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Old December 27th, 2011, 05:50 AM   #41
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Great Build.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 06:44 AM   #42
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cool build
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Old December 27th, 2011, 07:41 AM   #43
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Do you have any rubbe isolatoer on the top of the front coil springs? Seems like it will sqeak like a mofo.

Great progress!!
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Old December 27th, 2011, 08:24 AM   #44
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Looking good, the single triangulated four link will do just fine.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 08:47 AM   #45
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the isolator never clicked to me....ill have to come up with something....that skipped my mind because the factory buckets were spring to metal....but now that u say that i bet it will squeek....i do have u bolts holding the spring tight to the perch but im sure it could have a small amount of play when it is compressing or drooping.
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Old December 30th, 2011, 09:58 AM   #46
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Nice looking truck so far!
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Old December 30th, 2011, 02:59 PM   #47
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the isolator never clicked to me....ill have to come up with something....that skipped my mind because the factory buckets were spring to metal....but now that u say that i bet it will squeek....i do have u bolts holding the spring tight to the perch but im sure it could have a small amount of play when it is compressing or drooping.
Had I known - I may have a couple of 1" poly spacers I could have given you.
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Old December 30th, 2011, 10:39 PM   #48
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I can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old December 31st, 2011, 06:16 PM   #49
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Thank-you for all the compliments! This is the furthest I have ever gotten on any project before losing interest. I think mainly because Ive had the truck for 6 years now, since i turned 16, and my dad had it since it was almost new. I didn't get a whole lot done today. I mainly cut the upper control arms to length, and plug welded the inserts into the end. I used 1.5x.25 dom with cromoly heim on one poly bushing on the other end


I did pick up some chevy outers for the dana 44 with one high steer arm and the other set up for it plus the spindles and brake backing plates. What do I have to do for rotors and hubs with this setup? run the chevy hubs and rotor? or will the ford stuff cross over? the spindles are different between the ford and chevy as far as bolt up.


I need to pickup a ruffstuff sterling bolt on disc conversion for the rear. Right now they are offering 15 percent off so I will probably order that.

I figured the single truss hoop was ugly and weak...so this is what I came up with....



Last edited by jeepxj2007; April 13th, 2012 at 09:37 AM.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 06:41 PM   #50
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The Chevy spindle/knuckles have 6 bolts the ford has 5 bolts, one won't work with the other as far as those parts go. But, depending on what spindles you got, you can run Ford hubs and brakes or Chevy hubs and brakes. Just depends on what pattern you want to run.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 06:53 PM   #51
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I want to run 8 lug so that I dont have to have 2 5 lug rims and 2 8 lug rims....I have pairs of both right now as far as chevy and ford spindles and knuckles...I want to use the chevy knuckles because of the high steer arms....I noticed that the ford only had 5 bolts while the chevy had 6....the chevy knuckle's hole where the axle slides through is quite a bit smaller too but the axle shafts still slide through it....i can use the axle shafts from the ford though right? I would just have to pickup chevy rotors/hubs/bearings and brakes correct?
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Old December 31st, 2011, 07:49 PM   #52
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i have chevy high steer knuckles and spindles on my ford axle d44, i had the chevy spindle turnd down to except the ford wheel bearing and then bolt the ford hub on as u normaly would onto the chevy spindle, being the only thing that holds it on is the spindle nuts anyways. or i belive u can get the chevy "small spindle" hub assembly and then the ford bearings fit without turning them down, u might also pm johnD as i think that is the way he went. jope this helps
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Old December 31st, 2011, 08:20 PM   #53
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Quote:
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i have chevy high steer knuckles and spindles on my ford axle d44, i had the chevy spindle turnd down to except the ford wheel bearing and then bolt the ford hub on as u normaly would onto the chevy spindle, being the only thing that holds it on is the spindle nuts anyways. or i belive u can get the chevy "small spindle" hub assembly and then the ford bearings fit without turning them down, u might also pm johnD as i think that is the way he went. jope this helps
You only need to go through that if you want to run Ford 5-lug hubs....he wants 8-lug.

