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Old August 19th, 2011, 12:56 AM   #1
deerebowtie
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Old August 22nd, 2011, 08:08 AM   #2
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Sounds like a cool build
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Old August 25th, 2011, 09:11 PM   #3
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I think they look like the Dick Cepic DC-1. More commonly seen with black highlights. Could be wrong though.
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Old September 3rd, 2011, 09:40 AM   #4
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my friend has the same rims, i love them but dont know what they are. There not dc1s and have no marking we both would like to know our selfs
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Old September 15th, 2011, 02:30 AM   #5
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well, since I've got H1's now, how about some bling centers?

found these through diy4x's photobucket, who makes em, or are the custom?
That looks like it is just a flat center with triangle gussets welded in to create a design.

Flat centers - http://www.cmperformancemachine.com/...cat=252&page=1

If you give C&M a call he could probably cut you a set that have more cut-outs and would be closer to the picture you found. This is what he sells on his site, he is a great guy and a MI business.
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Old September 15th, 2011, 10:16 AM   #6
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When are the stacks going on?
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Old September 18th, 2011, 05:31 PM   #7
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watch using the grinder. those are magnesium. the grinding dust can catch on fire very easily. a buddy almost burnt his barn down cutting down his runflats. id stick with the sawzall or borrow a porta band saw.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 02:08 PM   #8
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watch using the grinder. those are magnesium. the grinding dust can catch on fire very easily. a buddy almost burnt his barn down cutting down his runflats. id stick with the sawzall or borrow a porta band saw.

if magnesium does start on fire, don't try to put it out with water.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 02:49 PM   #9
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found these through diy4x's photobucket, who makes em, or are the custom?

That seems like a lot of extra weight/material over C&M's stamped centers.
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Old September 20th, 2011, 05:04 PM   #10
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That seems like a lot of extra weight/material over C&M's stamped centers.
Yea but sure looks cool
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Old September 22nd, 2011, 11:23 PM   #11
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where/who did u get ur SAS kit from??
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Old September 23rd, 2011, 07:57 AM   #12
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The hummer runflats suck a fat one without a belt sander and bandsaw, for anyone else reading this.
Thats why most people run the PVC inserts instead.

Not sure what your time and grinder wheels is worth to you, but you can get them for like 50 bucks each.
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Old September 23rd, 2011, 09:37 AM   #13
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After I figured out a system, it only takes about 30-40 minutes per tire (pair of runflats). I don't make 50$ an hour, so I'm fine doing it this way Mike.
I figure you high paid IT guys would be making more than that...
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Old October 5th, 2011, 01:21 PM   #14
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soo, down to the final stretch.

parts I need:
60 high steer arms
brake lines
diff covers
pinion shims for the 60
eldorado calipers
clutch pedal assembly
fuel pressure regulator.


questions:
--------------
What year eldorado calipers do I need to retain my e-brake?

What's a good cheapish fuel pressure regulator to get the vortec pump down to tbi pressures, and how do I deal with having 2 return lines (one from pump, one from TBI unit)?
Why not just drop tank and instll a tbi pump? Be about same price and 1 less thing to brake or go wrong.

Do you really need an e-brake? Only reason I bring up, when I research for my disc brakes on my 14 bolt, I found the e-brakes on these tend to go bad. I went with Monte Carlo front calipers. Same mounting as caddy calipers wih bigger pistons. If you are set on an e-brake you will need it them off a early to mid 80's caddy. The Monte calipers are about 20 bucks each vs the 80 each for caddy.

Very nice build. Need to finish up my brackets for the sas on my hoe.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 01:21 PM   #15
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look'n good! have you ever thought of putting a valve in the brake line ran into the cab? that you could mash the pedal and lock it to act as a parking brake? kinda like a cutting brake.
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Old October 9th, 2011, 08:45 PM   #16
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yeah I'm looking into using the parking break to tie in a line lock up under the dash.


Tim, I want a nv4500/dodge 205. pm me what body parts I'm going to have to sell to finance this.
Look for a "Park Lock" mechanical lock, not an electric solenoid operated drag racing type line lock. The electric units will work, but will heat up quick when used as a parking brake.
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Old October 19th, 2011, 05:41 AM   #17
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H1's are very heavy. Cheap, easy to work with, but very heavy. I'll still run mine, but if the right opportunity comes along I'll get off them and go with a stout aluminum rim and inner air locks....or if the really right opportunity comes along, some Hutchinson two-piece wheels.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 05:37 AM   #18
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Wtf?
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Old October 26th, 2011, 07:08 AM   #19
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please delete. this thread is trash now.


I dont think the mods will remove threads.

But I think they should restore your posts.
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Old October 26th, 2011, 07:12 AM   #20
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did someone's panties get all bunched up?
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