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Old October 6th, 2011, 07:41 PM   #61
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thanks. starting to save up now and i'll ask around.
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Old October 7th, 2011, 09:58 PM   #62
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got the drums off of the front axle but the rear axle has 3 philips screws in each. i got 1 out of each side but the other 4 nearly disintegrated when i turned them with nearly no effort. so how do i get them out now?

driver side

passenger side


the videos are of me draining the trans and transfer case. wanted a video to show you guys the color of each

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...002_145634.mp4

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...002_150137.mp4
this will be my very first post or reply or whatever on this site lol so bare with me,looks like you have a very nice project jeep congratulations.do whatever makes you happy with engine and trans, tires shocks all that shit,but do yourself a huge favor get rid of the hub bolts replace with studs i never run any 4x4 wirth bolts holding on my hubs they get lose even with locktight they strip all that shit just put studs in and you can pass it on to all others that have problems with bolts stripped and hubs messing up because of it.ps i also run an 82 cj7,swapped jeep axles for toyota been wheeling wa. state and oregon hard for 12 years now never a problem,5:30 gears 36 in swampers gl and enjoy.
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Old October 8th, 2011, 03:50 PM   #63
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i was thinking maybe a dana 44 front axle and gm 14 bolt rear?
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Old October 9th, 2011, 10:00 AM   #64
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didn't realize how big a 14 bolt rear axle is. thinking a set of waggy 44's now
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Old October 9th, 2011, 01:09 PM   #65
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didn't realize how big a 14 bolt rear axle is. thinking a set of waggy 44's now
Oddly enough a 14 bolt will probably be cheaper to buy/build than a 44 and you can gain more clearance by using a 13 bolt kit so it won't hang down so far. Best part is other than fluid changes you can beat it bad and forget about breaking it

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Old October 9th, 2011, 05:02 PM   #66
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Oddly enough a 14 bolt will probably be cheaper to buy/build than a 44 and you can gain more clearance by using a 13 bolt kit so it won't hang down so far. Best part is other than fluid changes you can beat it bad and forget about breaking it

yeah i watched on xtreme 4x4 them rebuild one and cut the bottom short like that. they said they're very good and cheap axles.
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Old October 12th, 2011, 12:15 PM   #67
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Power booster & master cyl $50
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Old October 12th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #68
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thanks for that. hopefully i didn't miss it
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Old October 12th, 2011, 04:37 PM   #69
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ok apparently im an idiot for stating facts but w/e i dont really care what these over builders say
acording to them anything that doesnt have a d44 or better is junk
i like to have fun wheeling without spending too much money

here is a write up to help you make a more educated decision on your rear done by four wheeler magazine its not anything i said its found on the internet
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...als/index.html

and i still say go with the d30 front, almost every jeep that i wheel with is running either the cj or wrangler 30 front and i know of at least 5 with v8s and no they dont break them every time they go out, they dont break so that is all i have to say about that
this is the money wise opinion ya sure you could go to tons but i dont see any need to especially since your axles already have lockers in them anyway
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Old October 12th, 2011, 05:36 PM   #70
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ok apparently im an idiot for stating facts but w/e i dont really care what these over builders say
acording to them anything that doesnt have a d44 or better is junk
i like to have fun wheeling without spending too much money

here is a write up to help you make a more educated decision on your rear done by four wheeler magazine its not anything i said its found on the internet
http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...als/index.html

and i still say go with the d30 front, almost every jeep that i wheel with is running either the cj or wrangler 30 front and i know of at least 5 with v8s and no they dont break them every time they go out, they dont break so that is all i have to say about that
this is the money wise opinion ya sure you could go to tons but i dont see any need to especially since your axles already have lockers in them anyway
Over builders? For the terrain & trails my friends & I (and many of the people here) run, 20's & 30's don't last. In another thread aren't you and your buddy trying to sell reptile stuff off of blown up AMC 20 & Dana 30 axles??? If they are so great why did they blow up? Why are there tons of parts all over from blown up 20 & 30 axles? I know why, because AMC 20's & Dana 30's are junk. More so when you get into the 35" and up tire range. Weld the tube to the center of a 20 and you just end up with a bent tube welded to a paper weight. Add the cost of a truss & labor and you will have more into 20 than a 44. In one of my Jeeps I only have $1400 into two narrowed Dana 44's, Moser alloys all around, 4w disc, Detroit lockers & 4:88's. The shafts were the only new parts.

