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Old November 5th, 2011, 01:15 PM   #1
cerial
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Default 350/465 Dowel pin location.

In the pile of parts I currently have is a cast 465 bell housing that will be mounted I have a rebuilt 465 that is been adapted to a Dana 18 (from Herm)with all bells and whistles.

I plan on using a stock or very mildly built 350 and converting it to propane.

The reason I am using a 350 is so I can run the engine on its side and such and when it goes out I can easily replace it with another for 1/3 the cost of rebuilding say a Buick 225. Not to mention I can find a rebuilt 350 easily, have it waiting in a corner somewhere, and swap it out in a weekend instead of having the down time of rebuilding a Buick 225.

What I keep racking my brain over is the dowel pins. And what years to look for a recently rebuilt 350 (less then 30k) that will have the dowel pins to mount the cast 465 bell housing to flawlessly so I do not need to machine the block in any way.

I am probably over thinking this and the dowel pins may slide out and be interchangeable in some blocks. I just don't want to find myself in a situation where I need to machine the block because it was not meant to mate to the 465 bell.

What year/style(Truck/car etc)350 blocks will mate to the cast 465 bell flawlessly?
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Old November 5th, 2011, 01:39 PM   #2
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any. the hard part is do you have a cast bell with the 3 bolt starter, or the starter that bolts to the motor. the bell housing bolted starters are veeery hard to find.
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Old November 5th, 2011, 01:43 PM   #3
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All 4.3 small block and big block Chevy's will bolt right up no problem. The only thing you have to watch is if you go with a one piece rear main seal 350, those take a different flywheel than the older 350s. The new ones have to have a weighted flywheel where the old ones don't.

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Old November 5th, 2011, 02:07 PM   #4
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Yea, plan on using a pre 86 2 piece rear seal I will just replace the seal when I do the clutch. Going to use a high torque mini starter of some type to avoid any issues with the starter cone. If need be I can always grind/weld to the cast bell. I need to make a removable cover anyway to keep the mud out.

Will start looking for a 153 tooth flywheel stock motor that has been used with a 465 manual to avoid any issues.

To my knowledge there is no difference between the cast and the aluminum bell housing as far as dowel pins go. Good chance of me finding one with a aluminum bell. Then simply bolting the cast one/rebuilt trans/dana18 in place of the old drive train.

I just chose the cast one so I could have a inspection cover and weld to it for things like the starter or slave cylinder if need be. I may have a bit of trouble switching it over to the hydraulic clutch up front. But once I get it adjusted right, I am sure I will be glad I chose the cast one after the thing sits rocker deep in the mud over night.

Once again over thinking it I guess, thanks for the help.
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Old November 5th, 2011, 02:28 PM   #5
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what are you using to do the hydro conversion? I'm in the same boat with my tahoe.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 10:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deerebowtie View Post
any. the hard part is do you have a cast bell with the 3 bolt starter, or the starter that bolts to the motor. the bell housing bolted starters are veeery hard to find.
Nope.

Got a rebuilt one for $50 at an AutoValue. I has two of those damned bellhousings.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 10:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerial View Post
Yea, plan on using a pre 86 2 piece rear seal I will just replace the seal when I do the clutch. Going to use a high torque mini starter of some type to avoid any issues with the starter cone. If need be I can always grind/weld to the cast bell. I need to make a removable cover anyway to keep the mud out.

Will start looking for a 153 tooth flywheel stock motor that has been used with a 465 manual to avoid any issues.

To my knowledge there is no difference between the cast and the aluminum bell housing as far as dowel pins go. Good chance of me finding one with a aluminum bell. Then simply bolting the cast one/rebuilt trans/dana18 in place of the old drive train.

I just chose the cast one so I could have a inspection cover and weld to it for things like the starter or slave cylinder if need be. I may have a bit of trouble switching it over to the hydraulic clutch up front. But once I get it adjusted right, I am sure I will be glad I chose the cast one after the thing sits rocker deep in the mud over night.

Once again over thinking it I guess, thanks for the help.
I have a 94 TBI block - bolted right up to the bellhousing. One thing to keep in mind - a 153T FW will limit your maximum clutch size - if that is a concern for you. Running hydraulics shouldn't be a problem: 1960-62 chevy c-10s used hydraulic setups. You can also make your own, here's one "pulling" setup I have on my 66 c10 w/a T-5:

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Old November 7th, 2011, 10:48 AM   #8
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part number for the slave used in the pic above, better still, can i offer cash for trade :)
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Old November 7th, 2011, 10:56 AM   #9
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part number for the slave used in the pic above, better still, can i offer cash for trade :)
Speedway Motors, P/N 910-25604

I made the super-fancy mounting bracket.
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