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Old October 26th, 2011, 06:50 PM   #41
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Just thought I might throw in another memory for you John.



If you think John looks pissed, it's because he is. He spent about 20 minutes trying to get out of that little bowl. And yes, the pictures do it justice.

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Old October 26th, 2011, 08:36 PM   #42
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Thanks for the memories Jim. Good to know that one of the Dirt Riot races will be held there. Maybe they will race through there and I can try it again.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 08:49 PM   #43
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I had a blast that day.
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Old November 1st, 2011, 03:29 PM   #44
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The old frame is ready to move out, time to move the new frame in. Tomorrow night we'll be in the garage, hopefully mocking up the engine, trans and t-case after doing the garage shuffle.
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Old November 3rd, 2011, 12:18 AM   #45
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Good night in the garage. JeepM715 and I started stripping parts of the Wag before sitting down for some dinner. We got most everything that we can off it for now. After dinner we wrapped up the Wag and parked her in the barn and then we got to work moving out the old frame and bringing in the engine and frame.

JeepM715 picked up the engine from a local yard. He had a line on this 6.0 LQ4 from a 2006 van, but we had been nervous that somehow it would disappear before we had a chance to pick it up. We had hoped to get the engine complete, but the MAF, power steering pump, alternator. and starter had been pulled off. It did come with the computer and full harness, so that should save us some time searching for that.

As we got the engine dropped in the frame AlumCJ rolled up. The three of us got the trans mated up to the engine with the t-case hanging off the back. Things went down hill after that as we dropped the tub on the frame, and then tried to figure out what exactly we will do with the rear end.

Here's a few pics of how we left it for the night.





And I have to say that bolt-on stuff rocks. I had picked up some Novak engine mounts and headers and we had the engine hanging within about 10 minutes.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 02:08 AM   #46
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Some details are coming together. Now to order the parts so we can start building.

We are going to the build the main 6-point structure of the cage out of 2x0.120 tube. We will fill in the rest with 1.75 and 1.5 in 0.120 wall. We think we will be near or above 4200#, which is where the bump from 1.75 to 2.0 occurs for Ultra4 rules. The last time I weighed the TJ it was 3900#, which was on 39s but no spare and less extras.

Links are likely going to 2x0.25 for the lowers front and rear, and 1.5" for the uppers and steering. Rod ends will be 7/8x3/4.

Fuel cell is a Jegs 22 gallon cell in a steel can (555-15514). I saw an ad for $20 off, so I figured I would order it up since we need it anyway. The thing I like about the Jegs units besides cost, is that it has three ports instead of 2 like some other budget cells. We ran the plastic only Jegs 32-gallon cell on the Wag with no issues.

I also picked up some used 35 BFG Mud Terrains over the weekend. We will likely pick up another set before race season to have some extras. We went through 3 tires last season in 6 races.

Saturday night I started chopping up the engine harness. I did the cut and modify on my Jeep 4.7 V8 harness, and I have to say that the GM harness is much easier to work with. The Jeep harness had tons of splices and I was constantly cutting and crimping wires. The GM harness had dedicated lines for most everything, except one large clump of grounds that are spliced together, but at least they are in the same spot.

I read somewhere that a seam ripper is a handy tool when doing harnesses, and I have to agree. It slices through tape so easily. The smaller one did not end up being handy until I broke the larger seam ripper. The double sided velcro made the job much easier, too. I think I have about $12 in tools in this pic, and well worth it. I was able to cut pieces to the length I wanted and I could quickly open and close sections of the harness.



So here's the stock harness as it was pulled.


Stripped down. I will probably leave it like this until we lay the harness back on the engine and test fire it. Once I know everything is good and the harness lays right, then I'll tape it up. JeepM715 is supposed to be tracking down some Tesa 51025 that Ebs mentioned in my other thread.



Here's the pile of scrap.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 12:01 PM   #47
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Wow. Huge respect for you wiring guys. That stuff scares the bejeebus out of me.
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Old November 8th, 2011, 01:05 PM   #48
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Wow. Huge respect for you wiring guys. That stuff scares the bejeebus out of me.
X2 Indeed
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Old November 11th, 2011, 02:17 PM   #49
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We were out in the garage the other night and did not make much forward progress, but we got one thing done. We are trying out a new control arm design. I think this will work great because speedholes rock.



