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Old November 12th, 2011, 10:35 PM   #1
cerial
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Default Would this Parking break idea work?

I am designing a street legal buggy turns out to pass the inspection I do need a parking break. I was not planning on having one just a micro lock that would hold giving me enough time to hook up a winch or restart the truck. Regarding the parking break the description in the statue reads like this:
257.705 (a) A motor vehicle, other than a motorcycle or moped, and a low-speed vehicle when operated upon a highway shall be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold the vehicle, including 2 separate means of applying the brakes, each of which means shall be effective to apply the brakes to at least 2 wheels. If these 2 separate means of applying the brakes are connected in any way, they shall be constructed in a way that failure of 1 part of the operating mechanism shall not leave the motor vehicle without brakes on at least 2 wheels.

So, I do need a mechanical parking break. I could do a transfer case break but that would cause the thing to leak like a sob.

I really don't want to have a cable of any type hanging down to the breaks. This thing is going to be a belly dagger and any cable hanging down during droop will get snagged.

I planed on using a stubby shaft with a support bearing to keep the stubby front drive shaft within the belly skid plate. Then using a second front drive shaft to engage the front axle. Think of Trent fab's 151 buggies stubby shaft only I am using a Dana 18 instead of a Atlas for the Saturn overdrive.

The solution I have come up for the parking break is having the stubby drive shaft made/balanced with a flange in the center. This shaft would not move at all during any suspension travel/flex only rotate. I would then sandwich the flange with 2 break pads by pulling a mechanical linkage lever. Once again the stubby drive shaft does not drop at all due to the retainer bearing. So, there for no binding during suspension flex would occur with the parking break.

The transfer case is a Dana 18 with twin sticks. Now with the hubs unlocked the front drive shaft does not move during 2wd operation. This would mean that I would need to put the transfer case into 4wd then pull the parking lever to engage the parking break locking the rear axles. If I had the hubs locked I would only need to engage the parking lever holding the front axle.

This would only be used when stopped as a parking break. So I do not see any vibration or load issues like I would have if the parking break was on the rear axle. Even with the front hubs engaged, the drive shaft being balanced (with the flange) would not cause any load or vibration issues like with a rear drive shaft transfer case parking break.

I thought I would toss it out and get some other peoples opinions maybe I am overlooking something very obvious like the strain on the transfer case in some way or something.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 10:14 AM   #2
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all sounds good... I believe they would rule out the tcase brake in case of driveline failure. That is why the ebrakes are at the wheels. A vehicle won't roll to easy without one.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:40 AM   #3
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My 69 cj-5 has the rear transfer case parking break. It was a factory option for years.

It is a drum style though. They fill full of mud and the seals blow sending oil into the pads making it pretty useless as a parking break. It also shortens the drive shaft by roughly 2".

This would be no different in theory from a breaking stand point. Actually if the hubs are engaged on the front and I engage this in 4wd all 4 wheels would be locked when parked if in gear. In neutral only the front would be locked if the front hubs are locked.

From a emergency break standpoint it is ludicrous to use if I was in 2wd because it would only lock up the front axle and only if the hubs were engaged. If I was in 4wd though this would lock up all 4 wheels. If I was in 4wd with the front hubs disconnected it would lock up only the rear wheels.

I have never actually used a emergency break in a emergency situation. I like to have control at all times which is why I don't like airbags. ie you hit a deer going 50 and bag deploys. In a daze state your still going 40 mph heading for a tree.

The checklist says I need a parking break. Not a emergency break. Emergency break is for stopping at high speeds. Parking break is to keep the rig from moving once parked.

This is the most secure/clean spot I can put this and it will work(in 4wd with the hubs engaged) even if I remove either drive shaft.

The Dana 18 uses a shaft that goes straight through connecting both axles. I don't see how this would cause any additional strain unless I did try to use it at highway speeds or take off with the parking break on.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 01:03 PM   #4
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t case break is fine land rover used them up to 2000 or so. not sure if the fact the pb is not allways useable being on the front output will be a problem
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Old November 13th, 2011, 08:05 PM   #5
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I am hoping they are just looking for a system that won't allow the rig to roll into traffic. This is one of the few rules that I am bending in this build. I have went out of my way in this design so there is no question about the legality of this rig. This is one of those few exceptions where technically it is legal but may raise a eyebrow if I get a picky inspector.

If this was not getting inspected and was a street only ride it would not even have a parking break. I will find a curb or a rut before ever engaging a cable parking break. Last one I broke was in 2002 January 3am 30 degrees out and I'm under the truck trying to get the cable to release. After that I said never again.

I will use this to pass inspection and on the trail but see very little need to use it at all on the street.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:44 PM   #6
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why not use a inline park brake..will hold pressure to your rear wheels.....sorta like a linelock but it is manual rather than electrical
if it is ok for dunebuggys it should be ok in this aplication
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Old November 14th, 2011, 04:40 PM   #7
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Brake
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:29 AM   #8
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this is what i was talking about

http://www.appletreeauto.com/VW-BRAK...LIC-PARK-LOCK/
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:33 AM   #9
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I'm going to have to get one of them since I can almost assure my e-brake cables are froze from sitting.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 09:39 PM   #10
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they work very well
however dont put a ton of presure on the brake when setting it it will be hard to release it though lol
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brake, brakes, cerial, driveshaft, parking break, transfer case

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