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Old August 27th, 2011, 10:57 PM   #1
RDK_YJ88
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Default Another slightly more than mild XJ build

Well, after building a couple xj's and a couple samurai's I've ended up back in a cherokee. This time I'm trying to keep it mild for now so I can enjoy it and do some wheelin'


Starting out with a 2000 Sport.

Current specs.

3" Zone Offroad AAL lift kit
33x12.50x15 KM1's
15x7 (more on that later) Summit Racing D window wheels
1.5" DOM steering with 3/4 Ruffstuff Hiem joints.
Extended the rear bump stops 2.5"
Extended the front bump stops 3"
Started building a Winch Bumper.
Trimmed fenders
No rubbing


Soon to come
Long arms
Winch
weld on beadlocks (hence the 7" wide wheels)
Rock sliders
Roof sliders
Flat(ish) belly skid
HP front dana 30 with Truss
OBA


I had the 3" lift and steering installed on the Jeep for quite some time rockin' some stock A/ts. I finally found a good deal on some 33" BFG KM1s from another member on here. Ordered my wheels from Summit Racing and had them the next day which was just in time for me to get the tires mounted on them, and get the front fenders trimmed enough so I could pull out of the driveway without rubbing After getting them installed on the Jeep I took it out for a little wheelin' trip to BigBChevy's house.








I had a blast over there, but after losing the rear fender flares and bumper corners I knew I had to trim the rear and extend the bump stops.

For the rear I took a piece of 2.5x2.5x3/8 square tubing and used it as a spacer between the unirail and factory bump stop. Sorry no pics of the spacer, but it no longer rubs, barely.





For the front I used some the same tubing and cut it 3" long and capped one end. Then welded it on the coil bucket on the axle end. Worked out pretty good but when at full stuff with the wheel turned to lock, it would rub on the infamous XJ Hump. Pic is at full bump.






I couldn't wait any longer, trying to find a HP Dana 30 so I just welded a Truss onto my LP Dana 30. Built it from 5 pieces of .25" plate and it is fully TIG welded on. Took me about 8 hours to weld the truss on, I don't ever want to truss a Dana 30 again I tried to keep the truss as low profile as possible, but only time will tell if I like it.



Also added Inner C gussets.




The Jeeps now torn apart in the garage getting some more "body work" done. Will post some finished pics later.

Last edited by RDK_YJ88; January 9th, 2013 at 04:10 PM.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 11:00 PM   #2
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Nice looking Jeep.
Why did you put the truss below the axle?
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Old August 27th, 2011, 11:03 PM   #3
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Nice looking Jeep.
Why did you put the truss below the axle?
Only because it was much easier. I didn't have time to build all new mounts on top. I've had it out to the Mounds on the rocks and trails and I never really noticed it. I've also noticed that it helps deflect any direct hits to the control arm mounts. I did manage to get hung up on it once, but it was right below the pig and I feel I would have gotten hung on with or with out it.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 11:04 PM   #4
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Let me guess, cutting the roof off of it?

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The Jeeps now torn apart in the garage getting some more "body work" done. Will post some finished pics later.
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Old August 27th, 2011, 11:05 PM   #5
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Let me guess, cutting the roof off of it?
I promise the roof will stay on this one. For now
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Old August 28th, 2011, 09:03 AM   #6
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Well, I decided to remove the Battery and intake "hump" from the inner fenders. I took the TNT customs route, but I built my own. Cost me about $30 so far for steel, bolts and paint. Still need to buy a new air filter.

So far I have finished the passenger side, just waiting for paint to dry so I can remount the battery and it will be done. I was able to remount the Fuse box/relay center, further back and rotated it 90*. Then I mounted the overflow reservoir in the stock location but turned it. I just used some self tappers to remount the Cruise Control Module to the vertical part of the inner fender (factory location). It turned out decent for only being able to bend it over the corner of my work bench.






I was able to reuse the stock battery tray with some modification and remount the Optima on an angle. This also allowed me to use the factory battery cables.



Fits great. Clears everything, even the hood.





Pics with fresh paint.






Now onto the driverside.
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Old August 28th, 2011, 09:11 AM   #7
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Looks good. Told you you didn't need my Jeep to build the inner fenders off of.
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Mine is just sloppy
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Old August 28th, 2011, 09:20 AM   #8
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Told you you didn't need my Jeep to build the inner fenders off of.
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Old August 28th, 2011, 05:26 PM   #9
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Finished up the driver side. I took a bunch of pictures but the SD card decided to not save any of them So you just get some finished pictures. I remounted the Computer to the new panel using the factory hardware. Also replaced the air box with a cheap-o filter from Autozone.






We've got clearance Clarence.



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Old August 29th, 2011, 08:34 AM   #10
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Looks good, but please stop taking money saving tips from Joe and use an actual hose clamp to hold your filter on instead of zip ties
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Old August 29th, 2011, 04:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Looks good, but please stop taking money saving tips from Joe and use an actual hose clamp to hold your filter on instead of zip ties
That was just so I could drive it around back and articulate the suspension for some pics.
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Old September 1st, 2011, 08:14 PM   #12
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Ordered up some parts from Summit Racing to rebuild the exhaust. My goal is to build it small, keep it up high, and keep it quiet.
1) Universal Resonator (14" long)



2) Universal Catalytic Converter (11.5" long)



3) Weld in 02 sensor bungs



If the cat. and reso. combined don't keep it quiet enough, i'll probably switch to a regular muffler.

Also started a T-case and Trans pan skid. Will post finished pics of those hopefully tomorrow.
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Looks good, but please stop taking money saving tips from Joe and use an actual hose clamp to hold your filter on instead of zip ties



did you check on a universal cat w/ the bung already in it? Or was it cheaper to buy them separate? i think the one i got from diversified was cheaper then them separate. mines short and shoved up but its loud as shit lol
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 07:10 PM   #14
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Cheapest converter I could find online. I don't recall seeing any with the bung already in it.

The converter was about $50 and the bung was like $5.
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Old September 2nd, 2011, 07:16 PM   #15
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ahh
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Old September 3rd, 2011, 12:46 PM   #16
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Built a simple and cheap T-case skid. For now it just bolts to the factory crossmember and the "frame rail". I will eventually be building a different cross member out of .25" plate, that the skid will bolt to in the same fashion. To bolt the skid to the "frame rail" I went to my local ACE Hardware and picked up a set of 3/8s GM body bolts. They have a pointed tip so I was able to just drill a slightly undersized hole and screw them in.

GM Body bolt





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Old September 3rd, 2011, 03:58 PM   #17
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Subscribed. Nice work.
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Old September 3rd, 2011, 04:01 PM   #18
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Subscribed. Nice work.
Thanks!
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Old September 5th, 2011, 09:39 PM   #19
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Did a little wheelin' today and tested out the new the skid plate. Worked very well.




More pics. here.

Mounds 9-5-11 Lots of pics - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
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Old September 29th, 2011, 06:13 PM   #20
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Garage is nearing the finish line so I ordered some parts from RuffStuff Specailties!






*Pics borrowed from www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
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