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Old July 6th, 2011, 10:55 AM   #21
1x1_Speed_Craig
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Next on the docket...a 2" "accessory" receiver on the rear to carry a hitch-mounted bicycle rack. I'll also be adding quick-mount bicycle racks to the bed side rails. My goal is to eventually be able to securely carry 6-8 bikes with plenty of additional room for storage/gear.

Craig
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Old July 9th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #22
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Now with 2" rear receiver hitch. I may gusset it a little, but there really won't be any substantial weight on the rear. I hate overhead welding with the MIG...what a PITA.

Craig





The next project will be making quick-mount bases for the bicycle racks sitting on the side rails. The soon-to-be bases will drop into the stake pockets.

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Old July 10th, 2011, 08:59 PM   #23
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Makes me want to make a trailer for my jeep, but the hitch looks good for what your doing with it, I doubt it needs any further reinforcement.
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Old July 11th, 2011, 02:41 PM   #24
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What is this trailer rated for before you removed the stock axle? I'm looking at buying one of these trailers for hauling firewood but I wonder if it would be cheaper to just build a small custom trailer instead.
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Old July 11th, 2011, 02:51 PM   #25
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What is this trailer rated for before you removed the stock axle? I'm looking at buying one of these trailers for hauling firewood but I wonder if it would be cheaper to just build a small custom trailer instead.
I'd have to look at the tags on the trailer, or you could just do a Google search and probably turn up the info. It's a 3/4-ton trailer. I was going to build one from scratch, but this gave me a much better basis for the project. I'm very happy I went this route instead.

Rule of Thumb: It's never "much cheaper" regardless of which option you choose. Oh, and it always takes 3-4x as long as you plan.

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Old July 11th, 2011, 07:08 PM   #26
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How much does that trailer weigh, empty?
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Old July 11th, 2011, 07:20 PM   #27
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Nice build. I haven't been a member but signed up to comment. I just bought two of these trailers from govliquidations.com they are great, way over built and heavy duty. Stock ratings say they can haul 1,500 lbs, offroad at 20mph, on highway ratings are quite a bit higher and the military really overbuilt them. I tow mine behind a fourdoor bronco conversion built on a f-350 frame so the eight lug axle suites me fine. If you are looking for info the guys at Steel sodiers have a lot of it, a little tough on people who ask for info that is in the manuals, but will still help. Did your trailer come with a rear landing leg? Mine did not I am working on that issue next. Something to keep trailer from tipping back when unhooked. It looks like your trailer is actually an A2 with a A3 installed under it. A2s should have had a straight axle and tires unde the fenders, also bed width between fenders was 45". A3s were built to tow behind hummers and had the wider axle like yours; the wheel wells were smaller and the measurement between was over 4 ft. Also the taillights were built into beds and the tailgates were different. One of the trailers I bought was the same as yours. What did you do with the jack? I'm looking for one as one of my trailers came with just a leg no Jack. I kept the trailer wiring and just replaced the plug. My wiring was in pretty good shape. I also wanted to add trailer lights but not wanting to buy additional lights. The bottom two bulbs in your lights are for blackout lights, I took the three wires that used to run to these and attatched them to the reverse terminal in the plug. In the light I replaced the blackout bulbs with regular 12v bulbs and in the lens with a small screw driver popped out the covers which leave a clear lense exposed. the openings are a little small and not sure if running extra bulbs on that circuit coud hurt the trailer wiring on my truck may switch to Leds to be sure. Eventually will add running lights too, was thinking of about the same thing you did, like how it looks so that is probably the direction I'll continue. I want to use the trailer mainly for utility so the pintle is ok, expetially since it'll see some offroad use and a pintle is a lot easier to unhook if you get crossed up, a bit noisy, expetially with surge brakes behind it. Will live with it for now, but only planning to use it for utility and short trips. There is a way to pull the bolts holding the tongue and box together and replace them with pins and make the trailer dump. You also have to add a piece of flex in the brake line if you still have them, and protect the taillights as they will be the first point of contact, but handy to make the bed tip to the ground if you want to haul an ATV or somthing. This function is also way better if you still have some sort of brakes. Just set brakes on trailer and backup a bit and bed tips to ground. There is an atricle on the steel soldiers web site about mods.