And as for Four Wheeler's article Go cheap ($) and hope it's as strong is a build approach I'll pass on. As an aside, I see from the article that I have 15 years more experience than Tri County Gear at setting up and narrowing Jeep axles
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Old October 12th, 2011, 06:23 PM   #71
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I couldn't care less what a magazine article says is the right way to go. I've wheeled everything from a welded D25 running 38's (yes you read that right) to a D60 running 40's and many combo's in between. Simply stated, a D30 and a D44 are both running the same size u-joints and over time they FAIL when running any tire 33" and up if the rig is wheeled hard. Hill climbs, rocks and logs take their toll.

On the other hand, if you plan to use your rig for 2 tracking and the occasional trip to the dunes, a D30 is fine, as are the other axles mentioned.
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Old October 12th, 2011, 06:29 PM   #72
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Well that axle the the one pieces came from blew up because somebody did a HORIBLE job at Lincoln locking it and there was shit floating around in it plus the pinion angle was way to high and it overheated and took a shit going down the road so no not because it is junk and that guy went to a 44 only because it is easier to find a 44 with 373 gears then a nt 20 with 373s
The reason there is probably so many broke axles is because of careless/stupid drivers
I'm going of facts and experience as well, it may not be all my experience but experience all the same
As far as weldingthe tubes and a truss on the 20 if u don't know how to weld find a friend that can and make your own truss fukc all this buying after market parts it's alot cheaper
Learn some fab skills
And yes I know of 2 jeeps that break front d44 u joints more then whenthey ran the d30 up front

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Old October 12th, 2011, 07:18 PM   #73
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Well that axle the the one pieces came from blew up because somebody did a HORIBLE job at Lincoln locking it and there was shit floating around in it plus the pinion angle was way to high and it overheated and took a shit going down the road so no not because it is junk and that guy went to a 44 only because it is easier to find a 44 with 373 gears then a nt 20 with 373s
The reason there is probably so many broke axles is because of careless/stupid drivers
I'm going of facts and experience as well, it may not be all my experience but experience all the same
As far as weldingthe tubes and a truss on the 20 if u don't know how to weld find a friend that can and make your own truss fukc all this buying after market parts it's alot cheaper
Learn some fab skills
And yes I know of 2 jeeps that break front d44 u joints more then whenthey ran the d30 up front
There are so many variable that you can't use that as a comparison. Same tires? Same driveline? Same gearing? Same turning angle in the knuckles? Same brand u-joints? Same terrain?

Just going out on a limb here but I'm thinking there is a reason none of the pros are running D30's. Just a hunch mind you......
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Old October 12th, 2011, 07:22 PM   #74
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Same driveline,gears and tires
And yes I'm not saying at all that it's stronger then say a 60 I'm just saying that they seem to hold up to alot of abuse
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Old October 13th, 2011, 05:09 AM   #75
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Ok
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Old October 13th, 2011, 08:04 PM   #76
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found a dana 30 front end with disc brakes for 75 bucks. figured i'd buy it for the outers and i can get discs on mine for the time being. in wrambler guys defense i ran 35's on my 05 LJ that had open dana 30 front and limited slip 44 with 3.73 gears and wheeled the hell out of it in hawaii and never broke them. but that axle was alot newer than the ones under mine. but i have read a few other places that with all the money i'd sink into these i can get a pair of 44's and shorten them myself. im just going to keep parts hunting. if anyone sees anything of interest and can post up here like renegade did i'd greatly appreciate it.
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Old October 13th, 2011, 08:58 PM   #77
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I'd just run it till you break it, the 20 is going to spin an axle when u start beating on it if u don't go one piece tho
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Old October 14th, 2011, 02:03 PM   #78
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Oddly enough a 14 bolt will probably be cheaper to buy/build than a 44 and you can gain more clearance by using a 13 bolt kit so it won't hang down so far. Best part is other than fluid changes you can beat it bad and forget about breaking it

did any one read the caption for the pic

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does not create a concern for leakage if you don't fill it
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Old October 15th, 2011, 01:42 PM   #79
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wow nice. never noticed that lol
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Old October 16th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #80
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this weeks progress.

removed the rear drums. had to drill out the screws and beat the hell out of them to get them off

im assuming i need new shoes

also sanded down the underbody and put a layer of rustoleum rust reformer on it


see guys, this is why you wear safety glasses
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