes even worse than stock. One of the problems was Yukon sold 'stock replacements' that were sometimes marketed as 'alloys' or sometimes mistaken as them.

Just having a little fun.

The old warns seemed to be some of the best ever.

I'm just running dana 30s on everything these days..
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Old January 12th, 2012, 07:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Who said it was a Yukon?

Just for the record, can you tell me the metallurgy and heat treat of a stock D44 and a Yukon D44 shaft?

Now you're probably going to go dig up the post where I posted all that info.

One other point, when I built up my D44, i used all Moser shafts. I used Randy's super joints. I never broke anything after that while running all the way up to my 37" Iroks. (which measured 35 1/2")
But if you remember GeoBoy broke two Yukon 44 stubs with 37" (35 1/2") with a whopping 170 Hp. One in snow, which he repaired in your trailer @ Snofari and the other time going 1.5 Mph in Unilimited parking lot.
Why on earth would you build a 44 with all the extra money needed to make it 'slightly' bullit proof. Why on earth would you recommend 44's on anyting largeer than a 33"?
From now it's go 60 or go home for me.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 07:44 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
the guy that broke it, if I remember correctly.

Metallurgy, no, results from all the breaking machines and real world have shown those old Yukon stubs were bad, sometimes even worse than stock. One of the problems was Yukon sold 'stock replacements' that were sometimes marketed as 'alloys' or sometimes mistaken as them.

Just having a little fun.

The old warns seemed to be some of the best ever.

I'm just running dana 30s on everything these days..
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Originally Posted by kb8ymf View Post
But if you remember GeoBoy broke two Yukon 44 stubs with 37" (35 1/2") with a whopping 170 Hp. One in snow, which he repaired in your trailer @ Snofari and the other time going 1.5 Mph in Unilimited parking lot.
Why on earth would you build a 44 with all the extra money needed to make it 'slightly' bullit proof. Why on earth would you recommend 44's on anyting largeer than a 33"?
From now it's go 60 or go home for me.
j-kb8ymf
Common point in yellow. Yukon D44 stubs have the reputation of junk. On the contrary, I ran Mosers with 325+ hp and never broke anything and I drove it HARD. So, my point is, for a guy who says he will never go beyond a 35" tire and wants to daily drive it, a D60 is overkill. My plans were to run a 37-40" tire, so the D60 has merit. If I were staying with a 35" tire, I would not have upgraded then and I wouldn't do it now. To my knowledge, the person who bought my setup has been running 36" tires for the past 4 years without any problems.
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Old January 13th, 2012, 01:17 PM   #46
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Yeah, I'm on 35's right now, and I'll remain on 35's for another 3-4 years. I would like to go 37's after these wear out, but that will be only when I HighLine this thing. I love my suspension and stance right now.

Like I said, I do not want to deal with broken shit. If a 609 is too damn pricey then I'll maybe do a HP44/D60 shafts and outers.
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Old January 13th, 2012, 01:34 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Common point in yellow. Yukon D44 stubs have the reputation of junk. On the contrary, I ran Mosers with 325+ hp and never broke anything and I drove it HARD. So, my point is, for a guy who says he will never go beyond a 35" tire and wants to daily drive it, a D60 is overkill. My plans were to run a 37-40" tire, so the D60 has merit. If I were staying with a 35" tire, I would not have upgraded then and I wouldn't do it now. To my knowledge, the person who bought my setup has been running 36" tires for the past 4 years without any problems.
I agree. And I also love Toyota axles up to 37s. Get the RCV axles now for the D44.

I wheeled with someone in Harlan with a D60 and 35s, drag, drag, drag, drag, drag, hung up, drag. Comapred with me on 36s and Toys, it was rediculous.


But I'm not building a 500HP Jeep with a dana 30 front, so, not the best to listen to.
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Old January 13th, 2012, 01:41 PM   #48
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One other point from a $$$$ standpoint is that if you already have 5 on 5.5 wheels, you are good to go with Ford D44/9" combo. Do a 60 and you are either converting bolt patterns or buying new wheels.
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Old January 13th, 2012, 08:36 PM   #49
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Just out of curiousity how much ground clearance difference are you going to gain running a hi9 over a currie rock jock 60? Seems like a cheaper way to go since you don't have to buy the uber expensive third member.
My shaved housing 9"s had 1" more clearance than my stock d44's.

12.5" under the pig on 38 SX's.
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