Thought I'd share what I've learned so far with these trailers, keep the updates coming. Do you have any info on the junction box you used for wiring? Looks a lot better then anything I have seen before. Also let me know if you wanna sell the old Jack, best to contact me through email. I think you can do that through this site, don't really wanna post address here:)

Again, really nice work.
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Old July 11th, 2011, 07:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
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How much does that trailer weigh, empty?
I think they are between 1500 and 1800 stock depending on which axle and if the bows and tarp are on. minus the stock axle and just the bed I bet he is well under the 1500 number though
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Old July 11th, 2011, 08:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn View Post
How much does that trailer weigh, empty?
Hey Shawn - the weight with the sides/bows/top (but before the tongue box and spare tire) is 1240 lbs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AK Westphal View Post
Nice build. I haven't been a member but signed up to comment. I just bought two of these trailers from govliquidations.com they are great, way over built and heavy duty. Stock ratings say they can haul 1,500 lbs, offroad at 20mph, on highway ratings are quite a bit higher and the military really overbuilt them. I tow mine behind a fourdoor bronco conversion built on a f-350 frame so the eight lug axle suites me fine. If you are looking for info the guys at Steel sodiers have a lot of it, a little tough on people who ask for info that is in the manuals, but will still help. Did your trailer come with a rear landing leg? Mine did not I am working on that issue next. Something to keep trailer from tipping back when unhooked. It looks like your trailer is actually an A2 with a A3 installed under it. A2s should have had a straight axle and tires unde the fenders, also bed width between fenders was 45". A3s were built to tow behind hummers and had the wider axle like yours; the wheel wells were smaller and the measurement between was over 4 ft. Also the taillights were built into beds and the tailgates were different. One of the trailers I bought was the same as yours. What did you do with the jack? I'm looking for one as one of my trailers came with just a leg no Jack. I kept the trailer wiring and just replaced the plug. My wiring was in pretty good shape. I also wanted to add trailer lights but not wanting to buy additional lights. The bottom two bulbs in your lights are for blackout lights, I took the three wires that used to run to these and attatched them to the reverse terminal in the plug. In the light I replaced the blackout bulbs with regular 12v bulbs and in the lens with a small screw driver popped out the covers which leave a clear lense exposed. the openings are a little small and not sure if running extra bulbs on that circuit coud hurt the trailer wiring on my truck may switch to Leds to be sure. Eventually will add running lights too, was thinking of about the same thing you did, like how it looks so that is probably the direction I'll continue. I want to use the trailer mainly for utility so the pintle is ok, expetially since it'll see some offroad use and a pintle is a lot easier to unhook if you get crossed up, a bit noisy, expetially with surge brakes behind it. Will live with it for now, but only planning to use it for utility and short trips. There is a way to pull the bolts holding the tongue and box together and replace them with pins and make the trailer dump. You also have to add a piece of flex in the brake line if you still have them, and protect the taillights as they will be the first point of contact, but handy to make the bed tip to the ground if you want to haul an ATV or somthing. This function is also way better if you still have some sort of brakes. Just set brakes on trailer and backup a bit and bed tips to ground. There is an atricle on the steel soldiers web site about mods.

Thought I'd share what I've learned so far with these trailers, keep the updates coming. Do you have any info on the junction box you used for wiring? Looks a lot better then anything I have seen before. Also let me know if you wanna sell the old Jack, best to contact me through email. I think you can do that through this site, don't really wanna post address here:)

Again, really nice work.
Hi AK Westphal. Thanks for the added info, and the compliment. Much appreciated. Mine is definitely an M101-A3...it's clearly stated on the military plate on the bed. Manufacture date was 03-1993.

Mine did come with a rear stabilizer jack. It wasn't originally on this trailer, but the seller threw it in. I just had to drill holes to mount it. I'm going to relocate it off-center since adding the rear receiver.

I sold the front jack/landing gear shortly after pulling it (sorry).

Having pulled an M-416 with a pintle/lunette, and subsequently this trailer, it's way too loud & clunky for my taste. I absolutely love the Max Coupler. After using it for a while, I wouldn't want anything but.

