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Old July 12th, 2011, 08:21 PM   #41
cobra96svt570
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Originally Posted by bbrancheau View Post
did a mild build 306 but sprung for the trickflow heads and a x 303 cam victor jr nothing fancy in a ranger and ran 11.9 best and stedy 12.2. all the money went to tubbing it. 302 is a good little motor imo
Im with ya, I like the 302. Id take a 302 built up slightly with EFI and a good tuner like moates quarter horse, and a 60-1 turbo. And itll run 10's all day long.
But now I changed over to the 4.6 modualr motors, and they dont have the low end like the 302's or pushrods, but man they love to scream with boost.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 08:39 PM   #42
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My fingures felt like typing, so Ill post this if you go with EFI, these are some tuners I have used with good outcome.

If your gonna go EFI, and also do some engine work, your gonna need a tuner.
There are a couple good EFI tuners with a fairly easy learning curve. One of The easiest is probally the Anderson PMS.

The PMS which is a piggyback tie-in ecu that is capable of being swicthed to standalone, And alos has unlimeted capabilitys and is easy to use with a handheld control.
Check out my videos on it:http://www.youtube.com/cobra96svt570#p/u/7/iLvKdLGbkU0 or www.andersonfordmotorsport.com

Another good tuner is the Tweecer R/T which is a chip that is installed into your ecu, then connects by cable to your laptop, were you can tune it with a special software. You can adjust any parimeter in the ecu from timing to fuel, shift points, you name it. But has a steeper learning curve. You can download the software and check it out. www.tweecer.com

There is another simalar type setup that involes a chip, and does all the same stuff but is said to be even better. Its called the moates-quartehorse. Bothe of these are live chips, which means you can make adjustments on the fly, unlike a burnt chip. They also can have a switch with from 3-5 settings with all diff' tunes you can change on the fly.

A popular software for the Moates-quarterhorse is: http://eecanalyzer.net/ This software can be used with both the tweecer and the quarterhorse.
Another option, is the full standalone well know as the Megasquirt. Check them out at DIYautotune.com or google megasquirt.
There are many more options out there for the ford EECV, but they are the most know for there price, and options.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 10:29 PM   #43
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351 swaps are easy , there tall thow so expect to put a cowl hood on , you will need fox 302 to 351 swap headers and a new oil pan to clear everything , the gt40p heads you have will probably sufocate the 351 thow unless you get alot of port work done and bigger valves but the cost of doing that you could probably find a nice set of used aluminum heads , you will need a new distributor to 302s and 351s are not the same dizzy , also make sure you get a cam for it to wake it up or else you will be disappointed with the truck cam that's probably in it
Yer honor, everything that guy said is bullshit!

I am going to repeat what 3/4 of the mustang sites will say. The GT40P heads are similar to the E7 heads except the bigger valves on the GT40P heads and shitty placed spark plug. You will need to purchase Specific headers for this head, if you go with factory or generic, you will not to get some plugs in or out and will not be able to get your plug wires on.

The 351w is about 1" taller than a 302 so to combat that, most guys use the convertible motor mounts. It will drop the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. It is true you will need a new oil pan for the car, summit and jegs have them.

As far as going to 5 lug. You can either get GT spindles and 94/95 rotors or go with a Lincoln Mark VII setup. The rear conversion and be done with either a SN 95 axle, Mark VII axle, or using the driver side axle from two RBV (ranger based vehicles) explorers being your most plentiful and most useful. You can upgrade your carrier to posi and get a 31 spline axle vs the stock 28. The disc brake set up will also come from the Explorer.

Check out MidwestMustangAssociation.com, its a group based in WI, but we will get you the answers you need.
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 08:33 AM   #44
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If you are stuck with E7 or the gt40p heads, you might a well stick with the 302. A good cylinder head is everything on a 302/351. My old 88 GT went 12.0@114 on the motor, and 10.9@128 with 8 psi. TFS heads by Modern Cylinder Head, E cam, TFS intake.


Damn you, you make me miss my Mustangs!

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Old July 23rd, 2011, 08:46 AM   #45
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i want one agian!
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(mr.green)So you are calling CC a liar?? Not a nice way to treat your bitch.
tube bending and gear installs pm me for info! gears installed for $150 and up per axle.
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 09:07 AM   #46
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If you can get a hold of citocoupe on here he can help with any questions and or parts or pieces you may need. He has probably more hands on fox body mustang experience than anyone I know.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:01 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never_Evil View Post
Yer honor, everything that guy said is bullshit!

I am going to repeat what 3/4 of the mustang sites will say. The GT40P heads are similar to the E7 heads except the bigger valves on the GT40P heads and shitty placed spark plug. You will need to purchase Specific headers for this head, if you go with factory or generic, you will not to get some plugs in or out and will not be able to get your plug wires on.

