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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:17 PM   #1
trs80
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Default Cracked brake line, '92 Park Ave, need advice

I just finished refreshing the brakes on the in laws '92 Buick Park Ave and when doing so I found a pin hole leak. Its in the hard line for the drivers rear drum. I attached some pictures that show the leak and the two fittings that would subsequently have to been loosened.

Here is the leak. The pin hole leak is about two inches rear of the bracket.


This is the body side connection for said hard line. Forward of this is where the two lines split. Not sure its worth trying to loosen. That shizz is crusty.


Rear connection for the hard line. This one is not as crusty.


Misc. pic of drum setup.



*****


If I can remove the line, anyone know a place I can have one custom bent?

Should I just man up and replace all the hard lines?

What would you do?
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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:25 PM   #2
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Man up. Bend them by hand. Its not that bad.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ChevyRacer1981 View Post
Man up. Bend them by hand. Its not that bad.
I bought a tubing bender at Menards for about $10 that bends up some super clean brake lines.


There easy to bend.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:40 PM   #4
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More than likely you will have to replace more lines in the future. You have to custom bend the lines yourself. A good set of tube wrenches (or whatever they are called) work great along with some good penetrating oil. You can borrow the the tools to flare the ends of the lines from an auto parts store.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:45 PM   #5
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Bend them yourselves, start spraying those fittings with PB blaster or Kroil and you may be surprised how easy the will come out.

Or just cut them out and put all new in.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 07:47 PM   #6
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Don't waste your money on a tube kinker for 3/16 line, it is just as easy to bend by and and less frustrating. My tube bender works like crap on 3/16, not too bad on 1/4 and superb on 3/8, so I rarely ever use it.

Take the old line apart before you go to the parts store. That way you can bring it in and get the right length and you will know how much other crap is going to break along the way. Saves a second or third trip to the store.

How much further from the crusty junction to the next one that might be less rusty? Unless you are extremely careful to not twist the good line off while wrestling with the broken end, you will end up going to the next joint. By the look of that junction, replacing that as well might be a great idea, saves having to do it in a month or two when its brutally cold.

My advice, replace all questionable lines and hoses NOW to avoid a nasty salty, cold fix later.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 08:04 PM   #7
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What type of line is best? Galvanized, Stainless, Powder Coated?

Thinking something like this will get me started.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=756203
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Old September 21st, 2011, 08:11 PM   #8
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Try EZ Bend line. Its a nickle copper alloy, bends and flares like a dream, will never rust, and I've tried to kink it and couldn't. The downside is that it's more expensive. Advanced auto parts carries the line. It's very important to keep the proportioning valves (the two rusty looking cylinders that are inline) in the same direction, they are expensive so it'd be best to re-use them if possible. If penetrating oil doesn't work, try heating and cooling.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 10:44 PM   #9
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Rusty brake lines are not something you should overlook, unless you dont mind pressing the pedal down one day and having it go to the floor as you approach an intersection. Start from the master cylinder and run new lines to your wheel cylinders. Buy the coated lines, they bend easy enough by hand.
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Old September 21st, 2011, 11:02 PM   #10
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Duct tape it :D

No but really you should replace the lines from the master cylinder back - but if they're good like half way through you could get away with cutting & flaring.

When bending the tubing be careful not to kink it or it won't work. I'd suggest a bender because they're cheap and you wouldn't want to do all that work to get in it and find out that the damn thing needs to be replaced again.
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Old September 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM   #11
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For rusty brake line fittings like that, dont waste your time with open end wrenches or even with line wrenches, you'll probably just round the fitting out. Cut the line that you are going to replace right next to the fitting and use a box end wrench or socket, but also pre-soak it with a good penetrating oil first (PB Blaster).

X2 on replacing anything even somewhat questionable now, and on just bending it by hand. Try to remove the entire thing without destroying it, and using it as guide to bend the new line. If you take yur time and pay attention to details, its not that difficult to get it to fit right back in the stock clamps, in the same routeing, and line rightup with the next fitting.
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Old September 22nd, 2011, 10:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yota Bill View Post
For rusty brake line fittings like that, dont waste your time with open end wrenches or even with line wrenches, you'll probably just round the fitting out. Cut the line that you are going to replace right next to the fitting and use a box end wrench or socket, but also pre-soak it with a good penetrating oil first (PB Blaster).

X2 on replacing anything even somewhat questionable now, and on just bending it by hand. Try to remove the entire thing without destroying it, and using it as guide to bend the new line. If you take yur time and pay attention to details, its not that difficult to get it to fit right back in the stock clamps, in the same routeing, and line rightup with the next fitting.
What this guy said!
Rent or buy a double flaring tool
Get a tube cutter. Mini is perfect!
Debur the cut tube with tip of a knife or drill bit. Make sure not to get shavinga into the tube!
Practice making flares on some scrap tubing before you do one you bent up.
Practice making bends. I usually using something round to bend the tube around.
If your flare looks identical to the ones on the lines you will be buying you did it right!
If your flare looks like shit it will leak. Don't think cranking on the fitting is going to stop it from leaking!!l
Flare must be a double flare!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do Not forget to slide on the fitting before you flare the tube!
If you have a sharp bend with a fitting leave that portion straight till you flare on a fitting. Then bend the short bend!
Use line wrenches as much as possible when tightening or loosening up the new fittings!!!

OH and do this before it gets too cold. Doing brake lines in the winter is the suck!

Last edited by Immortal; September 22nd, 2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old September 22nd, 2011, 11:38 PM   #13
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Another tool I use on line's besides the line wrench's is the Vise Grip's made for bolts
http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-t...cking-wrenches

The smallest size works great for getting a really good bite on an old line fitting and not rounding it off.
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Old September 26th, 2011, 05:23 PM   #14
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hopfully u dont have to mess with any of the lines at the abs pump those cars a nightmare to change the lines. but anyway cut the crusty side off heat up with torch 15m 6 point socket come right off. ive work on alot of these cars
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