We spent most of the evening staring and thinking about how to get as much up travel as possible. One thing became obvious and that's the original bridge over the pig and the stock track bar mount must go.

This weekend I hope to strip the old brackets off the axle, and most of them off the frame, but some like these lowers seem to help show where the axle went stock, so I'll have to leave a little behind.

Shocks, tube, and rod ends should all be on order.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:32 AM   #50
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Partially cleaned one side of the frame up front. Doing the spring mount wasn't bad, but I forgot how much it sucks to take off the track bar bracket.





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Old November 13th, 2011, 04:38 PM   #51
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We were out in the garage the other night and did not make much forward progress, but we got one thing done. We are trying out a new control arm design. I think this will work great because speedholes rock.



We spent most of the evening staring and thinking about how to get as much up travel as possible. One thing became obvious and that's the original bridge over the pig and the stock track bar mount must go.

This weekend I hope to strip the old brackets off the axle, and most of them off the frame, but some like these lowers seem to help show where the axle went stock, so I'll have to leave a little behind.

Shocks, tube, and rod ends should all be on order.
Control arms are still too heavy.

Wow you're putting a lot of work into this. I can't wait to see you whoop on Hoser. Are you planning on hitting the race at R&V?
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:33 PM   #52
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The new car will be in a different class than Hoser, unless he steps up.

Hoping to hit R&V and the other Dirt Riot races. We'll see how the budget (time & money) goes.

Went to work on the front D60 removing the old brackets to start new. The old bridge was kind of wide and would have limited up travel. I left part of the lowers so we can hookup our light weight control arms in single sheer.

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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:51 PM   #53
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Most of the brackets are cleaned off the frame. The rear section still needs to be cleaned up, but the spring buckets, upper control arm brackets and rear track bar bracket are gone.

I did find some of Michigan's finest tucked behind the passenger upper control arm mount.


Then I took the driver's side off and found a whole bunch more. Unfortunately, I don't think we can chop this section out, so we'll just have to plate over it.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 04:24 PM   #54
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The front is sitting at full bump right now. Not sure if we can squeeze any more up travel out without major surgery. The plan is to leave the front in stock location and stretch it all out the back. We figure this will make front packaging easier, since thousands of long arm TJs run this way -- no need to reinvent the wheel.

I've got to start designing up the brackets and cutting parts. All of the tube is here, and the rod ends are at Motor City Machines, just have to pick them up.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 05:08 PM   #55
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get to work
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 07:01 PM   #56
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where did you order the radflos. and why did you choose them over others.
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 09:52 PM   #57
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Tonight I spent some time grabbing measurements to try and figure out where suspension will end up. I made a basic outline of the TJ frame, the front section isn't exactly right since I didn't bother drawing the pinch in, but the rest is reasonable.



Green lines are the frame rail for a stock TJ, red lines are the axles, and purple lines show where the links will fall. Front links are all 36" long, rears will be about 40" long.

With how close the uppers and lowers fall, I'm trying to figure out if I want to go the lazy route and make brackets with the uppers and lowers directly over one another like many of the DIY brackets are.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 07:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
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Wow. Huge respect for you wiring guys. That stuff scares the bejeebus out of me.
a good set of schematics and it's all a walk in the park
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Old November 24th, 2011, 08:02 PM   #59
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You going to 3 link the front? Is there a reason to not look at a 4 link? My reason.... I find that the joints that take the most abuse are the uppers on my 3 link and I'm not beating it hard in the whoops like you will be doing. By going 4 link I would think they would hold up better.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 08:07 PM   #60
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thanks for the info on radflo. im gonna give them a call. they are priced well from what ive looked at.

a 4 link definetly is better for the high speed stuff in my opinion. i know some 3 links have won big races like koh. but if you can fit a 4 link i think it will be much better. i dont think i can package a 4 link so thats why i was going to go 3 link. im sure thats the same reasoning your using. no room no room no room.
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