The 351w is about 1" taller than a 302 so to combat that, most guys use the convertible motor mounts. It will drop the engine about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. It is true you will need a new oil pan for the car, summit and jegs have them.

As far as going to 5 lug. You can either get GT spindles and 94/95 rotors or go with a Lincoln Mark VII setup. The rear conversion and be done with either a SN 95 axle, Mark VII axle, or using the driver side axle from two RBV (ranger based vehicles) explorers being your most plentiful and most useful. You can upgrade your carrier to posi and get a 31 spline axle vs the stock 28. The disc brake set up will also come from the Explorer.

Check out MidwestMustangAssociation.com, its a group based in WI, but we will get you the answers you need.


Good post. I went with the Lincoln front setup and it worked great. I'm sure your axle is an 7.5" anyway so you may as well go get an 8.8" axle and I'm pretty sure the Lincoln is a bolt in. I dont know for sure because I went with a 9".

One thing I didn't see mentioned is the addition of sub frame connecters. Definately do it. The unibodies on these cars will twist and crack easily.

Good to see some other Mustang people here.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 02:35 PM   #48
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It does have an 8,8 and already has the subframe connectors.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 04:20 PM   #49
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It does have an 8,8 and already has the subframe connectors.
yea, they been using the same rear end setup pretty much from 79-95 even to 98.
If you look for rear control arms, it lists 79-95/98.(besides amount of splines,lugs,posi or non posi,sway bar dia., disc or drum, etc etc.) But The common ford 4 link 8.8 is and awsome setup. The 8.8 is a real strong rear, I dont know what they hold up to hp and torque wise, but I know guys running up to 6oohp with moser axles and a factory ford racing posi out of cobras with good name brand gear oils.

Like the other said, there are lots of swaps you can do, you can get and explore rear, sn95 rear, lincol rear, etc. etc., there all basic 8.8 4 link setups. As for the front 5- lug you can use sn-95 parts, or lincoln parts. The 01-03 cobra lower control arms are designed diff' then previous year cobras and allow more clock to clock turning, alot of drifters swap them in.

I was running bout 450 with stock cobra rear & 4.10's. the only tihng that broke was the spiders, the posi cluthces wore thin,(to many drifts and burnouts plus age) and the spiders get side to side play. After some new clutches it was good to go.
Subframe connectors are a day and nite diff'. My cobra handled like a UPS TRUCK! before I did the sub-conectors and eibeich lowering springs. After that all my freinds called it the county nascar.

Last edited by cobra96svt570; August 16th, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 04:41 PM   #50
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A great upgrade for the 8.8 is the C clip eliminaters. They'll give you piece of mind just knowing your not going to spit an axle out the side.

I'll throw some pics of my buildup soon. It's a 85GT mini tubbed, skinnykid cage, 3/16" boxed torgue boxes, through floor frames with waterfall tie ins, tubular front K etc. 540" big block with PA SuperComp C4 TB. Lots of small body mods that only Mustang fans would notice. Engine is at the dyno shop now and I should have it ready to go in a couple weeks. Getting anxious.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 08:45 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra96svt570 View Post
yea, they been using the same rear end setup pretty much from 79-95 even to 98.
If you look for rear control arms, it lists 79-95/98.(besides amount of splines,lugs,posi or non posi,sway bar dia., disc or drum, etc etc.) But The common ford 4 link 8.8 is and awsome setup. The 8.8 is a real strong rear, I dont know what they hold up to hp and torque wise, but I know guys running up to 6oohp with moser axles and a factory ford racing posi out of cobras with good name brand gear oils.

Like the other said, there are lots of swaps you can do, you can get and explore rear, sn95 rear, lincol rear, etc. etc., there all basic 8.8 4 link setups. As for the front 5- lug you can use sn-95 parts, or lincoln parts. The 01-03 cobra lower control arms are designed diff' then previous year cobras and allow more clock to clock turning, alot of drifters swap them in.

I was running bout 450 with stock cobra rear & 4.10's. the only tihng that broke was the spiders, the posi cluthces wore thin,(to many drifts and burnouts plus age) and the spiders get side to side play. After some new clutches it was good to go.
Subframe connectors are a day and nite diff'. My cobra handled like a UPS TRUCK! before I did the sub-conectors and eibeich lowering springs. After that all my freinds called it the county nascar.
I have seen them 7s with the right parts
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Old August 16th, 2011, 09:01 PM   #52
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Carefull when buying K member and headers. Make sure they will fit with each other.
I learned the hard way
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Old August 16th, 2011, 09:02 PM   #53
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It does have an 8,8 and already has the subframe connectors.
???
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