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Old September 20th, 2011, 06:15 PM   #21
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got the trans out. the bolts came out easy but had to beat on the trans to get it to separate from the bel housing. tried getting the bell housing out and the same thing. they both seem like they're fused. bell housing is still in. gonna beat it with a rubber mallet this weekend any idea what this white powdery stuff is on the housing?





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Old September 20th, 2011, 07:10 PM   #22
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White stuff is corrision.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 08:55 PM   #23
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White stuff is corrision.
would that be why they seemed fused together?
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Old September 20th, 2011, 09:02 PM   #24
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yes, you may need to soak it with oil heat it and still beat the bell housing off. If you have a air hammer with a blunt bit vibrate around the dowl pins on the back of the motor and that will help shake the corrosion loose just be easy so you dont brake the aluminum housing
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Old September 20th, 2011, 09:40 PM   #25
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thisll be fun.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 09:48 PM   #26
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Let me know if you have a problem I can swing by and give you a hand if needed.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 10:02 PM   #27
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will do. not doing it until this weekend. it's at a friends in St clair shores but for free labor i can shuttle =]
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Old September 25th, 2011, 09:47 PM   #28
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school starts up again tomorrow for me and i need to save up money for this anyways. so not doing anthing for the next 10 weeks.
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Old October 1st, 2011, 02:30 PM   #29
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im starting to have second thoughts so i figured i'd run it past you guys.

the 2.5L only has 85hp and a max speed of near 73mph in the CJ7. im obviously going to regear to 4.88 gears when i put on the 35's but will i even be able to drive this thing on the freeway? (speed limit is 70 here) i paid 1k for this. haven't put hardly anything into it but even after i get it all set up the way i want i don't want a trailer queen. nor do i really wanna swap the engine and trans right off the bat. im just wondering if i should resale this and try to find one with the 4.2L or possibly a different jeep.
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Old October 1st, 2011, 08:17 PM   #30
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im starting to have second thoughts so i figured i'd run it past you guys.

the 2.5L only has 85hp and a max speed of near 73mph in the CJ7. im obviously going to regear to 4.88 gears when i put on the 35's but will i even be able to drive this thing on the freeway? (speed limit is 70 here) i paid 1k for this. haven't put hardly anything into it but even after i get it all set up the way i want i don't want a trailer queen. nor do i really wanna swap the engine and trans right off the bat. im just wondering if i should resale this and try to find one with the 4.2L or possibly a different jeep.

Remember 22 posts back,,,,,,

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Part it out now while you're ahead! CJ's got bad JuJu.

70mph + 4:88's = 3300RPM. For any amount of real 70 MPH distance driving on a regular basis a 2.5 will not live long with that setup. My oldest CJ has 4:88's/35's and 60MPH (2800 RPM) is about tops for cruising any real distances. And that's with a balanced V6 EFI engine pushing well over 200HP.

Find a rather cheap/plentiful 360 AMC & T176 to put in front of the 300 case, then some 4:27 gears. That will give you 70 MPH and stay together around 2800 RPM.

Short of buying a $20k+ Collins Bros. Jeep, most CJs on the market are pretty much 10 owner basket cases or WAY over priced.
Decide what your end goal is, get a good base vehicle for that goal, keep it, work toward the goal bit by bit.
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Old October 1st, 2011, 08:36 PM   #31
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Remember 22 posts back,,,,,,



70mph + 4:88's = 3300RPM. For any amount of real 70 MPH distance driving on a regular basis a 2.5 will not live long with that setup. My oldest CJ has 4:88's/35's and 60MPH (2800 RPM) is about tops for cruising any real distances. And that's with a balanced V6 EFI engine pushing well over 200HP.

Find a rather cheap/plentiful 360 AMC & T176 to put in front of the 300 case, then some 4:27 gears. That will give you 70 MPH and stay together around 2800 RPM.

Short of buying a $20k+ Collins Bros. Jeep, most CJs on the market are pretty much 10 owner basket cases or WAY over priced.
Decide what your end goal is, get a good base vehicle for that goal, keep it, work toward the goal bit by bit.
i want 35's i read abit more and some people are saying that with a weber carb on their 151 w/ 33's and they're better but im starting to agree with you. i just don't want the jeep to sit in the garage for 2 years before i even get to drive it.
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Old October 1st, 2011, 08:56 PM   #32
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like i said the biggest thing is i don't want this to be a trailer queen. it needs to drive to the trail, wheel like hell, and get me back home.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 02:38 PM   #33
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this weekends progress. like i said im not spending any money on it for the time being but figured i'd get this out of the way





front


rear


also went and got this from my late grandfathers garage. figured it'd be a big help this winter
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 03:29 PM   #34
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got the drums off of the front axle but the rear axle has 3 philips screws in each. i got 1 out of each side but the other 4 nearly disintegrated when i turned them with nearly no effort. so how do i get them out now?

driver side

passenger side


the videos are of me draining the trans and transfer case. wanted a video to show you guys the color of each

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...002_145634.mp4

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...002_150137.mp4
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 05:46 PM   #35
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Drums on the front? That's an earlier axle than 82. Disc brakes have been standard issue on CJ's since 79 and an option as early as 77. I'd check the axle build #'s to see what you're dealing with. Those automatic axle shaft breaker lockout hubs suck too. Welcome to CJ ownership.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 06:06 PM   #36
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Drums on the front? That's an earlier axle than 82. Disc brakes have been standard issue on CJ's since 79 and an option as early as 77. I'd check the axle build #'s to see what you're dealing with. Those automatic axle shaft breaker lockout hubs suck too. Welcome to CJ ownership.
where are the #s at? and yeah i was wondering why i still have drums. they're also the narrow track axles. i was guessing that i have an 82 body and an 80-81 everything else because of the sr4 trans. but if what you say is true then i have a mutt jeep.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 08:10 PM   #37
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where are the #s at? and yeah i was wondering why i still have drums. they're also the narrow track axles. i was guessing that i have an 82 body and an 80-81 everything else because of the sr4 trans. but if what you say is true then i have a mutt jeep.
  1. Build # is on the long axle tube
  2. What I say is true

Get a good pic of the drivers side front axle spring pad and I can narrow down the years for you. I'm guessing it's a 76-78.
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Old October 3rd, 2011, 03:59 PM   #38
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  1. Build # is on the long axle tube
  2. What I say is true

Get a good pic of the drivers side front axle spring pad and I can narrow down the years for you. I'm guessing it's a 76-78.
somebody also pointed out that i have a 6 bolt hub instead of a 5 bolt. supposed to be like that?
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Old October 3rd, 2011, 05:43 PM   #39
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they came as 5 and 6 bolt hubs 6 bolt hubs are better and you have warn lock outs so thats good too
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Old October 3rd, 2011, 05:52 PM   #40
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somebody also pointed out that i have a 6 bolt hub instead of a 5 bolt. supposed to be like that?
81 was a mixed year. Very early 81's were 6, late 81 up through 1986 were 5. My 81 has a 80 production date & had 6 bolt as OE. Based on the rest of your drive line looking like a 81 the hubs didn't look too out of place, but the drums just scream 1970's.
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