Craig
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Old July 11th, 2011, 09:52 PM   #30
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So my trailer with the high clearance axle manufactured same date and identical says it is an A2, what I've been warned is that a lot of data plates got swapped around, not that it matters if the trailer has the features you want. I didn't notice the landing leg in the pictures of the hitch that's why I was wondering. Mine didn't come with that feature. The A3's were actually rated at one ton instead of 3/4 they have a 4" thick frame and heavier leaves, adds a bit of weight. So how do you disconnect and hook up the hitch you are using. maybe i missed that part. Pintle is loud and clunky, but I'm running a 460 with a gutted exhaust thanks to the previous owner and 35" mud tires, don't hear much on the highway:)

Do you know what the details on your trailer junction box are? I like the trailer plug wiring solution.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 06:51 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK Westphal View Post
So my trailer with the high clearance axle manufactured same date and identical says it is an A2, what I've been warned is that a lot of data plates got swapped around, not that it matters if the trailer has the features you want. I didn't notice the landing leg in the pictures of the hitch that's why I was wondering. Mine didn't come with that feature. The A3's were actually rated at one ton instead of 3/4 they have a 4" thick frame and heavier leaves, adds a bit of weight. So how do you disconnect and hook up the hitch you are using. maybe i missed that part. Pintle is loud and clunky, but I'm running a 460 with a gutted exhaust thanks to the previous owner and 35" mud tires, don't hear much on the highway:)

Do you know what the details on your trailer junction box are? I like the trailer plug wiring solution.
Sorry about forgetting to mention the electrical junction box. I got it from adventuretrailers.com. Etrailer.com (where I've ordered several items, and highly recommend them) has similar units.

The hitch is simply a matter of pulling the hitch pin at either the trailer or the vehicle, jacking the tongue up a bit to take off the load, and rolling it backward. It's very simple. You can also pull the pin at the coupler bushing, but I typically pull it at the vehicle. Your comment about the loud 460 and 35" tires has me doing this, BTW -->

Regarding the whole A3 vs. A2 thing, my trailer has the 4" frame rails, had the adjustable jack (not a fixed landing leg), has the inner-bed channel supports on the back side of the parachute drop connection points (U-bolts), etc. I'm certain it's an A3.

PM me if you have other questions/input. I'm very happy with my trailer, and wish you luck with building up yours.

Craig
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Old July 14th, 2011, 12:13 AM   #32
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So had to go look at my trailers againg today. First one is an A2 for sure, second now I'm not sure. Tag on the box that is identical to yours says A2 and the frame actually says it's a 116A3. I'll have to check the frame size when I have a minute. The 116 was same trailer frame minus box. Wierd thing is the serial numbers match. Any way doesn't matter fits the need I have:)
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Old July 31st, 2011, 06:33 PM   #33
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Small progress this weekend...

I made some stake pocket mounts for some bicycle carriers I've had for 12+ years. The carriers are designed to carry either a single or tandem bicycle. For the stake pocket mounts, I started with 2" x 2" x 1/8" square tube, then trimmed them down to 2" x 1 3/8" C-channel to fit in the stake pockets, and welded a piece of 3/16" plate to the top. I drilled/tapped a couple holes in the side to bolt them to the trailer. It's simple, quick to remove, and functional.

I'll be building a matching one for the other side, then will paint them both.

Craig



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Old October 9th, 2013, 08:15 PM   #34
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I have decided to sell this trailer, as I sold my Jeep about a year ago, and need a smaller/lighter trailer to pull behind my Honda. I haven't figured out a price yet, but am interested in cash offers or potentially trades...a rust-free Jeep Cherokee project for my daughter, a good-running motorcycle (base for a bobber/rat rod project), or ??? I'll officially list it for sale after determining an asking price.

Shoot me a PM if anyone is interested in the trailer. It's located just north of Grand Rapids, Michigan.

Thanks,
Craig
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Old October 19th, 2013, 05:53 AM   #35
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http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/bar/4138378680.html







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Old May 22nd, 2014, 06:40 PM   #36
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Default Need those wheel spacers

Craig,

Hope you are still on the forum!

Do you recall where you got those wheel spacers?

I picked up a m101a3 trailer and doing the axle swap to go with a 5x5 lug pattern to fit my 2012 JK. Looking to run the Jeep factory rims on the trailer for now and need to space out past the trailer dust caps.

Any assistance would be great!!
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Old May 23rd, 2014, 01:41 PM   #37
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Craig,

Hope you are still on the forum!

Do you recall where you got those wheel spacers?

I picked up a m101a3 trailer and doing the axle swap to go with a 5x5 lug pattern to fit my 2012 JK. Looking to run the Jeep factory rims on the trailer for now and need to space out past the trailer dust caps.

Any assistance would be great!!
You know, I don't recall where I got the spacers from. IIRC, someone over on expeditionportal.com had recommended the place. You may want to take a look there. I go by the same username everywhere online.

Good luck! They're great trailers!

Craig
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