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Old October 17th, 2011, 01:18 PM   #81
Freak
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Told you linux > windows
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I got your jeep thing, now my damn Chevy wont start, and its missing a wheel.
My build: http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=206107
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 07:12 PM   #82
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Well the the blazer finally made it home....



Thanks Dad for the ride
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:02 PM   #83
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So I take it your back in White Lake? If you need a hand up here, let me know.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:28 PM   #84
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Itís in Mt. Pleasant now.

Thanks, I might take you up on that offer once I get my shop manuals shipped up from home. But until then I canít really do anything, everything obvious has been replaced and checked. Iím lost.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:46 PM   #85
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Great build i live in Pontiac and drive to big rapids 2-3 times a month. If you ever need anything transported up there.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:51 PM   #86
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I'm still available to lend you a hand.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 08:58 PM   #87
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I take it the pcm wasnt the issue?
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 10:10 PM   #88
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I hope you get everything figured out. Thanks for the present. I will come up hopfully befor the snow flies. And it better be running again. Or you can buy the focus next year.
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 12:08 AM   #89
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Your Blazer looks awesome, Wadey. I have to ask though (and I apologize if this has already been covered), why keep the front cross member? I can't believe that doesn't hit the diff cover or tie rod.

I do really like the look of the skid plate with a SFA.
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 11:07 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelman View Post
Great build i live in Pontiac and drive to big rapids 2-3 times a month. If you ever need anything transported up there.
Thanks, and if I ever need anything brought up ill let you know

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Originally Posted by buttercr125 View Post
I'm still available to lend you a hand.
Yeah like I told bevertown I wont be doing a whole lot until I get my books. But if I get stuck after I that Ill be sure to give you a call. Thanks again for all your help already!

Quote:
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I take it the pcm wasnt the issue?
Nope, at least we dont think so, it could be anything at this point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy_gIna View Post
I hope you get everything figured out. Thanks for the present. I will come up hopfully befor the snow flies. And it better be running again. Or you can buy the focus next year.
Thanks man for the all the help and comfy couch Let me know you your ready to start working on the blazer, even if it is just to replace the back window

As much as I liked your gas saving, nice riding, street legal gocart. I have to have a truck and trailer as my next ride. Last two times out I broke it. Time for my dd to turn into a rig
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 11:25 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14x4 View Post
Your Blazer looks awesome, Wadey. I have to ask though (and I apologize if this has already been covered), why keep the front cross member? I can't believe that doesn't hit the diff cover or tie rod.

I do really like the look of the skid plate with a SFA.
Thanks, I kept it for a couple of reasons. Main reason was to keep it simple, why reinvent the wheel if you donít have too? Most of the cross member is there, it has been trimmed on the back side for the tie rod to clear. But keeping it kept me from having to build another cross member, as that is the only one in the front part of the frame. As you noticed it let me keep the skid plate which I really like, tie rod protection is sooo nice, and being able to keep the oil filter in the stock location made everything that much easier.

Best part of keeping the skid, is at first glance it looks like its IFS. In fact the only part that gives it away from the front is the flat tie rod, even then itís fooled quite a few.
Nothing like a sleeper
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Old November 1st, 2011, 07:00 PM   #92
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Whatís everyoneís opinion about the almost alloy kit? I canít afford chromos but I can build my own almost alloy kit in my shop class. Is this better than just tacking the caps? Or does the heat from the welding weaken the shaft?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-S_AAK

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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:02 PM   #93
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Not sure you would have much fun installing those shafts. I had trouble fitting mine thru the knuckle with just tack welds to hold the caps.

Honestly, I see no real benefit to doing that anyway, not sure I would even bother. Just tack the caps.
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:14 PM   #94
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hmm thatís a good point, I forgot about space limitations on the knuckle.

I had my caps tacked and I broke one side at the ears, probably from the ball joint failing. But the other side stretched far enough to oval out the yokes and pop out a cap. They are bad enough that I can see day light around all of my caps and their only held in by the tacks. I was hoping that these would be a cheap way to keep the ears from stretching.
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:34 PM   #95
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Does it run yet?
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:36 PM   #96
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Nope not yet
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 10:09 PM   #97
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When are you getting the tech manuals? What have you changed so far? I know you said it wasn't getting fuel. I'm assuming you did pump and filter, did you check fuel pressure at the rail?
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 10:27 PM   #98
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I should have the manuals by the weekend, and I found out it wasnít a fuel problem. Itís a problem with the spark. I have replaced the entire ignition system with no luck. I found that I have power to the coil, leaving it to be the interment pulse. The crank position sensor sends the pulse to the computer and then the computer sends it to the ignitron control module which feeds the coil.

Iíve replaced and checked for continuity at the CPS so the computer is getting a signal. However it looks like this is also how the computer shuts the truck off. So it could be a security problem or the Inertia switch.

Could be anything at this point
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 10:46 PM   #99
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there's a lot of help on the board here, throw ta synopsis and lets toss some ideas.
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Old November 3rd, 2011, 05:02 AM   #100
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Tacking the caps won't keep the ears from stretching. They just keep the caps from coming out if the snap ring fails. I've seen a lot of people do it but I've never seen the need if the yoke is in good shape. If it's not in good shape, you're going to have joint failure anyway.
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