I'd suggest Chevy/Jeep 8-lug outers, you can keep your axle shafts, but you'll need 3/4-ton Chevy/Jeep caliper mounts, hubs, and rotors. The caliper brackets you show with the Chevy knuckles may be 3/4 ton already, hard to tell from the pic....depending on what Ford 8-lug hubs you have, you may be able to use those, measure the wheel bearing ID and the spindle OD...
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Old December 31st, 2011, 09:58 PM   #54
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Quote:
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I figured the single truss hoop was ugly and weak...so this is what I came up with....
I am missing the point of this truss...strength for bending? Just looks like it is really close to the center section and adding little to no strength. What am I missing?
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Old January 1st, 2012, 07:21 AM   #55
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It has nothing to do with keeping the axle from bending...if that sucker is going to bend its going to bend....The whole purpose is to mount the upper links to for the 4 link, the reason it has two hoops is to take the force off of the single hoop...If you think about it, its basically a lever right where it mounts if it was just a single hoop from the twisting force of the axle...how much force that is there I couldn't really awnser for you...it was pretty high though before and looked ugly to me and weak as far as attachement to the axle tube...this way it braces itself somewhat from twisting forward or backwards
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Old January 1st, 2012, 07:24 AM   #56
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I do believe the caliper backing plates in the picture are from a 3/4 ton also...it came off a buddies jeep but I couldn't remember how he had it set up but I am 90 percent sure it was 8 lug...thats what all of that stuff in the picture came from...he had to readjust the camber though with some degree shims...is this common with going to chevy stuff on the outside of the ford axle? It looked to me though that the brake setup in the picture is single piston compared to the ford dual piston that came off the axle originally....In theory I should be good just ordering all singlepiston 3/4 ton chevy parts from everything out shouldn't I?
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 08:03 PM   #57
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I set the mounts up on the truss and figured out my 4 link upper arms...so far i am happy with how it turned out...i did a little messing around with the two pieces of tube that the tabs are going to come off of to catch the upper links on the frame side....they fit nicely though after a little messing around with the angles on the tube notcher. Everything is tacked on the axle....what is the best way to set up shocks? in front of the axle, behind, on top one in front one in back of the tube...i've seen it pretty much everyway....it probably doesn't matter too much I take it...just wanted some input on that...here are some pics of her....



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Old January 3rd, 2012, 06:11 AM   #58
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I like it!

Shoot me your addy if you want those 1" coil spacers to use as isolators.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:36 AM   #59
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Quote:
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ive seen it done personally on a few rigs and noticed nothing wrong with the way they handle..i guess i haven't been in one to compare that was triagulated top and bottom
.....i agree that it would probably be better moved out...but i don't see a rule that it has to be triangulated on the lowers...the uppers is where it will be triangulated on this...i probably can move it out and will, but even when i was under my cousins mustang they weret triangulated on the bottom...but straight...when i was playing with the 4 link calculator it wasn't making huge gains on anything moving them out a significant distance...i'll look at it again and take it into consideration, i haven't played with it for a while, but i remember i played with the numbers and it didn't seem to really change too much of the oversteer or underster..i cant remember...i mean dont get me wrong i agree but i dont recall it making a night and day difference in any of the numbers moving it out
It can and will work, but it'll get a lot more axle steer under flex, and if you don't have enough triangulation of the uppers the axle could essentially walk around a bit. You'll probably be fine, I just wondered why you didn't triangulate the lowers more when it didn't look like there was any reason not to. Too much can be as much of an issue as too little depending on the uses of the rig, but personally I'd prefer more than you have. As for the Mustang comparison, that's apples and oranges. Totally different design for totally different uses.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 11:30 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepxj2007 View Post
I do believe the caliper backing plates in the picture are from a 3/4 ton also...it came off a buddies jeep but I couldn't remember how he had it set up but I am 90 percent sure it was 8 lug...thats what all of that stuff in the picture came from...he had to readjust the camber though with some degree shims...is this common with going to chevy stuff on the outside of the ford axle? It looked to me though that the brake setup in the picture is single piston compared to the ford dual piston that came off the axle originally....In theory I should be good just ordering all singlepiston 3/4 ton chevy parts from everything out shouldn't I?
1/2ton and 3/4 ton chevy run the same caliper brackets, so youll be all set running those. chevy is a single piston caliper for the year of d44 axle your ripped those parts from. you should be able to run either ford of chevy 8 lug hubs on those chevy spindles, as i have done it. the axle shimming was mostly from putting longer+taller leafs in the jeep. my truck runs them front and back. theyre there to help with pinion angle and camber so itll ride nicer, and not to do with the difference between chevy hubs on ford d44 or vice versa. ill check my shelves i may have some spare parts for ya.
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